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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 165

post #2461 of 37438
I mean, I get it. It's an internet forum in real time so thoughts will fly around left and right. I'm not saying anyone did a bad job - sorry if it came off that way.

But I cannot imagine that this type of loose structure is really helping the people who want help. They're bouncing around like ping pong balls. I know I wouldn't absorb info too well this way.

It should/could be more like ...

Day 1: On this day we will talk about dress shoes, and nothing else. What features are good. What features to be avoided. How many types of shoes a man should own and for which occasions he would wear each.

Day 2: On this day we cover ties - the 5 we think all men in a professional office should own. Then the ties we like for weddings, for fun, for more casual outfits, and so on ...

Just my two cents, and my version of throwing shit against the wall!

Clag's comment about Koreans and being textbook got me thinking this way... it would be like a well structured class.
post #2462 of 37438
Thread Starter 

I guess I was sort of hands off about it. I do feel a bit of responsibility for this thread. But I thought that was weird I did, so I didn't do much. I have no problem doing more if folks don't mind. I'd definitely prefer this to have a little more direction.

 

Jacket length I'm sure doesn't need much discussing. It needs to cover your ass. Plain and simple. It is the most direct route to finding out what you appropriate jacket length is. At least in terms of it being too short (a more common problem I imagine). As far as longer jackets, I doubt I'd want anything going more than an inch below where my ass ended, but at that point, I'd also say that total height and arm length should be accounted for.

 

Saying that a person who is 5'10 needs a jacket XXcm long is a bit silly to me--our torsos are all different lengths, as are our asses.

 

So if someone has a shoe problem, that might be a better starting point to right the direction of the thread (not that it was ever wrong, mind you)

post #2463 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Noodles definitely should not bespeak anything at this point. He doesn't even know what he wants (or if he does, he has so far been unable to articulate it).

This. The last part is maybe the most important--if you can't describe what you want, it's going to be tough unless it's 1) an excellent tailor, 2) you like their house style, and 3) you can trust them to make all the choices for you.

Would definitely stick with OTR until you really know what you want.
post #2464 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

When I go based off of my hands, I can wear the 31" jacket and still curl my fingers under the hem, but it's because I have longer arms. The 30" jacket simply looks much more proportinate to my eye.

 

What say the council about this method for determining jacket length?

This is because the two rules are giving you conflicting advice and it's a case in point of why a full pic is a good idea (can you post both), and why I dislike invocation of one rule as if that determines the right answer.

 

The first rule is trying to balance relative to height while the second is trying to balance relative to arm length. Neither deal with cases where your torso and leg are not balanced in length. That's why the rules are only first approximations. If you care you have to look at all the factors: height, torso length, arm length, body shape, etc.

 

I agree with Clags that covering your ass is a starting point, and for most men of regular proportions, that will probably work and you'll hit the sweet post >50% of the time. Still, I'd think it valuable to post your two pics, if you don't mind.

 

The part I bolded is probably the most important point however, because I think you'll get in a range where there's going to be a spread regarding the cognoscenti about whether it is too long and too short. We are talking about an inch (which can matter, of course).

post #2465 of 37438
post #2466 of 37438

BTW, there was a thread I started on articulating a principle for length where Doc, Alex (a Tailor) and Despos (via PM) weighed in. This was the final product:

 

Final Version: cover your ass leaving as long of a leg line as possible without looking like your on stilts, but giving enough weight to the torso without elongating it.

 

I think the Tailor's were happy with it in terms of articulating what they do mainly by eye as expert tailors. The eye part is important, of course.

post #2467 of 37438
Thread Starter 

The Brooks Brothers looks a bit more modern (higher gorges). But they have different shoulder measurements. I know it seems like .75 an inch isn't much split between two shoulders, but it can make a difference. At least it does on me. JR, how much have you purchased without buying a navy blazer? Because I'm willing to bet that the money adds up to an amount that could have purchased you a handsome blazer new and you wouldn't have had to worry with all this ebaying...just saying....(as someone who once briefly tried to build an odd jacket wardrobe via eBay)*

 

 

More on jacket length: I think that if the choice is between not covering you ass and but being proportionate everywhere else and covering you ass and being a bit out of proportion elsewhere, the lesser of the two evils is always covering your ass. The debate really only starts beyond that point.

