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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1537

post #23041 of 37396

Can we back off a little bit with the denigrating of SnowSwat?  He knows his jacket doesn't flatter him, but he's in a situation not of his choosing with an online MTM suitmaker because of an obligation to a friend as part of his wedding.  He wants to make the best of a bad option.  He came here for help, and he's been honest and humble (not defensive) in the pursuit of it.  

 

Snowswat, the most necessary changes are probably out of the range of possibilities for Indochino MTM, but here's what I would do:

 

1) Size down.  Unless you have the shoulders of a bodybuilder/linebacker, those look too wide, and they're going to affect the proportions of all the rest of the garment.  If they're wide because of structure/padding and they're already snug, not much you can do; c'est la vie.  

2) Suppress the waist.  It's not a miracle-working solution by itself, but it has the virtue of being easy.  This may also help correct the closed quarters.    

3) Taper the sleeves.  They're very full.  Again, should be easy for either Indochino or an alterations tailor to accomplish if they're competent.  

 

I'm honestly not sure I would play with either the length or the button point, though 3/4 inch lower on both accounts would flatter you more.  

 

Good luck!

post #23042 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

Can we back off a little bit with the denigrating of SnowSwat?  He knows his jacket doesn't flatter him, but he's in a situation not of his choosing with an online MTM suitmaker because of an obligation to a friend as part of his wedding.  He wants to make the best of a bad option.  He came here for help, and he's been honest and humble (not defensive) in the pursuit of it.  

 

Snowswat, the most necessary changes are probably out of the range of possibilities for Indochino MTM, but here's what I would do:

 

1) Size down.  Unless you have the shoulders of a bodybuilder/linebacker, those look too wide, and they're going to affect the proportions of all the rest of the garment.  If they're wide because of structure/padding and they're already snug, not much you can do; c'est la vie.  

2) Suppress the waist.  It's not a miracle-working solution by itself, but it has the virtue of being easy.  This may also help correct the closed quarters.    

3) Taper the sleeves.  They're very full.  Again, should be easy for either Indochino or an alterations tailor to accomplish if they're competent.  

 

I'm honestly not sure I would play with either the length or the button point, though 3/4 inch lower on both accounts would flatter you more.  

 

Good luck!


Though the other responses were still helpful, this is more along the lines of what I was looking for.

The shoulders probably appear wide due to the jacket's structure/padding. If anything, the jacket's shoulder measurement is a bit small; my lateral delts are actually pushing beyond the padding. For instance, if I lean sideways into a wall, my deltoid hits the first before the padding. If I size down I will likely run the risk of making it appear worse. 

Thank you for the tips! 

post #23043 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post

Can we back off a little bit with the denigrating of SnowSwat?  He knows his jacket doesn't flatter him, but he's in a situation not of his choosing with an online MTM suitmaker because of an obligation to a friend as part of his wedding.  He wants to make the best of a bad option.  He came here for help, and he's been honest and humble (not defensive) in the pursuit of it.  

Snowswat, the most necessary changes are probably out of the range of possibilities for Indochino MTM, but here's what I would do:

1) Size down.  Unless you have the shoulders of a bodybuilder/linebacker, those look too wide, and they're going to affect the proportions of all the rest of the garment.  If they're wide because of structure/padding and they're already snug, not much you can do; c'est la vie.  
2) Suppress the waist.  It's not a miracle-working solution by itself, but it has the virtue of being easy.  This may also help correct the closed quarters.    
3) Taper the sleeves.  They're very full.  Again, should be easy for either Indochino or an alterations tailor to accomplish if they're competent.  

I'm honestly not sure I would play with either the length or the button point, though 3/4 inch lower on both accounts would flatter you more.  

Good luck!

I think knowing the full extent of SS's situation sheds a different light on things, but as he himself indicated, he would not be pursuing this avenue at all if he had any other options, which he apparently does not. Since full disclosure was not made until after several initial posts, I don't think there was any real denigrating going on here (at least not on my part, I was more trying to dissuade him from throwing good money after bad).

That said, I would agree with your assessment on all counts, and I also tend to think that the length and buttoning point is the least troubling aspect of this fit; by making additional adjustments one runs the risk of introducing some other issue of balance, etc (if it ain't *really* broke, don't fix it?)
post #23044 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowSwat View Post


Though the other responses were still helpful, this is more along the lines of what I was looking for.


The shoulders probably appear wide due to the jacket's structure/padding. If anything, the jacket's shoulder measurement is a bit small; my lateral delts are actually pushing beyond the padding. For instance, if I lean sideways into a wall, my deltoid hits the first before the padding. If I size down I will likely run the risk of making it appear worse. 


Thank you for the tips! 

Open the center seam at the back to resolve the pull causing the shoulder divits (this is not really a prefered solution but its necessary in this case). Would like to widen the pants legs if possible but you may just have to live with the weird proportions relative to your sleeves.
post #23045 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

So I have finally decided to buy a pair of black captoes from Steve at GFW. Now if one was to have a black tie would a grenadine be a "perfect" black tie to own?

Yes to the black grenadine.
post #23046 of 37396
Along with everything heldentenor mentioned, widening the lapel may reduce the too-big shoulders lookmm
post #23047 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

Along with everything heldentenor mentioned, widening the lapel may reduce the too-big shoulders lookmm

Interesting. There is only a wide peak lapel (3.25") option with Indochino. Though this may have the opposite effect and draw more attention to the shoulders?  

post #23048 of 37396
Kopped a Shibumi grenadine. Been wanting to try them so I got the black one from them
post #23049 of 37396
@Cleav
Thank you for showing how it should be done. I owe you for today's WAYWRN post. I also owe you for the shoes advice.

This past Saturdays, I went to SuSu and was very disappointed in what they were caring. Not much selection and bad quality. DC SuSu disappointed.
post #23050 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

@Cleav
Thank you for showing how it should be done. I owe you for today's WAYWRN post. I also owe you for the shoes advice.

This past Saturdays, I went to SuSu and was very disappointed in what they were caring. Not much selection and bad quality. DC SuSu disappointed.

You know your sizes so just order online....free shipping. I wasn't too impressed by that store either.
post #23051 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

@Cleav
Thank you for showing how it should be done. I owe you for today's WAYWRN post. I also owe you for the shoes advice.

This past Saturdays, I went to SuSu and was very disappointed in what they were caring. Not much selection and bad quality. DC SuSu disappointed.
The customer service at SuSu DC has really gone down hill. Last time I bought something there they hemmed the pants 2 inches higher than requested. When I politely asked them to correct it, the salesperson condescendingly told me that I had no idea what I was doing. Anything longer and 'I would be laughed at' (the pants were hemmed at my lower calf, for the record..)
post #23052 of 37396
They are SALESpeople but I wish they had some freaking sense when it came to suits.
post #23053 of 37396
Thread Starter 

I very badly want to troll the Suit Supply sales staff. Very, very badly. So very badly. The nearest one is 4 hours away. And I feel like I would need to purchase something from a truly successful troll. Otherwise I'm just being an ass.

post #23054 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I very badly want to troll the Suit Supply sales staff. Very, very badly. So very badly. The nearest one is 4 hours away. And I feel like I would need to purchase something from a truly successful troll. Otherwise I'm just being an ass.

how would yo troll them?
post #23055 of 37396
Thread Starter 
I'd wait for them to proffer advice and then pounce.
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