or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 126

post #1876 of 37365
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post

Groin wrinkle lol maybe my junk or due to the pants not being ironed not sure. The camera is tilted so maybe my legs look stubby because of that or because they're unhemmed. I usually wear 42l pants 38 waist 32 length which these are a 38 with 35 inseam so there's a ton of length room. Maybe its a weird angle.

holy crap! 38 waist?!! You're skinnier than me! Ugh...I'll cut back on the burgers, chips, and beers. I am 31. 



Clearly I am buzzed/drunk now. 


Junglethug, I am glad you are active and picking up nice stuff. But I've only seen one WAYWRN from you thus far. 

post #1877 of 37365
jungleroller, looks like you just need to have the pants hemmed and you're ready to go. The sleeves look just about perfect.
post #1878 of 37365
Originally Posted by Sundance View Post

CBD Tie Primer

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hello everybody!

First of all, let me say that lurking this thread has been thoroughly enjoyable. Without distracting too much from the proceedings, I’d appreciate it greatly if yall could help orient me a little on CBD ties. I don’t want to interrupt too much or redirect the conversation so even short and sweet advice is appreciated. All thoughts welcome, and thank you in advance!


Here’s the situation: while I don’t currently own a single stitch of CBD, in a few months I’m moving into a conservative field and need to enter with at least a starter wardrobe—and though I basically understand the ‘standards’ for suits and shoes I’m a little lost on ties. With very little disposable income on hand, I need to start slowly and carefully, prioritizing unassuming pieces for maximum replay value. This thread has provided lots of great advice on particulars, but I haven’t really been able to figure out the underlying theory of the most basic options. I reckon I just haven’t had the long-term daily exposure to CBD required to internalize the rules, so I need a cheat sheet to get me started. Can yall help me out?

Question 1: RULES

Here’s the best I can figure:

CBD colors:

1. Navy

2. Burgundy



CBD styles:

1. Solid (/grenadine)

2. Repp stripe

3. Pindot

4. Neat


Question 2: COLLECTION

I’ve seen some folks on here say they couldn’t possibly get by with fewer than 50 ties, but that kind of “minimum” number is unattainable to me at this point in time. So what’s actually the barest acceptable collection for daily wear? I don’t really care about special-occasion ties (“you need to have a shepherd’s check for a wedding!”) or anything seasonal (“wool for winter!”), just those maximally functional for weekday business year-round. Maybe sixteen, for a three-week rotation? I’ll assume that number for the sake of argument but tell me if I need to adjust my parameters.

So, buying no more than one batch of four ties each quarter, how would you build out a sixteen-count set of CBD ties over the course of a year? Batch #1 is going to see a lot of repetition. Specific suggestions welcome, but please keep in mind that no matter how lovely I find some of the ties that showed up earlier in the thread (Cappelli, Drakes), I can’t really spend more than $80 apiece—so Hober’s about my limit. For grounding the palette assume a navy suit, black shoes, solid blue or white shirt—again I can’t do more than basics. My initial, unfinished list below, with lots of navy (blame my limited visual imagination and determination to hew as conservative as possible). I welcome any suggestions yall may have.

1. Navy grenadine

2. Burgundy grenadine

3. Black grenadine

4. Navy/white repp


5. Navy/white pindot

6. Burgundy neat

7. Navy/green repp

8. Dark brown grenadine


9. Navy neat

10. ?

11. ?

12. ?


13. ?

14. ?

15. ?

16. ?

I would strongly recommend against grenadines for three of your first four ties. They're relatively fragile, and you'll be wearing them very frequently. If you're looking at Hober, consider these four or similar:





If you think you'll wear more gray than blue suits, then swap the black pindot for a navy pindot.
post #1879 of 37365
Also, since you have time before you'll need these ties, maybe eBay can get you a lower unit cost so that you can buy a few more ties for your rotation.
post #1880 of 37365
^ Don't understand the whole grenadines are fragile thing. I've had some Hober grenadines that I've worn fairly often for 7 years that look fine. If you take good care of your clothes, I don't think having a number of grenadines is in any way problematic.
post #1881 of 37365
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Only pair of black shoes needed for now is the oxfords. I'm not a fan of oxfords without a tie, so I guess I don't think a pair of brown semi-brogue oxfords are actually that useful for him.


