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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1626

post #24376 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Sometimes it's important on SF to remind people that generalized preferences--especially those that serve as differentiators between people here and the general population--are still just preferences.  The "detail policing" on here can get ridiculous, to the point of spectators telling people that their jackets are obviously orphans simply because they have flap pockets when the jackets were produced MTM or MTO. 

Patch vs. flap is a preference.  It can be informed by stylistic tradition (e.g. Neapolitan vs. Savile Row vs. northern Italy), but it's not a signifier of inherent wrongness.  Greg Lellouche will happily sell you a flap pocket SC or a patch pocket suit.  We seem to think he knows what he's doing, so perhaps that's an indicator? 

I would say that if you are going to get an odd jacket MTO or MTM, you want to be conscious of not having it look like an orphaned suit jacket if you can help it. Texture of the fabric, patch pockets and different buttons than you'd typically see on a suit jacket all help with this. I agree that if we start saying anything with flap pockets is an orphan it gets to be a bit absurd, but I think in general the focus on detail is helpful and is precisely what one should expect and want out of a hobbyist forum. I agree that patch vs. flapped is a point of preference vs. a rule, but some jackets would really benefit from some casualizing features to avoid looking like orphans.

FWIW, my DB navy blazer has flapped pockets and metal buttons. My F/W SB one has two patch and metal buttons. My S/S SB one is a RAF blue linen with 3 patch and smoked MOP buttons.
post #24377 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post


I agree about caring about details.  It's what makes this fun.  I disagree about "patch pocket=SC; therefore, SC=patch pocket" being traditional.  It's a dominant preference. 

I read your first post this same way.

To put it more bluntly - big difference between understanding preferences and not knowing what you're talking about.

This site has its fair share of both of those.
post #24378 of 37396
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
The "detail policing" on here can get ridiculous, to the point of spectators telling people that their jackets are obviously orphans simply because they have flap pockets when the jackets were produced MTM or MTO. 

JW did this actually happen?

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

 

Patch vs. flap is a preference.  It can be informed by stylistic tradition (e.g. Neapolitan vs. Savile Row vs. northern Italy), but it's not a signifier of inherent wrongness.  

 

For personal knowledge, where is the flapped pocket  on a SC a preferred stylistic tradition?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

It's a dominant preference. 

 

Is a dominant preference not a tradition? Tradition is a customary way of doing something... a dominant preference. Of course you can go against the rules, but he asked for the traditional queues for a odd jacket.


Edited by venividivicibj - 5/26/15 at 11:49am
post #24379 of 37396
..double pst
post #24380 of 37396
I posted last week, but didn't get any feedback here. Should I keep the white MOP buttons or switch them out? Was thinking smoke mop, or maybe tan horn?

Thanks!!

^ Edit: also wanna be able to wear the jacket as a blazer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

Echoing the sediments of Epaulet's exceptional customer service, I thought I'd share my most recent experience. My MTO suit arrived the other day. Unfortunately, through a factory error, the suit was made in the wrong fabric (navy instead of the indigo linen) frown.gif.

I emailed EP to explain the situation. It was late in California, and even later in New York, but within minutes, Mike responded and not only offered to expedite the remake of the suit with the correct fabric, but also provided an option that allows me to keep the other as well … at a great price!

The next day, the new order was placed with the factory and I'm hopeful the suit will arrive in time for my trip. Just another example of how the team at Epaulet not only cares about its product, but also its customers. Thanks EP!


Here's a quick pic of the Navy Linen DB… Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
photo%20may%2021%2C%208%2044%2041%20pm.jpg

I'm thinking the white MOP buttons are a bit too contrasty with the navy, so I'm thinking about switching them out with smoke or something else. Any ideas!

Cheers!
post #24381 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 

 

Which are not normal suit flapped pockets. So the rule still stands.

 

It's not a rule

post #24382 of 37396

^^ It seems like you don't like the white MOP, so yes, change them. Either smoke MOP or light brown horn would be good. I just got a navy sport coat with navy MOP. It's a cool alternative.

 

As for Noodles's orphaned suit jacket, in his environment, I think it's fine for him to wear it as a sport coat, but he should change the buttons to something more casual. The fit and combo look pretty good though.

post #24383 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post
 

I'd find a picture of an SC without gold buttons but I can't.

 

Many tweed jackets fit the bill.

post #24384 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

 

It's not a rule


okay.. tradition... argue semantics all you want, the point is still correct.

post #24385 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

^^ It seems like you don't like the white MOP, so yes, change them. Either smoke MOP or light brown horn would be good. I just got a navy sport coat with navy MOP. It's a cool alternative.

 


Are those the new navy MOP from formosa? Didnayone ever take pics of them on the jacket?

post #24386 of 37396
This is badass

tumblr_noxrjfifVk1s41qhqo1_540.jpg
post #24387 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post
 


okay.. tradition... argue semantics all you want, the point is still correct.


I'm not arguing semantics. The "rules" are far more flexible than you are indicating. I'm sure you realize this and perhaps are simply making arguments that appear more rigid than you intend them to be. Ideally, a SC should have more than one element that indicates it is a less formal garment. This does not have to be a patch pocket, but it certainly can be. Flap pockets are 100% fine given some other less formal elements. Not only is the point overly rigid, it is also not always correct.

post #24388 of 37396
This is all very interesting. I've always preferred patch pockets on odd jackets (except on DB ones), but I'm not sure I would have said it was a rule or strong tradition / dominant preference. I do think that for certain fabrics (including some worsteds that should just not be made into odd jackets), patch pockets can really help erase the "suit" vibe." I'm curious if there is an actual rule or tradition that says odd jackets should have patch pockets or if it's just an extrapolation taken too far. Patch pockets are more casual than flapped pockets and odd jackets are more casual than suits, but I don't think it logically follows that odd jackets must take patch pockets. I tend to be on the more conservative rules-bound side of things, so I'd be curious to get more insight into how this rule was derived (or tradition, etc.).
post #24389 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post


I'm not arguing semantics. The "rules" are far more flexible than you are indicating. I'm sure you realize this and perhaps are simply making arguments that appear more rigid than you intend them to be. Ideally, a SC should have more than one element that indicates it is a less formal garment. This does not have to be a patch pocket, but it certainly can be. Flap pockets are 100% fine given some other less formal elements. Not only is the point overly rigid, it is also not always correct.

Yeah, this is my understanding as well.
post #24390 of 37396
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