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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1540

post #23086 of 37396
I wonder what the difference in rise between those two pants is and if that's responsible for the difference.
post #23087 of 37396
SVB, comparing the navy jacket is difficult because it's not just shorter, it also has open quarters. Disentangling which element is having the greater visual effect is difficult. I suspect that opening the quarters on the YSL would yield the greatest results.

If you don't want to taper the pants below the knee, you must lengthen them until there's a break. A leg opening that wide just doesn't work with a zero or negative break. You'll look like the country mouse come to the city.
post #23088 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

It looks like you might be slightly bowlegged. I think another member here, @Beatlegeuse , is also a bit bowlegged but has addressed the issue decently through MTM.

 

I think the navy jacket is the best I've seen on you (and I think I've seen most, though feel free to post the collection here). Of everything you own, that would be the one I'd have Luxire copy.

 

Well, that one is Epaulet (made by Southwick) so I can always just order more of those and get a reliable fit every time if that's what I wanted, so I wouldn't risk the process of copying just to save a few bucks. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Trying to alter this suit or having Luxire make a new one based on this is most likely going to end up in disappointment and a lot of money wasted. It's simply not a very flattering cut for you, and if the suit was made with the dropped right shoulder in mind, simply removing the padding will create lots of other problems.

 

Well I disagree about the cut not being more flattering, but I probably need to get it tailored before I'm going to convince anyone of that at this point. It's definitely an off-the-rack suit that was modified in the right shoulder as opposed to being designed that way to start, so it should be a simple enough fix.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

I wonder what the difference in rise between those two pants is and if that's responsible for the difference.

 

The YSL is definitely higher-rise, but I'll have to check by how much. Probably at least an inch though.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

SVB, comparing the navy jacket is difficult because it's not just shorter, it also has open quarters. Disentangling which element is having the greater visual effect is difficult. I suspect that opening the quarters on the YSL would yield the greatest results.

If you don't want to taper the pants below the knee, you must lengthen them until there's a break. A leg opening that wide just doesn't work with a zero or negative break. You'll look like the country mouse come to the city.

 

Yeah there seems to be pretty good consensus in SW&D as well on the pants-lengthening, so I'm going to have that done for sure.

 

 

Anyway, thanks everyone for all the input, I'll post results once I get the tailoring done and we'll see what everyone thinks at that point.

post #23089 of 37396
NOT AS LONG AS THE PICS IN SW&D! That puddling nonsense doesn't look good on anyone. The one pic of '80s YSL is as long as you'd want to go.
post #23090 of 37396
WIWWFYAT (What I Was Wearing Five Years Ago Today)



The only item I still own is the handkerchief...
post #23091 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

WIWWFYAT (What I Was Wearing Five Years Ago Today)

Nice idea for a thread! smile.gif
post #23092 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

NOT AS LONG AS THE PICS IN SW&D! That puddling nonsense doesn't look good on anyone. The one pic of '80s YSL is as long as you'd want to go.

 

Well good, that's the one that stood out to me anyway. 

post #23093 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

WIWWFYAT (What I Was Wearing Five Years Ago Today)
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


The only item I still own is the handkerchief...

Beats mine by miles.

I think I hold the title of "The Worst Dresser Before SF."

post #23094 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post

Well, that one is Epaulet (made by Southwick) so I can always just order more of those and get a reliable fit every time if that's what I wanted, so I wouldn't risk the process of copying just to save a few bucks. 


Well I disagree about the cut not being more flattering, but I probably need to get it tailored before I'm going to convince anyone of that at this point. It's definitely an off-the-rack suit that was modified in the right shoulder as opposed to being designed that way to start, so it should be a simple enough fix.


The YSL is definitely higher-rise, but I'll have to check by how much. Probably at least an inch though.


Yeah there seems to be pretty good consensus in SW&D as well on the pants-lengthening, so I'm going to have that done for sure.


Anyway, thanks everyone for all the input, I'll post results once I get the tailoring done and we'll see what everyone thinks at that point.

It just seems weird to me that you would use this suit as a base, while you have things that fit you so much better. That navy jacket you showed is much nicer than this one, for example.
post #23095 of 37396
5 years ago today...motorcycle trip to Yosemite. Only suit I owned at the time was my dress uniform.

post #23096 of 37396

^ Wouldn't have recognized you!

post #23097 of 37396

^It must be his brother with narrower shoulders. 

post #23098 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

^ Wouldn't have recognized you!

I know....I get sexier with age!
post #23099 of 37396

^ LOL. Oldest fit pic - or something like it- that I could find, december 2002. Yes, I'm old...

 

 

Satin burnt orange Armani tie :uhoh:

post #23100 of 37396

Elioda,

 

I don't hate it.  In fact, I still wear a couple of shiny ties for evening and formal business wear, though I prefer a neat pattern.  And that's a nice suit.  But coffee with a whisky chaser?

 

SVB, two more thoughts:

 

- I have a similar problem with trousers, though slightly the other way: my calves are big and my lower legs stick out wider than my hips.  Making trousers hang neatly for SF pics is hard.  But not the end of the world either: when you're sitting or walking it matters little, though I'm sure a little experimentation will help.  

 

- I think that one reason when you look at the YSL jacket and feel happier is the shoulders, asymmetric or not.  You have a long slim neck, like the rest of you, and although SF loves a spalla camicia and all, a more classic padded shoulder lifts your shoulders up a little visually, which suits you.  It's a stronger, more imposing look, and why not?  Cut both your pics off below the shoulders and you'll see what I mean.

 

Higher buttoning points and slightly slim, tapered trousers are literally made to suit a tall slim fellow like yourself, so don't throw out the baby with the bath water.  I think keeping those things while going for a classic, stronger jacket shoulder, might be where your sweet spot lies.

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