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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1292

post #19366 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post


Your experience is different from mine. I find no difference in the size of the sleeve head between a regular shoulder and shirred shoulder when controlled for the same maker. I find the amount of drape has greater effect on comfort during movement than the size of the sleeve head.

 

+1. If anything, a roped shoulder (combined with a fuller sleeve) gives a bit more room. I have one suit with a spalla camicia shoulder in the same width as my suits with roped shoulders and it actually gives me less room around the shoulders.

post #19367 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Your experience is different from mine. I find no difference in the size of the sleeve head between a regular shoulder and shirred shoulder when controlled for the same maker. I find the amount of drape has greater effect on comfort during movement than the size of the sleeve head.

Drape is very important, but I have 2 suits from the same maker, one with a bigger sleeve head than the other, and it does make a difference. I really like the comfort of the larger sleeve.
post #19368 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

c) turns out I was way overthinking how my outfits appear when recorded. The camera is way too far away for anything but color to show up (a big lecture hall that can hold 300 students)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaJen View Post

Undoubtedly it isnt your decision, but recorded lectures as a format for OL education is terrible, regardless of the production quality. Short multimedia pieces are okay and can help make a personal connection to the students in what is often an impersonal environment, but that's about the limit. The didactic style just doesn't translate to online. Better to adopt an active learning or discussion learning approach.

 

I have the answer. Shoot with two cameras. For the online production, occasionally cut away to the front row of the audience, consisting entirely of young Asian girls with thick spectacles looking all dreamy and high on oxytocin.

post #19369 of 37392
Hi Gents! The other day, Sander suggested that a darker PS would be better for this …
Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

New tie today via eBay…
E.G Cappelli


Unintentional Yukio Akamine impression (Click to show)

To my eye, I didn't see any at Shibumi that would work, but ended up getting two others and 3 pair of socks smile.gif

Would any of these from Kent Wang work better? If not, what else should I look for? Thanks!!!

navy.jpg

15610204367_277ee0b46e_k.jpg

9676355728_5d51e1172b_b.jpg

img_1461.jpg
post #19370 of 37392

TBH, none of those. 1 is too same-same with the tie (although it might just work here as it's a slightly lighter hue); 2 picks up the jacket colour, but you would have to stuff it so that the black bits poke out to reference the dark tie, which could be tricky; 3 is too colourful; 4 is not colourful enough.

post #19371 of 37392
NS1 - Jacket looks good to me.

Clags - That still from the vid is super awesome.

Unbel - I used to have pointy chukkas. Sold em.
post #19372 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


Unbel - I used to have pointy chukkas. Sold em.

You don't have tiny feet smile.gif
post #19373 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Unbel - I used to have pointy chukkas. Sold em.

because they looked like elf shoes? nod[1].gif
post #19374 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

You don't have tiny feet smile.gif

That's very true.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

because they looked like elf shoes? nod[1].gif

Because I needed money.
post #19375 of 37392

Quick one. Who bespeaks a suit: the client, or his tailor?

post #19376 of 37392
post #19377 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Quick one. Who bespeaks a suit: the client, or his tailor?

I believe the client. He be speaks (tells over) his request to the tailor. So I read somewhere once anyways.
post #19378 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Quick one. Who bespeaks a suit: the client, or his tailor?

I believe the client. He be speaks (tells over) his request to the tailor. So I read somewhere once anyways.

 

Yes.

 

From the OED:

 

“Bespeak” (v.):

“5.  To speak for;  to arrange for, engage beforehand; to ‘order’ (goods),” p. 822.

 

“Bespoken” (adj.):

“2.  Ordered, commissioned, arranged for,” p. 822.

 

Regarding the kind of thing which could be bespoken in a tailoring context, I believe originally it wasn’t an article of clothing but the piece of cloth from which it was made.  I don’t have a reference for that at hand, however.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #19379 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

TBH, none of those. 1 is too same-same with the tie (although it might just work here as it's a slightly lighter hue); 2 picks up the jacket colour, but you would have to stuff it so that the black bits poke out to reference the dark tie, which could be tricky; 3 is too colourful; 4 is not colourful enough.

Thanks Coxsackie! I was thinking the same, but was hoping I could get some ideas of what would be better. I was thinking maybe an unrelated color, like a rust or burnt orange … or maybe a light/dark mix of blues?
Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

Hi Gents! The other day, Sander suggested that a darker PS would be better for this … Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
To my eye, I didn't see any at Shibumi that would work, but ended up getting two others and 3 pair of socks smile.gif

Would any of these from Kent Wang work better? If not, what else should I look for? Thanks!!!

navy.jpg

15610204367_277ee0b46e_k.jpg

9676355728_5d51e1172b_b.jpg

img_1461.jpg
post #19380 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Regarding the kind of thing which could be bespoken in a tailoring context, I believe originally it wasn’t an article of clothing but the piece of cloth from which it was made.  I don’t have a reference for that at hand, however.
It sounds plausible to me. Historically, wasn't much clothing "bespoke," in that there were no department stores with racks and racks of items in semi-standardized sizes? I understand that items were often run up by a female family member, or tailor, or servant (for the wealthy) on a one off basis. So obtaining an individualized fit (not necessarily a good fit, of course, since not everyone's skills or attention to detail in this area were particularly impressive) was the norm. But choosing the particular piece of cloth to be used would have represented a step beyond this norm.

I couldn't say exactly when OTR become common. I do know that Brooks Brothers claims to have introduced the ready to wear suit to American customers.

And, of course, the transition from to buying OTR clothing couldn't have taken place in an instant. Also, I would imagine different strata of society may have embraced this transition at different rates. And I'm guessing geography might also have been a factor - 19th century New York, Baltimore, Philadelphia, San Francisco, etc., were almost a completely different world from West Texas, Alabama, Oregon, etc. (The gulf was greater, in most ways, than it is today.)

But anyway, in an era where OTR suits were largely unknown, suits would be, by default, bespoke. So there was little need to distinguish a suit of this normal type, by specifically referring to it as "bespoke."

Well, that's my chain of reasoning. But I'm no expert on the history of clothing, so if anyone cares to correct some grievous misunderstanding on my part, feel free.
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