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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1590

post #23836 of 37395

Trousers are hard.

 

It’s my impression that these days there’s even more variability in off-the-rack trousers from one maker to another then there is with jackets, for example (and lord knows there’s plenty of variability in jackets, too).

 

For instance, think how different the rise can be from one brand to another.

 

And the thighs.

 

And the …

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #23837 of 37395

@PCK1 Do you think so? I mean this as a sincere question as I'd really prefer this to NOT be an issue. I don't have huge hulking quads but they're pretty large/muscular and well, I'm not a 22 year old girl with thigh gap, so unless I hit the hip abductor/adductor hard at the gym I'm not sure how a custom pair of trousers will remedy this. As I mentioned, I've noticed this is an issue predominantly with the woolen flannels because they wear fastest. Perhaps a higher rise will reduce friction - that's the experiment I'm currently conducting. Does anybody know for sure what this is a product of? If it's excess material around the thighs...well, less and my legs are gonna feel like sausages. Have people solved this issue by going MTM/bespoke?

post #23838 of 37395
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

how much are pants from BNT?

I think around 6-700 for midrange fabric. No idea CMT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

This is something I'm really curious about: how many consider themselves clothing "generalists" who care relatively equally about all aspects of their wardrobe, and how many are "specialists" who care primarily about one aspect and build functionally around that?

I'm a "specialist" whose interest is largely in sportcoats and ties, and whose shirts, shoes, and trousers are purely complementary.  

I am definitely a specialist. Ties, squares, and jackets.
post #23839 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post
 

@PCK1 Do you think so? I mean this as a sincere question as I'd really prefer this to NOT be an issue. I don't have huge hulking quads but they're pretty large/muscular and well, I'm not a 22 year old girl with thigh gap, so unless I hit the hip abductor/adductor hard at the gym I'm not sure how a custom pair of trousers will remedy this. As I mentioned, I've noticed this is an issue predominantly with the woolen flannels because they wear fastest. Perhaps a higher rise will reduce friction - that's the experiment I'm currently conducting. Does anybody know for sure what this is a product of? If it's excess material around the thighs...well, less and my legs are gonna feel like sausages. Have people solved this issue by going MTM/bespoke?

 

Well...I think the first question to ask is how many days do you wear the same pair of trousers in a week?

 

Flannel is notorious for wearing quickly...especially if overworn.

 

While fit definitely can influence it...it may also be best for you to consider other materials....do you have these same issues with other cloths?

post #23840 of 37395

I've had the issue, to a lesser extent, with cheap cotton-linen blends (another relatively textured fabric) and again, a lesser/nearly nonexistent degree with any worsted wools. I try to wear my pants no more than once a week, but because I'm a medical student I do a lot of walking, which I imagine hastens the wear process. Not really other cloths (eg. cotton). It's been more prominent on a pair of Brooks Brothers flannel trousers (Made in Canada IIRC) I recently thrifted than a pair of PRL flannels I've had for over a year so quality may have something to do with it also.

post #23841 of 37395

Ed could easily charge double for his Panta trousers.  The construction is that impressive.  Rota...awesome.  That is all.

post #23842 of 37395
Good fit definitely makes a difference in how quickly trousers wear out, but I expect very few things to last forever anyway. Generally speaking, jackets last a longer time for me, so I am more likely to pay a bit more for a sport coat than I would be to do the same for trousers. I've been fortunate to get what I regard as a very good fit from Luxire on my most recent trousers, so I will probably get most of my trousers from them going forward along with picking up the occasional pair of Rota, which fit me pretty well and I enjoy wearing. I definitely don't see an issue with $1,200 bespoke pants, but I'm not sure I see the value for me. I think I am somewhat of a generalist with my clothes, but I probably assign a slightly lower priority to trousers.
post #23843 of 37395

Salva makes a great pair and once you go bespoke you'll want to throw all your RTW trousers in the trash bin. Luxire is great but please don't compare the two. They're worlds apart. I'll take one "spot on" trouser over ten "close enough". Sending one pair to have copied won't produce the same results. Think of it as an investment and not just some piece you had made up when you came across a great thread here on the forums and throw into the back of your closet when the next popular trend surfaces.

 

He ain't cheap but the $1250 includes customs, shipping, fabric, a fitting, and convenience. You can get them made in Naples for 700 euro or whatever he charges but unless you're ballin out in bespoke swag juice and hitting up Naples a few times a year there's not a lot of reason to complain about the price when you factor in all the other costs of traveling.

post #23844 of 37395
He was making the same trousers for 400-500 dollars just a few years back. What warrants the almost 200% increase in price? Did quality improve?
post #23845 of 37395

Huge spike in demand over the past few years

post #23846 of 37395
I'm not claiming that Luxire or Ambrosi are comparable; I simply said I think the fit on my Luxire trousers (most recent iteration) is very good and that I don't personally see the value of $1,200 pants (though I have no issue with them in concept). We all have our point of diminishing marginal returns with these things.

Edit: Also, to the extent one budgets a certain amount for clothing, we're looking at say 3 pairs of Ambrosi trousers versus probably 15 from Luxire. If you only have 3 pairs of trousers, you're going to wear them out and have limited seasonal versatility whereas you could get an entire odd trouser wardrobe from Luxire for the same price. You can't wear the same pair of trousers everyday, so I think you must be exaggerating a bit with your comment about preferring 1 perfect to 10 close enough.
post #23847 of 37395

Sorry I didn't see your post before I made mine. It wasn't directed at your post...

 

The premium one pays going through a third party ensures timely delivery. A small price to pay for your sanity when dealing with Italians, because we all know how 2 weeks = 2 months to them. :nest:

post #23848 of 37395
^ Fair enough. To me it's about diminishing marginal returns and such and where would I rather spend XYZ dollars. I certainly respect and appreciate that some people, especially on a place like SF, love to get as close to perfection as they can and will pay a premium for that and I definitely get paying a premium for convenience / timeliness as you say.
post #23849 of 37395

I can understand being frugal based on ones budget but I don't think it's a good idea to be cheap. If a guy is readily able and willing to drop 1k on a jacket/new kicks then he owes it to himself to get some quality pents.

post #23850 of 37395

Anyone ever heard of Viola Milano? Saw some of their ties, but was wondering if they were good quality considering the price point

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