or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1255

post #18811 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGoCrimson View Post
 

I went to REI to buy a bag of chalk the other week. Otherwise this area is just about dead for shopping

rock climbing?

post #18812 of 37392
It's starting to get a bit colder here so today I wore Harris Tweed! The shirt is my test shirt from Luxire in blue linen. It's based around a mix of Liverano and Borrelli Royal.

post #18813 of 37392
Thread Starter 

Top block is fabulous. I'm hoping for mid-gray flannel trousers.

post #18814 of 37392

@jfrater , the weather in Sydney next week is predicted to be hot, and it will most likely also be humid. So don't overdress.

 

I will pass on the La Vera suit. It's interesting to get that feedback, especially the detailed critique from Elio - many thanks. The suit really did fit better on me than just about any RTW I can remember trying on in a store, with the possible exception of Canali - however, their cut is a little boxy and usually requires some alterations through the waist to look ok on me.

 

Ultimately, a dark charcoal CBD suit is really something I don't need, and I'm very curious to see if incontro and the B&T people can really solve these fit issues of mine. Especially the bowed lapels thing. My understanding of geometry tells me that for a lapel to sit visually straight on me, the edge would actually have to bow inwards (i.e. towards the midline) when laid on a flat surface. A straight-edge lapel will always appear to bow outwards no matter how perfectly flush it sits on my chest. I can't imagine a tailor deliberately fashioning a lapel this way, but maybe they will!

 

As to fabric choice, I have plenty of windowpanes and stripes, so I will go with a weave that resolves to plain. However, I may get a little funky with colour and texture. Someone suggested the blue-grey Scabal donegal of NOBD's well-liked suit. That fabric is around 12oz weight which is too heavy for Australia, but incontro has advised me that they have lighter Scabal fabrics I can look at. I will go for SB, 3-roll-2 notch lapels, spalla camicia shoulder expression, high armholes with full arms, double vents, high trouser rise, wide trouser band with side adjusters, single reverse pleats, fairly slim legs (I don't have big thighs), 2in cuffs. I will take a couple of jackets and trousers that I think hang well on me - although that's probably not necessary.

 

Quick question: for trousers with side adjusters, is it silly to also have internal buttons affixed for braces/suspenders?

post #18815 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

@jfrater , the weather in Sydney next week is predicted to be hot, and it will most likely also be humid. So don't overdress.

 

I will pass on the La Vera suit. It's interesting to get that feedback, especially the detailed critique from Elio - many thanks. The suit really did fit better on me than just about any RTW I can remember trying on in a store, with the possible exception of Canali - however, their cut is a little boxy and usually requires some alterations through the waist to look ok on me.

 

Ultimately, a dark charcoal CBD suit is really something I don't need, and I'm very curious to see if incontro and the B&T people can really solve these fit issues of mine. Especially the bowed lapels thing. My understanding of geometry tells me that for a lapel to sit visually straight on me, the edge would actually have to bow inwards (i.e. towards the midline) when laid on a flat surface. A straight-edge lapel will always appear to bow outwards no matter how perfectly flush it sits on my chest. I can't imagine a tailor deliberately fashioning a lapel this way, but maybe they will!

 

As to fabric choice, I have plenty of windowpanes and stripes, so I will go with a weave that resolves to plain. However, I may get a little funky with colour and texture. Someone suggested the blue-grey Scabal donegal of NOBD's well-liked suit. That fabric is around 12oz weight which is too heavy for Australia, but incontro has advised me that they have lighter Scabal fabrics I can look at. I will go for SB, 3-roll-2 notch lapels, spalla camicia shoulder expression, high armholes with full arms, double vents, high trouser rise, wide trouser band with side adjusters, single reverse pleats, fairly slim legs (I don't have big thighs), 2in cuffs. I will take a couple of jackets and trousers that I think hang well on me - although that's probably not necessary.

 

Quick question: for trousers with side adjusters, is it silly to also have internal buttons affixed for braces/suspenders?

 

Nope, the buttons are nice to have, just in case.

post #18816 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

I'm curious what the feeling is here regarding DB odd jackets/blazers. I've been noodling (not sure if I'm using that correctly), about a summer jacket in linen or open weave wool; in cream or blue. I think I've seen some examples with patch hip pockets as well. Would a DB blazer suit be too much?

Also, should DB's be avoided if you're short? I'm 5'5", but thin, and you always hear stuff about keeping everything vertical, no extra pockets, buttons etc.

Any thoughts??

DB navy blazers are awesome. DB linen sport coats are awesome. DB BlazerSuit would be pretty cool too if that's your thing. I generally don't like DB odd jackets that aren't blazers or summery linen ones.

I don't think a well-cut DB jacket will make one look any shorter than a similarly well-cut SB jacket. I am 5ft7 and wouldn't for a second consider not getting a DB that I wanted on account of height. I think that having a bit less space (not a lot, it has to be subtle) between the 4 buttons at the bottom of a DB jacket may help a bit for shorter men, as it will result in a slightly longer and more vertically oriented lapel.
post #18817 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Top block is fabulous. I'm hoping for mid-gray flannel trousers.

But tweed jacket with linen shirt makes no sense...
post #18818 of 37392
Thread Starter 
That stuff has never really bothered me.
post #18819 of 37392
post #18820 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

DB navy blazers are awesome. DB linen sport coats are awesome. DB BlazerSuit would be pretty cool too if that's your thing. I generally don't like DB odd jackets that aren't blazers or summery linen ones.

I don't think a well-cut DB jacket will make one look any shorter than a similarly well-cut SB jacket. I am 5ft7 and wouldn't for a second consider not getting a DB that I wanted on account of height. I think that having a bit less space (not a lot, it has to be subtle) between the 4 buttons at the bottom of a DB jacket may help a bit for shorter men, as it will result in a slightly longer and more vertically oriented lapel.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement! It's nice to get feedback on these things. I was thinking the same, but didn't trust whether I was thinking about something that would be right for me, or just romanticising. I'm not sure a linen DB BlazerSuit would be my thing or not. I think it might be worth a try though since I could always use them separately. Thanks again!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post


I've been lusting after a linen DB for the summer. White or light blue. Seriously.

I'm right with ya! I'd love a white linen DB too, but last year I bought a SuitSupply linen SC that's pretty white, but not quite an optic white. I find it kinda hard to pull off. In the top block, there's either not enough contrast or too much. I probably need to expand my wardrobe a bit and give it more experimentation, but I think a light cream will be easier for me to pair up. How would you wear it? I'd love get your take on this. Thanks!
post #18821 of 37392
I will expound a bit tomorrow in my thread devoted to the topic, but I just wanted to share a pic from my recent trip to Dallas biggrin.gif

post #18822 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newcomer View Post

I will expound a bit tomorrow in my thread devoted to the topic, but I just wanted to share a pic from my recent trip to Dallas biggrin.gif
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Looks very promising, can't wait to see more! :slayer:

post #18823 of 37392
I so want a FU suit from bnt.
post #18824 of 37392

Looking really nice @Newcomer

 

------

 

In less important news, I was browsing my go-to spot for socks and saw HY is taking it to another level...

 

http://www.howardyount.com/collections/socks/products/grenadine-cotton-otc-socks-navy

post #18825 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Another thread that didn't go very far.   

The most important takeaway from that thread was the year-round suitability of linen shirts.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)