 


*The two survivors of that time period:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

post #2468 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

about whether it is too long and too short. We are talking about an inch (which can matter, of course).

There's no way there is a joke to be made here. Nope, can't think of a single one!
post #2469 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

This is because the two rules are giving you conflicting advice and it's a case in point of why a full pic is a good idea (can you post both), and why I dislike invocation of one rule as if that determines the right answer.

 

The first rule is trying to balance relative to height while the second is trying to balance relative to arm length. Neither deal with cases where your torso and leg are not balanced in length. That's why the rules are only first approximations. If you care you have to look at all the factors: height, torso length, arm length, body shape, etc.

 

I agree with Clags that covering your ass is a starting point, and for most men of regular proportions, that will probably work and you'll hit the sweet post >50% of the time. Still, I'd think it valuable to post your two pics, if you don't mind.

 

The part I bolded is probably the most important point however, because I think you'll get in a range where there's going to be a spread regarding the cognoscenti about whether it is too long and too short. We are talking about an inch (which can matter, of course).

 

I will take pics hopefully when I get home with each jacket on.

 

 

I'm in the market for the exact same sort of thing right now, and I am having a hard time finding something. I will say that one of my criteria is patch pockets, so I would not get either of those ones. If you aren't as worried about that then either of those would probably be fine. I prefer the first.

post #2470 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

The Brooks Brothers looks a bit more modern (higher gorges). But they have different shoulder measurements. I know it seems like .75 an inch isn't much split between two shoulders, but it can make a difference. At least it does on me. JR, how much have you purchased without buying a navy blazer? Because I'm willing to bet that the money adds up to an amount that could have purchased you a handsome blazer new and you wouldn't have had to worry with all this ebaying...just saying....(as someone who once briefly tried to build an odd jacket wardrobe via eBay)*

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 

I'm not against new by any means I just don't know where to look. 

post #2471 of 37438
Thread Starter 

I don't understand people who don't like patch pockets on an odd jacket. In part, I like solids a lot, so without a pattern to distinguish it from a suit jacket, patch pockets are all but a necessity.

 

Any reason why y'all haven't gotten this:

http://apac.suitsupply.com/en/jackets/havana-navy-plain/C540E.html?start=21&cgid=Jackets

 

Howard Yount has some options, including this nice suit with a jacket that could easily function as a blazer ($699)

 

 

Summer blazers:

 

post #2472 of 37438
Epaulet MTO will give you a patch pocket option. Right now it's limited to Southwick but they're rolling out Samuelsohn MTO this year, too.
post #2473 of 37438
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

I don't understand people who don't like patch pockets on an odd jacket. In part, I like solids a lot, so without a pattern to distinguish it from a suit jacket, patch pockets are all but a necessity.

 

Any reason why y'all haven't gotten this:

http://apac.suitsupply.com/en/jackets/havana-navy-plain/C540E.html?start=21&cgid=Jackets

 

Sleeve length w/ working buttonholes. =/

I am a 38R and a 25.5" sleeve length. I haven't called to inquire if they have longer sleeves/ unfinished on some of their RTW, but I suspect I would need to do MTM. =/

post #2474 of 37438

 



Is that a herrigbone weave, and a windowpane? It is hard to keep up with this thread, but I hope for that one, it was a PASS.
post #2475 of 37438
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

 

Sleeve length w/ working buttonholes. =/

I am a 38R and a 25.5" sleeve length. I haven't called to inquire if they have longer sleeves/ unfinished on some of their RTW, but I suspect I would need to do MTM. =/


 Seems like the 94L would fit you well. And the sleeves could probably be shortened on the cuff.

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