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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1298

post #19456 of 37396
I have a Dugdale light grey sharkskin in the works. It's kinda awesome.
post #19457 of 37396
Y only kinda?
post #19458 of 37396
Untempered modesty.
post #19459 of 37396
Sharkskin is only American by name. The Brits call it pick-and-pick and it's a suiting staple there too.
post #19460 of 37396

idk I just like birdseye and end-on-end a lot more.

post #19461 of 37396
Birdseye looks best in blues. Sharkskin looks best in greys. The sharkskin weave takes and keeps creases and shaping a lot better than birdseye.
post #19462 of 37396
I really like the look of grey or charcoal birdseye...
post #19463 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Birdseye looks best in blues. Sharkskin looks best in greys.

+1
post #19464 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

I really like the look of grey or charcoal birdseye...

I'm in jrd617's camp. Though I admit that the lighter grey birdseyes can have too much contrast.
post #19465 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

What is your climate?

• 10 oz. doesn't wear much warmer and drapes more nicely.
• No ticket pocket.
• Birdseye/nailhead is a good weave if you want some visual interest. Sharkskin is a no-brainer. I would stay away from mini-herringbone or any sort of mini-check.
• I would suggest a gray a bit darker than mid-gray

 

Thanks. I, unfortunately, get to swing from single-digits to the mid-80s over the course of a year. But I can wear a heavier suit for the real cold, and I have a few blazers and sportcoats that are wearable in the real heat. So 10 oz is doable.

 

I think the color I'm thinking of is maybe a bit darker than mid-gray -- noticeably lighter than charcoal, that's for sure. Something like this, or a bit darker.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

+1. Seems to be a bit of an iGent fixation, those narrow shoulders. Yes to them, if you're built like an athlete with broad shoulders. No if, like many, your physique does not resemble that of a Greek god and you don't want to emphasise your hips.

When I say narrower, I'm talking about a very small amount. I still want an extended shoulder. But probably that increment is so small that, on first-time MTM with a language barrier, I'm better off not trying to fix what ain't particularly broken.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Birdseye looks best in blues. Sharkskin looks best in greys. The sharkskin weave takes and keeps creases and shaping a lot better than birdseye.

Thanks for this. I'd like a navy birdseye, but hopefully this first commission goes well enough that I order something like that in a little while.

 

So, I think I'm set on a pretty plain gray sharkskin (hopsack as second choice). If the tailor seems to do a nice 3/2 roll, then I'd be happy to do that, but otherwise I'll stick to two buttons. Probably plain edges instead of pick-stitching. I'm thinking I'd like 2 button cuffs.

post #19466 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

 

Thanks. I, unfortunately, get to swing from single-digits to the mid-80s over the course of a year. But I can wear a heavier suit for the real cold, and I have a few blazers and sportcoats that are wearable in the real heat. So 10 oz is doable.

 

I think the color I'm thinking of is maybe a bit darker than mid-gray -- noticeably lighter than charcoal, that's for sure. Something like this, or a bit darker.

 

 

When I say narrower, I'm talking about a very small amount. I still want an extended shoulder. But probably that increment is so small that, on first-time MTM with a language barrier, I'm better off not trying to fix what ain't particularly broken.

 

Thanks for this. I'd like a navy birdseye, but hopefully this first commission goes well enough that I order something like that in a little while.

 

So, I think I'm set on a pretty plain gray sharkskin (hopsack as second choice). If the tailor seems to do a nice 3/2 roll, then I'd be happy to do that, but otherwise I'll stick to two buttons. Probably plain edges instead of pick-stitching. I'm thinking I'd like 2 button cuffs.

 

Did you already contact @Coxsackie? I believe he has some recent experience with tailors in Shanghai and might have some tips for you.

Regarding the shade of grey you're after: considering your complexion, I would stay clear of the lighter shades of grey if I were you. Won't flatter you.

Why would you like half lining if at the same time you're looking for a year round cloth?

And if it's indeed a city suit that you're going to have made, I'd skip the ticket pocket and opt for standard 4 button cuffs (maybe 3 buttons, but not 2). YMMV of course.

post #19467 of 37396

Came across this interesting post while trawling through the now-defunct "CBD WAYWRN" thread here.

 

Thought it would be suitable to resurrect here as it's Noodles' thread after all, and he lives and works in DC. I'm pretty sure he has made similar observations about the DC work dress code.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Cogburn View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I don't know if it's time or place but I see a lot of squares in Manhattan these days. Six years ago when I moved back here, I remember seeing very few. I saw close to none in DC. Where I worked there, no one wore them except me and one other guy who was a huge A&S customer. His attire drew a lot of comments. My boss sometimes remarked on my squares.

I have never had anyone say anything about brown shoes. I think Americans are used to non-black dress shoes. When I was growing up, #8 shell was considered the ultimate dressy shoe. We called it "oxblood." The only times my father wore black shoes was with black tie or to a funeral; that is, until later in his career when doing business with fancy people from LA and back east.

A good example of regional distinctions. In DC, pocket squares are treated almost like ascots. Brown shoes are likewise treated as the shoes one might find on a potato farmer. The capital is extremely conservative ... and extremely poorly dressed at the same time. Think anonymous J.A. Bank. 
post #19468 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

Oh, and a question for the thread:

 

I currently own two "city" suits -- a charcoal pinstripe 3-piece, and a navy 2-piece with peak lapels. I also have a heavy navy herringbone DB.

 

I may have the chance to get a suit made up in Shanghai in a few weeks, if my schedule allows. I'm thinking of getting a fairly light-weight mid-to-dark gray suit, maybe with a vest (depending on the cloth I pick).

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post
 

 

Did you already contact @Coxsackie? I believe he has some recent experience with tailors in Shanghai and might have some tips for you.

Regarding the shade of grey you're after: considering your complexion, I would stay clear of the lighter shades of grey if I were you. Won't flatter you.

Why would you like half lining if at the same time you're looking for a year round cloth?

And if it's indeed a city suit that you're going to have made, I'd skip the ticket pocket and opt for standard 4 button cuffs (maybe 3 buttons, but not 2). YMMV of course.

 

@YRR92, I hope you're not proposing to use the South Bund Fabric Market for your suit. Yes, it will cost you under US$100 if you negotiate hard. No, it will not be a good suit.

 

There's a string of slightly higher-end tailoring shops along Maoming Road just north of HuaiHai Road. The generally-acknowledged "best" bespoke tailor in Shanghai is still WW Chan, but the actual work is done in their HK sweatshop and you would need to be in Shanghai for a while if you're planning the full basted-forward-final fitting routine.

 

There are a few slightly cheaper options too. I had my own bespoke suit made up by Stel Lee Bespoke and I can put you in touch with them if you like. They don't have a wide range of the best English and Italian fabrics, but they do stock Marzoni which is an Italian-designed, China-woven fabric at very reasonable price. Alternatively, you could bring your own cloth, if you have the time and inclination to organise this in advance.

 

Also check out this very informative thread on ShanghaiExpat.com: http://www.shanghaiexpat.com/phpbbforum/best-place-to-get-tailor-made-suites-shirts-t128096.html

 

(If you read carefully you'll probably be able to work out my username on that site...)

post #19469 of 37396

I got a few swatch books from Dugdale being the loyal customer that I am and I highly recommend using them as the default go-to unless you're looking for some more specific fabric. They are robust, good quality, and reliable, if not extremely fancy. If you're going to use tailors who take CMT I've found it a lot cheaper to use Dugdale, again, unless I was looking for something specific.

post #19470 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

Untempered modesty.

Lolwat
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