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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1289

post #19321 of 37403
Sending your jacket is fine. FedEx/DHL will pick up your package, and it'll be in India two days later. As long as you don't use local companies, but one of the big international ones you'll be fine. You can pay on their website, and they'll email you a shipping label and will schedule a pick up.

I would start with a cheap fabric as well. I took advantage of a $200 sale they had two weeks a ago. The fabric is currently being woven in Japan, but once it's done I'll use it to replicate my jacket. If that works out I'll start using more expensive fabrics.

I'm not really afraid of Luxire being able to copy the measurements and make a well fitting jacket. They've shown that they can do that. It's the details that I'm a bit worried about. Buttonholes, spalla camicia shoulders, etc.

Either way, I can't really complain for $200. If it doesn't turn out as well as I had hoped, I'll have to get jackets made locally and the trousers in India. It would save me about £700 per suit, so definitely worth it.

EFV had a suit made by Luxire, so perhaps you could ask him about his experiences?
post #19322 of 37403
I can vouch for Luxire's abilities to replicate the fit of an existing jacket. I would start with a cheaper fabric though, just like MF suggested.

post #19323 of 37403
Thanks MF. I thought you already had a Partenopea jacket replicated? Anyway, I remember having seen a thread here from a guy who'd sent his Attolini jacket to Luxire. Apparently they got it very close, but of course, construction wise it was a bit less refined. Can't find the thread anymore, neither do I remember the name of the poster. frown.gif
post #19324 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

I can vouch for Luxire's abilities to replicate the fit of an existing jacket. I would start with a cheaper fabric though, just like MF suggested.

That look great, Erik. What is your view on the construction quality?
(I realize that I should probably take my questions to the Luxire thread, apologies...)
post #19325 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Cox, from left, 2, 5, 7, 10, are my faves.

 

Curiously, that numbering identifies the same ties whether you start from left or right.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

Yup, it's good quality shirts. If you like the design I'd recommend them. There are shirts in the same price ratio with more "artisanal" qualities though. They've done a very interesting colab with Eidos.

BTW, met their head designers last month, very nice guys:

 

Some wag re-captioned this photo as: "When you forget which hand you had the cigarette in."

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

I can vouch for Luxire's abilities to replicate the fit of an existing jacket. I would start with a cheaper fabric though, just like MF suggested.

 

@Monkeyface , I'd say the above photo should put paid to your concerns about whether Luxire can execute a spalla camicia shoulder.

 

(By the way, in case anybody didn't already know, the second word is pronounced "ca-MITCH-eeya". I only found this out when an Italian tailor corrected my mispronunciation in a store the other day.)

post #19326 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

That look great, Erik. What is your view on the construction quality?
(I realize that I should probably take my questions to the Luxire thread, apologies...)

The good thing about Luxire is that they'll always try to give you the best quality they can manage. What they lack in experience they compensate for in enthusiasm (and they're getting more experienced as we speak). They managed to get the fit spot on, the shoulders are just great, and they made all the details I asked for. The jacket is well constructed. The only things that weren't spot on were the hand sewn button holes, where they didn't seem to use proper button hole gimp (a thicker thread to get "cleaner" button hole stitching) & my jacket came with a slight collar gap that wasn't there in my reference jacket.

I suspect that these "issues" could be avoided by just being very specific in your instructions + adding pictures of yourself in different angles.
Edited by EFV - 2/20/15 at 5:20am
post #19327 of 37403

Thanks Erik, very useful info!

:fistbump:

 

 

post #19328 of 37403
One more thing you should address with them is the notch design. The ones I have seen have the collar joining the lapel piece at a 90 degree angle. No problem if you like that design, but I'd prefer something slightly acute.
post #19329 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post


@Monkeyface
 , I'd say the above photo should put paid to your concerns about whether Luxire can execute a spalla camicia shoulder.
I was going to post the opposite statement confused.gif
post #19330 of 37403

Well, you should know! But then @EFV has just told us "the shoulders are great". And he's in the game too.

 

Can you be more specific about what faults you see?

post #19331 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

Well, you should know! But then @EFV has just told us "the shoulders are great". And he's in the game too.

 

Can you be more specific about what faults you see?

 

I'm not claiming to be an expert, or more an expert than anyone.  It's just my personal opinion looking at that shoulder.  I would probably caution against going for a spalla camicia based on that picture, and maybe revert to something a little simpler.

 

I'm not sure I can explain why that shoulder is not well executed, because it is an aesthetic point of view.  Just like a buttonhole can look beautiful or grossly done, so can a shoulder.   Objectively speaking, it is shirred and the seam is lapped - so nothing is missing.  But the whole look look forced and maybe exaggerated?  Too many tiny pleats, a lapped seam with stitching that looks overly visible?  The way the sleevehead seam is pressed?  Again, I don't know if it can be explained with specifics - it just doesn't look like the elegant spalla camicie I am used to seeing from Neapolitan tailors.

post #19332 of 37403
I was mainly talking about the fit of the shoulders. They've made them to look like spalla camicia, but the construction is actually not quite accurate. I have no doubt they would get them right if you'd send them a picture of how the seams are supposed to lap. I think their products have evolved immensely since they started up. They're eager to learn and progress.

I'm very happy to use them to try out some new design ideas, since their patience for experiments seems endless.
post #19333 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Curiously, that numbering identifies the same ties whether you start from left or right.

That is amazing.
post #19334 of 37403

Thanks gents for those answers. I'm learning here. I love the look of spalla camicia shoulders, but have tried many on and found that few suit me. I then went and bought a SuitSupply "La Spalla" suit, only to find when I got home that one of the shoulders looked stoopid.

 

 

Stoopid. (Click to show)

 

 

Fortunately my tailor was able to fix this, but while the result was excellent, he was unable or perhaps unwilling to replicate the "waterfall" look.

 

It seems like this is a very difficult shoulder expression to get right. Perhaps only the Neapolitans have the true knack.

post #19335 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

I'm not claiming to be an expert, or more an expert than anyone.  It's just my personal opinion looking at that shoulder.  I would probably caution against going for a spalla camicia based on that picture, and maybe revert to something a little simpler.

I'm not sure I can explain why that shoulder is not well executed, because it is an aesthetic point of view.  Just like a buttonhole can look beautiful or grossly done, so can a shoulder.   Objectively speaking, it is shirred and the seam is lapped - so nothing is missing.  But the whole look look forced and maybe exaggerated?  Too many tiny pleats, a lapped seam with stitching that looks overly visible?  The way the sleevehead seam is pressed?  Again, I don't know if it can be explained with specifics - it just doesn't look like the elegant spalla camicie I am used to seeing from Neapolitan tailors.

Yeah, it looks very different from the shoulders on my suits. I'm willing to risk $200 though, and I'll send in a jacket along with some diagrams. Perhaps if they can see a proper spalla camicia shoulder they can figure out how it's supposed to look? I don't think they've ever seen one before.
Perhaps I'll have the buttonholes made by someone else as well. Should be around £10 a pop, and it only needs 4 buttonholes, so the cost isn't too bad.

However, if it turns out well, a Luxire MTM suit will cost me around £600. A steed MTM suit in the same fabrics is around £1800-2000. If Luxire doesn't turn out well, I'll only order the pants from Luxire, and the jackets from Steed. That way a suit will cost me around £1250.

I might very well find out that Steed offers the better deal, and all I'll have lost is $200 jacket. Besides, it wouldn't be unwearable, and it's in a casual Japanese cotton anyways.
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