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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 137

post #2041 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

Well, it depends. If he sees a lot of Field's work and likes what he sees, I don't think there is any problem with Rudals going up and just saying "I want a gray suit in this fabric and you do whatever you think is best."

 

That's true, but still, I'd be hesitant to drop that much money on bespoke without knowing if that is exactly what I want. Your tastes develop and change when you're in the learning phase. I probably wouldn't be happy now with a suit that I had commissioned 2 years ago.

post #2042 of 37392

Like Monkeyface (interesting name) said, I do not know what I want whereas if I were to buy a car, I would know what to look for and know what I want. However, it really seems like if I am going to shell out $3k plus on a suit, might as well go with Mr. Fields because all these trendy RTW suits are..."girly" to put it nicely. If I can see what he has on display and talk things out then we might be able to get to a suit that will most likely be ten times better than a RTW suit. 

post #2043 of 37392

Don't go bespoke yet Rudals. Really, do that if you know what you want or really have the knowledge base, which takes time. I think good taste in clothes is only partly theoretical. It's like learning a language, and you have to try things just like you have to try to produce sentences to learn a language.

 

Anyway: go pottery barn or something similar first. Learn what you like for a fraction of the cost of bespoke. Work up to it.

 

Note: some bespoke tailors have MTM operations (Steed which will run you I think 1500 to 2000 I think (converting from sterling)). If SS MTM is too pottery barn for you, then why not jump up to something just below bespoke? A good local bespoke tailor might do MTM for less, plus you get their expertise. Steed must come to DC and many members use them (Voxsartoria is a famous client, but Umbel uses them as well).

 

That said, did you go to SS (suit supply)?

post #2044 of 37392
A good MTM/bespoke tailor will be able to assist better than some random sales associate.

There's really no harm at least scheduling an appointment and developing a rapport with one. You can describe what you don't like about suits and jackets and go from there.

It's not like these guys need step by step IKEA instructions complete with smiley Swedish faces to make you something.
post #2045 of 37392

No. I was busy planning for the freaking wedding that's been pushed up by like 3 months all of sudden. What is it with people?!

That being said, I might have time to go to BB and try on different stuff. 

See, here's a little something about myself, I have a switch. It is either on or off. I have no middle.

That basically means that I will stay away from mediocre stuff (my apologies to all SS owners) and just go after the most expensive thing that I can get when I do decide to get something. It is a weird mentality. So it is either something like Zegna/Isaia at full retail (not saying they're all that) or something like Hanes (not saying they're...yes, they're cr@p). I don't spend money on the middle stuff. Somebody call me a retard. 

post #2046 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

A good MTM/bespoke tailor will be able to assist better than some random sales associate.

There's really no harm at least scheduling an appointment and developing a rapport with one. You can describe what you don't like about suits and jackets and go from there.

It's not like these guys need step by step IKEA instructions complete with smiley Swedish faces to make you something.

Are we talking about these Swedish gals again?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
comfortable-swedish-football-girls.jpg
post #2047 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

No. I was busy planning for the freaking wedding that's been pushed up by like 3 months all of sudden. What is it with people?!
That being said, I might have time to go to BB and try on different stuff. 
See, here's a little something about myself, I have a switch. It is either on or off. I have no middle.
That basically means that I will stay away from mediocre stuff (my apologies to all SS owners) and just go after the most expensive thing that I can get when I do decide to get something. It is a weird mentality. So it is either something like Zegna/Isaia at full retail (not saying they're all that) or something like Hanes (not saying they're...yes, they're cr@p). I don't spend money on the middle stuff. Somebody call me a retard. 

Then get some real top-notch stuff like Partenopea, Attolini or at least some nice Caruso. Zegna is, most of the time, just overpriced stuff.
post #2048 of 37392
I just tried on a bunch of Sartoria Partenopea at Louis Boston over the weekend. Holy shit. So nice.

I mean, a 100% cashmere SC from them is $5500 but might be one of the best jackets I have ever tried on.
post #2049 of 37392

Sigh...I just wish I could.

post #2050 of 37392
Thread Starter 

I'm not entirely convinced that BB is significantly higher quality than SS. And I'm also not convinced that Zegna is significantly higher quality than BB...or at least that there is enough of a difference to justify the price difference (compared to others available at that price...stuff from NMWA for one).

 

"Rudals" issues aside, how much do you get stuff tailored after you buy it? If you want to go for the more classic look, you may be screwed in finding something OTR that is both classically proportioned while also being trim. I think most folks here that buy OTR will usually spend at least 100 dollars tailoring everything to their specifications.

post #2051 of 37392

F*** SS, BB, Zegna. I'll just go to H&M or Express. They got some nice cheap stuff. $200? Oh yeah~

And I wasn't saying SS is crap nor saying Zegna is the bomb. Hope y'all understood the point I was trying to convey. 

:nest:

 

I've only bought RTW and I usually do end up spending $100 or a bit more to have them tailored. 

 

EDIT: When I say BB, I mean their GF line. I won't even touch their other stuff. 

post #2052 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I'm not entirely convinced that BB is significantly higher quality than SS. And I'm also not convinced that Zegna is significantly higher quality than BB...or at least that there is enough of a difference to justify the price difference (compared to others available at that price...stuff from NMWA for one).

"Rudals" issues aside, how much do you get stuff tailored after you buy it? If you want to go for the more classic look, you may be screwed in finding something OTR that is both classically proportioned while also being trim. I think most folks here that buy OTR will usually spend at least 100 dollars tailoring everything to their specifications.

In my personal experience, BB Golden Fleece and the suits and jackets made with Saxxon wool are much nicer than the SS stuff I tried on. Mind you, I also don't like the SS style at all with the high button stances and such but wanted to see what all the fuss was about.

Anyways, regular BB Fitz and Regent stuff wasn't much different in terms of how it felt in my hands.

I've bought stuff from makers using Zegna fabric but as far as the Ermengildo Zegna line, nah ... not for me.

I never need to tailor much - touch up the sleeves and take in the sides a little and sometimes remove a little excess fabric from up around the back of the collar and that's it. My guy charges about $60 for that.
post #2053 of 37392

I think with SS MTM, Rudals could push the button stance down and the length down. He has to know what he wants, though and then be firm about it. See the jacket I posted with denim a while back (assuming Rudals other upper parts are easy to deal with...the rest I pass over in silence).

 

My SS MTM jacket needs to drop about an inch in length and in stance but the back, shoulders, sleeve pitch etc. are clean. The lapel width is fine (not too skinny).I think my second try (if I ever do it again with them) would be pretty good and at 1/3 the cost of the Zegnas for SS's higher end fabrics (for basic fabrics in navy, the cost will be 1/6th of the Zegnas).

 

The challenge with SS is that there is inertia towards their "modern" fits and you really have to push back, but I think you can.

post #2054 of 37392
Thread Starter 

I think that going with SS MTM would be a good experience for Rudals. Really anyone wanting to stick their toe into bespoke.

 

I have a couple jackets and suits with Zegna fabric. I'm definitely a fan.

post #2055 of 37392
The Suisupply lazio really doesn't have a high button stance, and the perfect lapel shape IMHO. I usually spend about $50-60 at the SS tailor for cuffs and taking in the jacket.

Have you looked at Belvest? Quite nice stuff, and wider lapels as well. I've got a 100% cashmere SC that was £180 on sale. I think it retails for like £1500-2000 though, but a very nice brand if you can find a good sale.
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