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post #23071 of 37403

@StanleyVanBuren what @mimo said, and in addition to that: since you're considering using it as a base for a Luxire suit to copy, I'd suggest to move the button a little bit higher in combination with a slightly shorter jacket. The buttoning point is very low now, even below the waistline of the jacket. Which is why, to me, the suit looks a lot better as a 3 piece.

I quite like the low gorge on you as it breaks up the vertical lines nicely, but I'm not a fan of those downward, sad looking collar points. Since it's a French style anyway, perhaps Luxire can make you a fish mouth lapel, Parisian style:

 

 

And that shoulder pad is too obvious, better reduce that a lot.

Nice looking suit overall. Good retro vibe without looking to dated.

post #23072 of 37403
I like the suit a lot boxy shoulders and all. It has definition and the lapel was YSL's signature style at some point. I would defer with the opinion thus far about the lengt, you have longer arms so it balances your proportions. I'd nip the waist to get rid of the excess fabric near the midsection and won't taper the pants. The pants look great.
post #23073 of 37403
post #23074 of 37403
SVB, I mostly agree with mimo's suggestions. The pants are too short and too wide at the hem, but only slightly for the latter. Shoulders are too padded, the gorge is a bit too low, quarters are way too closed. Some waist suppression would do nicely, and it looks like you're swimming in the vest. Is the buttoning point in fact below your natural waist? I'm not as confident about that as Elio.

Overall, I'm not sure this is a good candidate for alterations, let alone a base for Luxire.
post #23075 of 37403

Nice trading with you @Mr. Six ! :slayer:

Yours is on the way!

post #23076 of 37403
Hi guys,

We will be going to Pitti Uomo 88 in June and was hoping to get some input on what you all would be interested in seeing.

We will be taking lots of pictures, meeting a lot of people and looking at a lot of new collections. If you'd like to give us suggestions on what you'd be interested in seeing, please do so here.

Cheers!
post #23077 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Jacket could also be a half inch shorter, especially as your torso is so slim, and the trousers could perhaps be tapered a little, and longer.  Both of those things will improve the proportions, I think.  But it looks great, as two or three piece.  In the latter form, dandy it up a bit with a brighter PS/tie combo.  As for shoes, a smooth light tan derby, perhaps?  Spectators for the three piece version.  Because.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

I don't like the way those shoulders look on you. You certainly need some structure, but not like this. Perhaps a slightly less padded and roped shoulder would look better?

Because quite a bit needs to be changed I'd hesitate sending this suit to luxire. People who've sent in perfectly fitting suits got less than stellar results, so I'm wondering what would happen if you need to change this much.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

@StanleyVanBuren what @mimo said, and in addition to that: since you're considering using it as a base for a Luxire suit to copy, I'd suggest to move the button a little bit higher in combination with a slightly shorter jacket. The buttoning point is very low now, even below the waistline of the jacket. Which is why, to me, the suit looks a lot better as a 3 piece.

I quite like the low gorge on you as it breaks up the vertical lines nicely, but I'm not a fan of those downward, sad looking collar points. Since it's a French style anyway, perhaps Luxire can make you a fish mouth lapel, Parisian style:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

And that shoulder pad is too obvious, better reduce that a lot.

Nice looking suit overall. Good retro vibe without looking to dated.

 

 

Kind of surprised by these comments actually, since it sounds like the direction you're telling me to head is backwards. Most of my suits have shorter jackets, higher buttoning points, and more tapered trousers and those features are precisely what I was trying to get away from with this. I understand if you guys aren't totally up on my post history, though.

 

To explain then, I think the YSL suit is far better in all of these categories, for my overall body shape at least, which is a combination of thin with a short torso and long legs. More tapered trousers never seem to fall/drape well on me, but the full leg on the YSL suit is hanging nearly perfectly. The buttoning point is exactly at my natural waist, and the jacket length balances out my short torso/long legs better than the shorter jackets do. Consider these two side-by-side:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
tumblr_nnv0miR4mK1r8bgano1_400.jpg tumblr_nn8ngx4Wu21r8bgano1_400.jpg

 

I can't figure out why the grey pants don't just hang properly. None of my pants that are this slim do. It's a heavy fabric too so there should be no reason why this is the way it is other than maybe I have odd-shaped legs, but if so, I don't know what the solution is other than to just opt for a full-cut leg and be done with it.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

I like the suit a lot boxy shoulders and all. It has definition and the lapel was YSL's signature style at some point. I would defer with the opinion thus far about the lengt, you have longer arms so it balances your proportions. I'd nip the waist to get rid of the excess fabric near the midsection and won't taper the pants. The pants look great.

