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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1368

post #20506 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

Actually one of my favourite suits is a very light S180 wool/cashmere blend, a bit comparable to what you describe. I think it looks ok, but judge for yourself:

 

 

 

Really nice suit Elio. Lapel shape and quarters are perfectly balanced. Care to share its provenance with us?

post #20507 of 37392
How do you determine the right sleeve width for a MTM shirt? Proper Cloth's arm hole seems to be determined in most part by the sleeve width. I have small arms, 11 to 11.5 in ø. I'm having a hell of a time getting a good fit in the chest and I think it's due to the arm hole being too low. I've been doing 7.75" for the sleeve width. How small should I go? Thanks!
post #20508 of 37392

Where the heck does @EliodA get his suits from?! Dang I am jealous!

post #20509 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


I really like the look of that suit - I think patch pockets would lend ithemselves nicely to it for s dual purpose relaxed jacket. Very nice ensemble overall btw smile.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

 

Really nice suit Elio. Lapel shape and quarters are perfectly balanced. Care to share its provenance with us?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
 

Where the heck does @EliodA get his suits from?! Dang I am jealous!

 

 

Thanks gentlemen. @jfrater I agree that patch pockets would go well on a summer suit like this. However, IRL the fabric is a really smooth worsted and a bit too businesslike in appearance for patch pockets. (BTW, I just can't say 'cloth', makes me think too much of a rag you wipe the dishes with...)

Personally, I think this is the suit with the best silhouette I own. Geometry and proportions are as good as I could wish. So, to make this a bit of an educational post, I've made a little diagram to demonstrate what in my opinion makes for a great  jacket silhouette.

 

 

 

  1. The buttoning point is around 3 cm above my belly button and is the fulcrum of all geometrical relations. It's precisely halfway between the shoulders and the bottom of the jacket (purple lines)
  2. As you can see from the green lines, the hip and chest pockets are evenly distributed in relation to the buttoning point as well. (As a result the chest pocket is quite a bit lower than what you usually see).
  3. And so the distance between chest pocket and shoulder is the same as between hip pocket and hem. (red lines)
  4. The yellow lines accentuate the V-shaped chest and lapels and the X-like flowing continuation down the front quarters. I believe it's crucial that the outer yellow lines (chest) are at least parallel to the inner ones (lapels) for a pleasing silhouette. Many jackets are worn with too narrow shoulders, especially here on SF because people think that that is a must. But with shoulders that are too narrow, the V by the lapels is sharper than the outside V from the chest, more like an M. That doesn't look so pleasing, I think.
  5. Finally, the shoulder lines and the gorge lines (and in the case of this fit, the shirt collar and even the tie) all converge on a single point on my chin, drawing attention upwards.

 

I'd be interested to hear the opinion of people more experienced than me, or preferably one of SF's resident tailors. Does it make any sense what I'm talking about here, or is it all just a load of bollocks? If so, the least I can say is, it works for me! :) 

post #20510 of 37392
Long story. Where to kop?biggrin.gif
post #20511 of 37392
Because math (well geometry). With colors.
post #20512 of 37392

What does @EliodA do for a living?! Mathematician? Graphic artist? 

post #20513 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

What does @EliodA
 do for a living?! Mathematician? Graphic artist? 
Probably architect
post #20514 of 37392

:spam:


Edited by The Noodles - 3/17/15 at 1:15pm
post #20515 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

What does @EliodA
 do for a living?! Mathematician? Graphic artist? 

Professional baller and man of leisure.
post #20516 of 37392
This arrived today, delighted biggrin.gif

@Anden can you settle something for the Cleav family? Is there green here?

I say yes, Duchess says no, Flower Garden siding with Mother patch[1].gif

Thanks in advance


post #20517 of 37392
Thread Starter 
Green.
post #20518 of 37392
Hurrah, they say grey icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #20519 of 37392

Very nice @Cleav

I see green there! 

post #20520 of 37392
I'm seeing green as well.
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