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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1487

post #22291 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 

I'm dropping off a few things at the tailor this afternoon. Would it be foolish not to get working button holes on the Formosa? I like them, but they're not exactly cheap at this tailor...


@sebastian mcfox

 

Not worth it unless free, IMO. People in the know will be (rightly) more impressed with the cut of the suit; people not in the know won't care.

 

BTW: Kent Wang has released pocket squares in 17x17 (they are $65 as opposed to $45 for the smaller ones). I always thought he had some nice designs and there was a little bit of a back and forth with him I think in this thread about the size of squares where many of us pushed for his offering bigger ones.

post #22292 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post


Ha ha....interesting description smile.gif Well, each to his own. You can live a very happy and stylish life without ever owning a silk knit tie. (although it is the perfect travel tie...never wrinkles). On the flip-side, I have never owned a Grenadine.

@GusW

 

Why not Gus? They are quite nice, especially the big weaves (they are delicate tho, especially with dry hands in winter).

post #22293 of 37396

Dear Noodlers, what do you say: is this gorge too low?

 

post #22294 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post
 

I'm dropping off a few things at the tailor this afternoon. Would it be foolish not to get working button holes on the Formosa? I like them, but they're not exactly cheap at this tailor...

Just put the buttons and and forget about making them working button holes. Unless, tailor does it for free.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

Dear Noodlers, what do you say: is this gorge too low?

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Low...it is.

post #22295 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


@sebastian mcfox

 

Not worth it unless free, IMO. People in the know will be (rightly) more impressed with the cut of the suit; people not in the know won't care.

 

BTW: Kent Wang has released pocket squares in 17x17 (they are $65 as opposed to $45 for the smaller ones). I always thought he had some nice designs and there was a little bit of a back and forth with him I think in this thread about the size of squares where many of us pushed for his offering bigger ones.

Thanks, at $25 a hole I think it's tricky to justify..

 

PS haven't forgotten about the Eidos jakcet comparison, will get something up tonight

post #22296 of 37396
@Elio do you have a different angle? Objectively, yes, much lower than usually preferred. However, in the pic they don't look bad at all, perhaps because their not, or perhaps because the jacket fits so well, or perhaps because of the angle. (Or some combination of the above)
post #22297 of 37396

I think it's useful on occasion when discussing gorge height to take the wearer’s physique and the desired effect into account.  Other factors being equal, for example, a lower gorge can often create the illusion of greater height; coupled with a wide lapel a higher gorge can create the illusion of a broader chest.  Etc. 

 

Also, I think that ideally it needs to be evaluated in the context of the entire jacket’s geometry, not as an independent element.

 

IMO, of course.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #22298 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jssdc View Post

@Elio do you have a different angle? Objectively, yes, much lower than usually preferred. However, in the pic they don't look bad at all, perhaps because their not, or perhaps because the jacket fits so well, or perhaps because of the angle. (Or some combination of the above)

 

No other pics yet, I just got it in today. It's a bit of an experiment. It's my first foray into DB since the dreaded broad shouldered monstrosities I wore in high school back in the 1980s.

I dislike the 'modern' DB silhouette as exemplified by those Suit Supply jackets where the gorge sits so high that the lapels peak out above the shoulder line. So when I saw this online I thought it was worth a try, but now I've tried it on I feel it may be a bit too low. Funny thing though: I'm rather short and was always told that short guys benefit from higher gorges, but when I put this one on it made me look like 5cm taller than usual... :confused: 

 

Edit: @Academic2 just posted what I noted: the lower gorge makes me look taller. And I always thought it was the other way around?

post #22299 of 37396
Gorge is not ridiculously low, it's the shoulder padding that bothers me.
post #22300 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

[...]

 

 

I dislike the 'modern' DB silhouette as exemplified by those Suit Supply jackets where the gorge sits so high that the lapels peak out above the shoulder line.  [...]

 

I share the dislike, for what it's worth—Ac

 

Edit: @Academic2 just posted what I noted: the lower gorge makes me look taller. And I always thought it was the other way around?

 

That's my experience.

 

The other crucial factor in the effect, of course, is jacket length, which can't really be judged from the photo.  In my opinion there's a bit more flexibility in the length of a DB than a SB, and that can be taken advantage of in the creation of desired optical illusions.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #22301 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Gorge is not ridiculously low, it's the shoulder padding that bothers me.

 

There's hardly any padding at all. Shoulders look rumply because the jacket has been packed in a box for 14 days.

 

I'll try to take better pics when I have the time.

Thanks for the feedback so far, gents!

post #22302 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Dear Noodlers, what do you say: is this gorge too low?

The fashion trend has been for a DB peak lapels to be a bit wider and higher. I've seen some lately that have gone way too far (although the bloggers seem to like to photograph them). The lapels in your pic are more subtle and understated which is fine, if that is the look you want. But to be more fashionable in an expressive Italian way, yes they are a bit low and narrow. Do you want more expressive lapels? That is the real question.
post #22303 of 37396
Elio, a full picture would help but I think it looks fine. My general view on these things is unless something is off enough to compromise the look, there's a range for these things and the main question should be do you look good in it. I suspect the answer to that question is yes.
post #22304 of 37396
Fun you brought that up, EliodA. I was actually asking myself the same question with regard to a SC I've planned on purchasing:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


While the gorge seems lower on your SC than the SC I intend to purchase, it seems more OK/forgiving on yours. Could it have to do with the fact that yours is a DB while mine is a SB, or that yours features peak lapels while mine features notch lapels?

I think yours looks good, btw.
post #22305 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusW View Post


The fashion trend has been for a DB peak lapels to be a bit wider and higher. I've seen some lately that have gone way too far (although the bloggers seem to like to photograph them). The lapels in your pic are more subtle and understated which is fine, if that is the look you want. But to be more fashionable in an expressive Italian way, yes they are a bit low and narrow. Do you want more expressive lapels? That is the real question.

 

This seems to be the question, indeed. I'd say certainly not fashion forward, but of course I want to avoid looking like an old man... From the comments so far, it seems acceptable. Now, I have to get used to it :D

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Fun you brought that up, EliodA. I was actually asking myself the same question with regard to a SC I've planned on purchasing: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


While the gorge seems lower on your SC than the SC I intend to purchase, it seems more OK/forgiving on yours. Could it have to do with the fact that yours is a DB while mine is a SB, or that yours features peak lapels while mine features notch lapels?

I think yours looks good, btw.

 

Don, I think with a single breasted SC a low gorge is less desirable because of the downward pointing lines which leaves a sad and tired impression to my eyes. You don't have that with DB of course.

FWIW, I think the lapels/gorges of the SC you posted are still acceptable, albeit perhaps not fashionably high.

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