Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

[archibaldleach]

^ I have to disagree on the tie in question. With some striped ties, sure, but the tie he has picked out is completely tasteful and grown up. I don't see anyone mistaking it for a school uniform tie.

 

[mimo]

It's not the tie in itself, it's the combination of Noodles' fresh face and infant-like proportionately large head, his preference for plain mid-grey and navy jackets, and his seemingly pubescent wonder at the world.

I agree, as stripes go, it's perfectly understated and tasteful.

 

[Isolation]

I have like one plaid shirt I wear casually, and I have a similar figure/look as noodles kind of, and I think the shirt looks quite good on me, albeit only on a quite casual context. Think it looks a lot different on me than most of my other clothes, but sometimes I want that.

 

[mimo]

It's the overalls with holes in, at the southern end of the picture, that worry me more. And the sleeves partially rolled up as if washing the dishes.

But I'm a peculiarly reactionary individual when it comes to these things, and I appreciate that I'm in a tiny minority.

 

[Isolation]

Are knit ties not acceptable to be worn with worsted suits (say gray/navy)?

 

[mimo]

I think it depends on the context. I'm picturing perhaps a brown or tan belt and shoes, micro-check shirt, maybe even a button down, a cheerful cotton PS: in this instance, the navy suit is looking less Anglo-business and more southern European and light. I think that would work just fine with a knit.

Generally I wear knits with odd jackets or a linen suit, because it's good to be consistent with tone. But I think a navy worsted suit, or grey especially on the lighter side, is versatile enough to go either way as long as all the other elements are in tune.

 

[BespokeKiwi]

Just in time to go back to bashing my tailor!

Here, he's going to let out the trousers a bit more as it's too tight on the calves, and also shorten it slightly. I'll repost next week and hopefully it'll be okay then. I want to remind everyone this time that I did ask for tighter trousers and Ricky did say it was his fault he made an error with the tailor so he'll get it sorted and the next trousers should be fine. But yeah trousers still super creased but hopefully it can be fixed. Oh and some of the creasing is because the tailor pinned in some alterations at the thigh.

I think the jacket looks okay though, thoughts?







Going to loosen the linen trousers slightly here, which should fix the stacking of fabric, also increasing the opening width because it's causing the trousers to break well onto the shoes or whatever.. There's some bunching of fabric at the back waist with the tweed jacket but I have other photos that don't show this and I suspect it's caused by standing posture more than anything.

@Isolation your jacket fits are progressing nicely. In particular, the backs are a lot smoother and much more flattering now than your last set of images posted over on the HK tailors thread. Progress! Obviously, the trouser fits need further refinement. Best wishes with your new commissions.

 

[BespokeKiwi]

Nah, I know there are a few silent souls in here who came for this thread for solace and guidance.

But now they should stand and testify

@Claghorn while not suffering from Noddles' "navy on navy (NON)" affliction (AKA Navy OCD Noodles), this relative SF newcomer wishes to testify that he has benefited greatly from lurking on this thread. I wish to thank you and the other thread contributors for the quick fire master class on the initial subject of assembling a basic non-navy tie collection, before moving on to other ensemble related topics.

@Rudals thanks for the vicarious learning opportunity. P.S. The "NON" quip above is "good natured", no malice intended.

 

[heldentenor]

What did you have in mind then?

I'm down with white linen as long as it's folded discreetly. You're wearing a masterpiece; why do you want to draw people's eyes straight to a small piece of white linen?

 

[mimo]

^^ Quite. It's the perfect PS for the job, but less is more.

Also, further to the striped tie business, this is a very nice one. "Tie Your Tie" for Exquisite Trimmings:

 

[Isolation]

I just ordered some ties from Sam Hober. I really have a money spending problem. I haven't even worn half my ties more than once.

 

[AJL]

Any reasonable recourse for too-high armholes, or am I SOL? Recently received my first (of 3) Formosa mto SC's and after wearing it around a bit, I realized that the armholes are too tight when I bring my arms forward.

I tried on a suit initially to check for fit, and while it seemed a bit snug across the back (I believe I mentioned as much here a few months back, when I posted a few shots of both a 48 and a 50), I did not detect this additional issue.

I am bummed, to say the least, and, having done a (very) brief bit of research on this topic, I am not optimistic. The thought of having somebody tinker with this beautiful jacket is also a bit unsettling.

 

[unbelragazzo]



Any reasonable recourse for too-high armholes, or am I SOL? Recently received my first (of 3) Formosa mto SC's and after wearing it around a bit, I realized that the armholes are too tight when I bring my arms forward.

I tried on a suit initially to check for fit, and while it seemed a bit snug across the back (I believe I mentioned as much here a few months back, when I posted a few shots of both a 48 and a 50), I did not detect this additional issue.

I am bummed, to say the least, and, having done a (very) brief bit of research on this topic, I am not optimistic. The thought of having somebody tinker with this beautiful jacket is also a bit unsettling.

Not sure I fully understand the problem you're describing, but are you in New York? If so probably best to bring it by next time Dionisio (head tailor at Formosa) is in town and see what he says.

 

[AJL]

Am in Boston (though, slightly ironically, was at NMWA this past monday for a visit and the jacket was waiting for me when I returned home).

What I'm trying to say is the armscye (I believe) is too restrictive. With my arms at my side I can feel how snug it is around my shoulders, though not uncomfortably so. When I raise my arms in front of me (I actually detected this when I went to wash my hands) there is an uncomfortable amount of tension around my shoulders and pits.

 

[unbelragazzo]



Am in Boston (though, slightly ironically, was at NMWA this past monday for a visit and the jacket was waiting for me when I returned home).

What I'm trying to say is the armscye (I believe) is too restrictive. With my arms at my side I can feel how snug it is around my shoulders, though not uncomfortably so. When I raise my arms in front of me (I actually detected this when I went to wash my hands) there is an uncomfortable amount of tension around my shoulders and pits.

Without seeing it, and with the disclaimer that I am not a tailor, I'm guessing that this could be alleviated by letting out the side seams a little bit to give more space across the shoulder blades.