 

I do dig the signature YSL lapels and they were one of the features that drew me to this suit. I definitely still think the jacket needs to be brought in at the waist, so that will happen for sure. Same with removing the excess padding in the right shoulder. It may be hard to tell from these photos that it needs it but I think I will have him slim the arms just a bit as well. I'm always concerned with losing movement though, especially across the upper back. I'm pretty flat-chested so most jackets fit me loose in the chest, but then my tailor solves this by taking material out of the back panel leaving me with no flexibility and unable to stretch my arms forward at all. But I think the YSL style lends itself to a nipped waist without it looking out of proportion if the chest is still generous enough to allow some flexibility.

 

As far as the pants go, I think messing with them is going to screw up the style, the fit, the drape, etc. I could see letting them out maybe half an inch in order to get some amount of break but even that I'm not sure about. I'm worried that if I do that then it's going to screw up the clean lines. What do you guys think about having slanted cuffs instead? I could try asking my tailor to let them out half an inch in the back only. The other option is just getting shoes that work better with the full-cut legs.

post #23078 of 37403
Thread Starter 
I think a middle ground between this and your previous stuff is what they are imagining.
post #23079 of 37403
I found an old pic. Just 2 years ago. I am tempted to post on WAYWRN.
post #23080 of 37403
^ Do you have a mullet in that pic?
post #23081 of 37403
No but I was 160 lbs in that pic.
post #23082 of 37403

@StanleyVanBuren like claghorn says, somewhere in the middle would be best, IMO. To me the YSL suit actually enhances the tall & thin look compared to the other fit you showed. I assume that is not what you want? Also, your trousers don't drape well because your legs are like () instead of ||

post #23083 of 37403
@StanleyVanBuren

I see what you're saying about the grey pants not hanging well. Have you considered going bespoke? It may be that you have an atypical way of standing, and hence need a special shape to your pants legs. @Despos can you comment for the education of this entire thread?

But I also don't like the YSL pants. Too wide at the bottom. They seem to swallow up your shoes.

Claghorn's suggestion for a middle ground is appropriate
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyVanBuren View Post


tumblr_nnv0miR4mK1r8bgano1_400.jpg tumblr_nn8ngx4Wu21r8bgano1_400.jpg

I can't figure out why the grey pants don't just hang properly. None of my pants that are this slim do. It's a heavy fabric too so there should be no reason why this is the way it is other than maybe I have odd-shaped legs, but if so, I don't know what the solution is other than to just opt for a full-cut leg and be done with it.

I do dig the signature YSL lapels and they were one of the features that drew me to this suit. I definitely still think the jacket needs to be brought in at the waist, so that will happen for sure. Same with removing the excess padding in the right shoulder. It may be hard to tell from these photos that it needs it but I think I will have him slim the arms just a bit as well. I'm always concerned with losing movement though, especially across the upper back. I'm pretty flat-chested so most jackets fit me loose in the chest, but then my tailor solves this by taking material out of the back panel leaving me with no flexibility and unable to stretch my arms forward at all. But I think the YSL style lends itself to a nipped waist without it looking out of proportion if the chest is still generous enough to allow some flexibility.

As far as the pants go, I think messing with them is going to screw up the style, the fit, the drape, etc. I could see letting them out maybe half an inch in order to get some amount of break but even that I'm not sure about. I'm worried that if I do that then it's going to screw up the clean lines. What do you guys think about having slanted cuffs instead? I could try asking my tailor to let them out half an inch in the back only. The other option is just getting shoes that work better with the full-cut legs.
post #23084 of 37403
Thread Starter 

It looks like you might be slightly bowlegged. I think another member here, @Beatlegeuse , is also a bit bowlegged but has addressed the issue decently through MTM.

 

I think the navy jacket is the best I've seen on you (and I think I've seen most, though feel free to post the collection here). Of everything you own, that would be the one I'd have Luxire copy.

post #23085 of 37403
Trying to alter this suit or having Luxire make a new one based on this is most likely going to end up in disappointment and a lot of money wasted. It's simply not a very flattering cut for you, and if the suit was made with the dropped right shoulder in mind, simply removing the padding will create lots of other problems.

Either accept you'll have to get (in person, not online) bespoke if you want your suits to fit well, or start working out so that RTW will fit you better.
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