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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1385

post #20761 of 37537
Please don't Kake.
post #20762 of 37537

If you only want one suit... 2500 pounds will cover the flight, hotel, suit and some shirts.

post #20763 of 37537
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post


This is always worth doing, and ditto for trouser inseam, outseam, rise, etc.


What makes the shoulder a bit different, however, is that a measurement taken on the outside of the jacket at the shoulder won't necessarily accurately reflect the inside fit.  This is because shoulder structure differs from cut to cut in ways that trousers measurements do not.   In my case, there can be almost .75 inch difference in the shoulder-seam-to-shoulder-seam measurement between a well-fitting unstructured natural shoulder jacket and a well-fitting structured jacket with a bit of extension.  I imagine other aspects of shoulder expression and sleeve head position can make a difference, too.


Shoulders are complicated.





okay I just measured that suit and from seam to seam it is 18inches. Its a 40in chest Paul Smith jacket with a drop of 7. The lapels bulge out a tiny bit when the top button is fastened (2 buttons).

post #20764 of 37537

For $29, Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are absolutely a great place to start.  I own several and wear them amidst much better quality shirts with no hesitation, though I'm not really a passionate shirt guy. 


If your shoulders are 18 inches across and your chest is at or about 39-41 inches, you can and should start out with RTW suits.  Noodles' recommendation of SuitSupply is solid since they have different fits and expressions of shoulder/chest/button stance to accommodate different body types.  Are your arms relatively proportionate to your torso?  If not, Suitsupply off the rack may not work well for you since they come with finished sleeves. 

post #20765 of 37537

@heldentenor, which collar do you have on your CTs? 

post #20766 of 37537

I'm a 42inch chest. The fit on that Paul Smith jacket is only good relative to the parachute jacket of my Kenneth Cole suits. It is a 42 and fits a dream on the shoulders and upper chest but then there is so much space on the rest of the torso it is comical.

post #20767 of 37537
Originally Posted by mdancel View Post

@heldentenor, which collar do you have on your CTs? 



Mine suck. I'd buy a few more at that price if there were better collars out there.

post #20768 of 37537
I think...

So. Bespoke is out the question? I should go OTR. Which designers? I'm also getting strangely excited about shoes...
post #20769 of 37537

Jake you can do bespoke if you fly to Italy.  Just skip the rtw stuff imo.

post #20770 of 37537
Originally Posted by Jake Beds View Post

I think...

So. Bespoke is out the question? I should go OTR. Which designers? I'm also getting strangely excited about shoes...


Check out Suitsupply MTM in their Vigo street (off Savile Row) branch, they might be able to help you. Suits start at 479 for super 100s fabrics. You could get 4 basic MTM suits from suitsupply, 2 pairs of nice Carmina black cap toe oxfords and about 8 Luxire MTM shirts for your 3000 budget.


For the suitsupply MTM, get two basic navy and two basic mid grey suits. Ask them to lower the buttoning point to your natural waist, get the widest lapels, 3 roll 2 buttoning, natural or spalla camicia (pleated) shoulders, side adjusters for the trousers, perhaps a pleat if you're quite muscular, and 2" cuffs.


Flying to Naples could work, but you'd have to be there for at least 3 days to get enough fittings. So, you'll have to take a day off work, get a flight and a hotel for 2 nights. A pretty basic bespoke suit in Naples will cost you about 1000GBP, a flight for the right times/airport around 100-150GBP, a nice hotel around 75-100 for 2 nights, and a day off will cost you however much monetary value you'd attach to that. For me that would be around 100GBP.


So, 2 bespoke suits would cost you around 2300-2400 all in if you go to Naples.

Edited by Monkeyface - 3/20/15 at 3:45pm
post #20771 of 37537
Originally Posted by mdancel View Post

@heldentenor, which collar do you have on your CTs? 



Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post



Mine suck. I'd buy a few more at that price if there were better collars out there.


Mine are nearly all full spread collars from the Egyptian cotton collection (no non-irons).  I have pink with a faint PoW, two staple white shirts that I almost never wear, light blue twill, and sky blue herringbone, all from a couple of seasons ago. 

post #20772 of 37537
Finally, a local(?) Expert has spoken

For shoes, you just have to go and try them on. C&J's???
post #20773 of 37537

post #20774 of 37537
Thread Starter 



Going bespoke at this point is not a good idea. Particularly on such short notice. I'm far from being a novice, and I'd be very hard pressed to put together a successful sartorial adventure--doing all the necessary research and planning--to Naples, or really anywhere in Italy. So I can't imagine trying to do so without previous bespoke experience, a level of comfort with fabrics, and a solid idea of what I like and don't like.


I realize that this is a lot of our sartorial dream and it's fun to live it vicariously. But it's just not the right path for the guy at this moment in time.




@Jake Beds


Monkeyface has given you the best advice to date (though I have a few nitpicks--chiefly that you're better off without Suit Supply's spalla camicia, which is hit or miss). I'll repeat what he said and go into greater detail justifying it.



You are going to need more than one decent suit. At some point, yeah, getting suits made for you at 1500 a pop is probably in your future. But right now, it isn't super practical when you've got viable alternatives available. Building a wardrobe is a long process. Now, if you don't have an immediate need to be wearing suits daily, then yeah, dive into the deep end and get a new suit 2-3 times a year, the best of the best. But that's not really an option. All things considered, start with something like Suit Supply. As you earn more, develop professionally, and develop sartorially, add to your rotation better suits (if you feel the need...there is certainly nothing wrong with Suit Supply...myself and several others around here have no problem wearing Suit Supply one day and bespoke the next). You'll slowly phase out the ones you wear less.


I would suggest trying one MTM from Suit Supply to start. It's very unlikely to not be a disaster, and if it works out, get 3 more. We (this thread) can discuss fabric options in greater detail in the future, but something in navy is definitely a safe bet. All the details MF provided are good ones (lowering button point, wider lapels, 3 roll 2...though there is also nothing wrong with a straight 2 button if that's your preference)



Do you have a workable pair? If so, you need just one more, but ideally two. Shoes need a day or two off. Black is a good option. I don't know that I'd recommend getting two Carmina. But maybe one Carmina and one Loake? Just to be cost effective. I'd get one black and one dark brown. Something like:









Nothing wrong with white. I'd get a few light blue as well. One or two in thin blue stripes, like this:


Luxire is a good place to get shirts, especially if you have a well-fitting shirt that you can send to them to replicate (and make adjustments)



How are you on ties? That's sort of this thread's origin. And my favorite part.

Edited by Claghorn - 3/20/15 at 4:28pm
post #20775 of 37537

@Claghorn I respectfully disagree.  He needs the suits by September... so he definitely has time.  It doesn't take that long to plan out a trip to Naples and contact a tailor.  As for fabric go with a navy or grey or one of each.  Might as well start learning how to do bespoke now as opposed to later.  Also he gets a nice trip to Italy.

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