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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1367

post #20491 of 37429
Tie makers customarily show swatches in the direction of the fabric. The ties however are cut in the bias (45 degrees, not 90). So, assuming the swatches were cut in typical tie maker swatches fashion, it is correct to turn them 45 degrees to see how they would be made up.

Take a look here - you will see how swatches are presented, and then how the silk is cut in the bias.
post #20492 of 37429
I have Hober Macclesfiled #77 (small white dots on midnight blue). The twill runs horizontally but isn't noticeable. This photo is accurate of the layout of the dots and the direction of the twill.

Printed-necktie-77m.jpg?t=1425916089

We probably don't give Greg and team enough credit for those videos. They're really enjoyable!
post #20493 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Tie makers customarily show swatches in the direction of the fabric. The ties however are cut in the bias (45 degrees, not 90). So, assuming the swatches were cut in typical tie maker swatches fashion, it is correct to turn them 45 degrees to see how they would be made up.

Take a look here - you will see how swatches are presented, and then how the silk is cut in the bias.


What a great video! I love my Bigi, and now I want more...

post #20494 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

They are superior in every way.

@sb

You people are so limited in your thinking. Why choose?

post #20495 of 37429
Thread Starter 

Because choice is fun.

post #20496 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

Because choice is fun.

 

So SB is having fun then....

post #20497 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

 
Because choice is fun.

So SB is having fun then....

nod[1].gif
post #20498 of 37429
Okay I have a question: I have enough navy wool/cashmere/vicuna super 200s to make a three piece suit or a double breasted suit. I already have a Brioni solid navy single breasted which I really like. If I get B&T to make something up with it should I go for a double breasted or the three piece? This is the fabric - it's quite a dark one: http://www.yorkshirefabric.com/?product=navy-blue-twill-super-200s-cashmere-vicuna

Furthermore, should I ask for the buttons to be removable so I can swap them out for brass to wear the jacket as a blazer or is the fabric too light for that? If you think I should go for a totally different fabric for the blazer, what would make a really stand-out luxurious and classy blazer? I have three already (though you can never have enough) - all are of a similar fabric - pretty standard all year weight navy. One is double breasted, one is three button, and one is two button. All have patch pockets and all are brass buttoned.

In other good news - I pick up my first bespoke order from the Auckland tailor I went to in two days! I bought a new car so I am driving up tomorrow (9 hours!) I'll be sure to post some pics once I get everything (one jacket, three trousers, one shirt).
post #20499 of 37429
I'm not sure whether that fabric is suitable for trousers. Very high super numbers don't drape that well, and cashmere doesn't drape at all. I'd show the cloth to the tailor and defer to their expertise. It wouldnt be my favourite cloth for a suit, regardless of price.

Just get a 2 piece, single breasted suit to start, so they can work on getting your pattern right. Your first commission is unlikely to be your best anyways. It might even be better to get a less expensive cloth for your first suit, and save this one for the next one.

Ask for a 2 patch pocket jacket with brown horn buttons, so you can wear the jacket separately as a blazer. Swappable buttons is just a hassle, and not worth the risk of it not turning out well with such an expensive cloth. Besides, a sports coat doesn't have to have brass or gold buttons. Brown horn, smoked MOP, etc. are all good options.
post #20500 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

I'm not sure whether that fabric is suitable for trousers. Very high super numbers don't drape that well, and cashmere doesn't drape at all. I'd show the cloth to the tailor and defer to their expertise. It wouldnt be my favourite cloth for a suit, regardless of price.

Just get a 2 piece, single breasted suit to start, so they can work on getting your pattern right. Your first commission is unlikely to be your best anyways.

Ask for a 2 patch pocket jacket with brown horn buttons, so you can wear the jacket separately as a blazer. Swappable buttons is just a hassle, and not worth the risk of it not turning out well with such an exoensive cloth.

They are in the process of making me a suit and an odd jacket already - so we'll be getting the pattern sorted on those. Thanks for the suggestions otherwise. Maybe it is best to go for something simpler (which almost always seems to be the case!)
post #20501 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

They are in the process of making me a suit and an odd jacket already - so we'll be getting the pattern sorted on those. Thanks for the suggestions otherwise. Maybe it is best to go for something simpler (which almost always seems to be the case!)

What is B&T making for you atm? Make sure you get at least two, preferably three fittings for the first one.
post #20502 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

What is B&T making for you atm? Make sure you get at least two, preferably three fittings for the first one.

A two piece suit in brown, an odd jacket in dark brown and navy check (If I recall correctly the fabric is Zegna), and a bespoke shirt (not the MTO they do) in blue cotton. I am not sure when the first fitting will be but I flew to aussie for the measure up just over a month ago.
post #20503 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

A two piece suit in brown, an odd jacket in dark brown and navy check (If I recall correctly the fabric is Zegna), and a bespoke shirt (not the MTO they do) in blue cotton. I am not sure when the first fitting will be but I flew to aussie for the measure up just over a month ago.

Sounds good! I'd wait till those are finished before ordering more. Bring the fabric to the next fitting and ask them if it's suitabke for a suit. If so, a DB might be nice.
post #20504 of 37429

@jfrater, a light weight fabric like that can be made in a suit, but - as MF said - it won't drape so nicely. Due to the climate here, I have selected quite a few suits in very lightweight fabrics and once you're used to the slightly rumply look, there's nothing wrong with it. Looks a bit more relaxed as well, IMO. Actually one of my favourite suits is a very light S180 wool/cashmere blend, a bit comparable to what you describe. I think it looks ok, but judge for yourself:

 

 

Edit: oh, and of course, don't expect any durability from fabrics like that. But you probably know that already....

post #20505 of 37429
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

@jfrater
, a light weight fabric like that can be made in a suit, but - as MF said - it won't drape so nicely. Due to the climate here, I have selected quite a few suits in very lightweight fabrics and once you're used to the slightly rumply look, there's nothing wrong with it. Looks a bit more relaxed as well, IMO. Actually one of my favourite suits is a very light S180 wool/cashmere blend, a bit comparable to what you describe. I think it looks ok, but judge for yourself:




Edit: oh, and of course, don't expect any durability from fabrics like that. But you probably know that already....

I really like the look of that suit - I think patch pockets would lend ithemselves nicely to it for s dual purpose relaxed jacket. Very nice ensemble overall btw smile.gif
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