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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1441

post #21601 of 37396

I think one of the best places to start is with the old “Coherent Combinations” thread.  Archive.org has it here:

 

https://web.archive.org/web/20120217213454/http://www.styleforum.net/t/287922/practical-thoughts-on-coherent-combinations-for-beginners

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #21602 of 37396

Is there a similar single source for fit issues?

I think Helden, CM, and Elio have provide great advice, but I was just wondering if there is a single place to which we can refer people so that they better understand the fit of jacket and pants?

 

Once one goes beyond length of sleeves and inseam, and x-pulling on the chest, there is still much to know and recognize - collar gap, clean back, balance, back rise, compensating for sway back, hips forward, drop shoulder/hip, etc. 

post #21603 of 37396
There's the tailor's advice thread which I think used to have more posts by Despos and someone else (a Philly based tailor, maybe?), but is still a pretty good source.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions

Looks like Despos still posts there.
post #21604 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
 

I've got to say that this is a great assortment of winter ties.  Very tasteful

 

Thanks Greg. Of course, two are from NMWA and one was also stocked by you though I picked it up elsewhere (block striped, and the two herringbones).

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

I, too, would be happy to see pics (a lovely collection as it stands, by the way).

 

If I may ask, what do you have your eye on?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

Cheers Ac. Alas funds are limited and I have to wait a little before buying anything but here are some things that have caught my eye (not all of them mind you :satisfied:). To fill in some perceived gaps...

 

 

Vanda Blue Donegal, sourced from Molloy and Sons

 

 

This Vanda brown challis 

 

 

 

 

Incidentally, there are two Drake's at NMWA that are very similar to the two Drake's striped ties I have

 

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/accessories/neckties/handrolled-brown-herringbone-wool-tie-blue-and-cream-stripes.html

 

 

I like this one enough that I would consider getting it despite similarities. They gray/blue provides enough difference.

 

Also:

 

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/accessories/neckties/handrolled-brown-herringbone-wool-tie-navy-and-light-brown-stripes.html

 

 

At 8cm, I suspect these are not too thick and mine tie quite nice knots. Strongly recommended.

 

This one might be too much duplication, but I like the brown/blue color way:

 

 

 

However, my first choice from NMWA given gaps in the rotation would be this gray striped (it's ok if you go ahead an buy it, help Greg clear out the winter stock!). Anyway, hope this lasts until I am allowed to purchase again...

 

 

Some of the TyT gun checks are nice too.

 

I am kicking myself (again!) for missing this Cappelli (@Pliny can shake his head in exasperation; from Exquisite Trimmings of which there are several nice Cappelli wools):

 

 

 

There are others out there, but just a taste...

post #21605 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

There's the tailor's advice thread which I think used to have more posts by Despos and someone else (a Philly based tailor, maybe?), but is still a pretty good source.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions

Looks like Despos still posts there.

It's a valuable resource, for sure, but I was wondering if the pertinent advice was aggregated more succinctly. A cliffs notes of it, as it were.

post #21606 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaJen View Post
 

It's a valuable resource, for sure, but I was wondering if the pertinent advice was aggregated more succinctly. A cliffs notes of it, as it were.


Well, one could assign some homework.

 

Exercise for new posters. Take a picture of yourself from front in good light etc. in a pose duplicated by a favored Noodle's Thread son X. Walk down from head to toe and point out differences, i.e. where favored son looks better. Describe in one sentence the difference. Continue until ground is reached. Repeat for side and back and as necessary until a passing grade is reached in each case.

 

X will grade.

post #21607 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

This Vanda brown challis 

 

Where did you find that Vanda tie? Can't seem to find it on their website. Thanks.

EDIT: Never mind, found it.

post #21608 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post
 

Where did you find that Vanda tie? Can't seem to find it on their website. Thanks.

http://vandafineclothing.com/store/neckties/601-brown-diamonds-wool-challis.html

post #21609 of 37396

Just found it, you beat me to it. Thanks. (:

post #21610 of 37396

TweedyProf, that Vanda brown challis is awesome--reminds me of probably the best tie Henry Carter has made to this point. 

 

One way to brighten up winter fits while still staying seasonal is with good ancient madder.  I've doubled down on brown wool and cashmere recently, but my next tie for fall/winter is this: http://www.pantaclothing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=mad14

 

If you aren't one of those people who hate paisley, this Calabrese from NMWA is a steal:

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/accessories/neckties/forest-green-self-tipped-wool-tie-rust-cream-paisley-print.html

 

If my fall/winter wardobe weren't so dominated by green already, it would be mine. 

 

Great collection that you have already!

post #21611 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Well, one could assign some homework.

 

Exercise for new posters. Take a picture of yourself from front in good light etc. in a pose duplicated by a favored Noodle's Thread son X. Walk down from head to toe and point out differences, i.e. where favored son looks better. Describe in one sentence the difference. Continue until ground is reached. Repeat for side and back and as necessary until a passing grade is reached in each case.

 

X will grade.

Great idea, but where is the incentive? Students rarely do anything without incentive. Which reminds me of a similar exercise I undertook years ago. I taught a special topics grad course on temporal logic. The students whined that I didn't provide typeset notes (seriously!) so I offered extra credit for those who provided typeset notes of prior lessons. I allowed them to drop a question from any homework or test for each lesson reproduced, but if i found any errors I would deduct the same number of points (to put off lazy people out for easy credit). I think I got about half the lesson notes for the course completed this way...then never taught the course again!

post #21612 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaJen View Post
 

Students rarely do anything without incentive.

 

Good grades which lead to getting into a good grad program? Maybe I'm being optimistic. :D

post #21613 of 37396
I think the incentive is looking better and feeling better in your clothes. And if you're a single guy, there are obviously more incentives than this.
post #21614 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaJen View Post
 

Great idea, but where is the incentive? Students rarely do anything without incentive. Which reminds me of a similar exercise I undertook years ago. I taught a special topics grad course on temporal logic. The students whined that I didn't provide typeset notes (seriously!) so I offered extra credit for those who provided typeset notes of prior lessons. I allowed them to drop a question from any homework or test for each lesson reproduced, but if i found any errors I would deduct the same number of points (to put off lazy people out for easy credit). I think I got about half the lesson notes for the course completed this way...then never taught the course again!


SeaJen, for some reason I assumed you were a surprisingly well-dressed engineer not logician (nice move, by the way).

post #21615 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

 

Good grades which lead to getting into a good grad program? Maybe I'm being optimistic. :D

 

That's what I mean. If I advise students to do exercises, readings, etc. for their own good (in the end), but dont grade them on those things right then, they dont do it. As if there is nothing they should be doing that isn't directly graded.

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