Always better to be one step too formal than one step too casual.  The thing is, even though he only wears a suit once or twice a week, he is likely to need suit-appropriate shoes on consecutive days now and then, and also perhaps to want want pair for the day time, and keep his black caps fresh for an evening event.  Two pairs of oxfords is hardly excessive.  I guess we all have our own rules - I've never heard anyone object to closed lacing without a tie though!  I'd wear these with an odd jacket and no tie.  Heck, I'd wear them with chinos and a polo shirt. :)


Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Despite all this, I wouldn't recommend them for just a 5 shoe rotation. Get some boots in dark to medium brown, maybe Meermin's suede or country calf boots. They're much more useful, and you'll wear them much more often. Once you've got enough 'staple' shoes you can start looking at fun ones like these.


Sorry the link wasn't clear - it's at the top of the description "The wild card".  These are indeed Justin "The Shoe Snob" Fitzpatrick's own line.  You're right, there is nothing whatsoever essential about these boots, even if you have twenty pairs.  The point was that with a couple of pairs already - one very casual, one more versatile, and the addition of these four for a grand - LTBR would be all done on "need", and after that it's about expression and fun and variety.  There are certainly more versatile and perhaps more suitable boots for his style, but I think the important thing is to consider stepping off the tracks a bit when the basics are taken care of, whether it's a burgundy budapester or vintage crocodile loafers. :)


Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Speaking of, Rudals, you'd look excellent in some Kent Wang oxfords. The last suits you.


You only say that because he's Asian.  Sheesh.  Next you'll be suggesting underwear cut for a smaller packet.


But seriously.  I thought of KW for LTBR's list, but they were a touch more expensive and would have messed up my neat arithmetic!  I've not seen them in person, but some pics of the hand-grade Ilcea calf numbers really blew me away.  My only quibble here is that the plain toe black oxford is actually a bit of an oddity.  Highly polished with a dinner suit/tuxedo and some satin laces it could be quite striking.  But it's inherently non-traditional so just slightly off the mark for CBD I'd say.  A minor detail, though.  The brown one is lovely: if the Noodle is doing brown shoes for work, then I guess my previous observation on the black plain toe is moot too, but either way these are as smart as a brown shoe can be.


Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

Is this CBD? Forgot I had these.


My observations on these are the same as the RL ones you posted earlier.  But worse.  Get a grip man.  If you want this style, at least get something with substance and shape (see above).


Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I...am gonna work out tomorrow but...today I am just gonna drink and enjoy. Cheers


1.  Did you say earlier that you have a 38" waist?  I thought you had a 38" chest?!


2.  Your workout plan involves changing in and out of lots of suits and photographing them, to the rhythm of piped background music all over Georgetown.  Leave your credit card at home.

post #1882 of 37365
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post


Basically, open lacing is more informal, more country. Derbies are fine with casual suits, but you'd be hard pressed to see them with business suits in London. It's a rule you can choose to ignore, but "technically" you'd be in the wrong, not that there's anything wrong with that. Anyway, if you're getting black captoe shoes, getting them as a derby is just incongruous to me.


RLBL is not a shoemaker, so who made those shoes? For $700 you might have been able to cop a hell of a lot nicer shoes!


Edward Green:



Very elegant

post #1883 of 37365
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I would strongly recommend against grenadines for three of your first four ties. They're relatively fragile, and you'll be wearing them very frequently. If you're looking at Hober, consider these four or similar:

Bit dull, beautiful, beautiful, funerals.


I do get your point about the grenadines - not that they'll fall apart, but they can get stretched out of shape a bit and need some rest to let the creases drop out.  But my objection to his getting a pile of grenadines is purely aesthetic.  They are solids, even though they are nice solids, and what he needs in his life is some more nice classy patterns.  A couple of grenades is wonderful, but I'd take your suggestion of those two delicious Macclesfields, a navy pindot as he likes them, and a black tie for funerals and official mourning, ahead of the grenadines by a mile.  Quite right.  Listen to Uncle Butch, Noodles.  I also set great store by his opinion.

post #1884 of 37365

With all this tie talk (yes, I'm still not done yet), could I throw in a quick question, please?


This one in 3-fold or 6-fold, the latter tipped or un-tipped w/ rolled edges? 




(PS: and better no one tells me it was a shitty choice to begin with...)

post #1885 of 37365

As brown neats go, actually I don't love it: the way the different coloured flowers are aligned in diagonal rows makes it act like a stripe, and I don't like the effect that much.  But it's not my tie.  And it's OK.


Anyway, to answer the question, it doesn't really matter.  Three fold and self-tipped will hang more stiffly, and be more resilient if you tend to treat your ties with less than optimum tenderness.  Six fold and self-tipped makes it a more natural look but also more delicate - that hand-rolled curly edge might need gentle pressing now and then, and if you twist and squash your tie and those complicated folds get into a muddle...oh my...


The bottom line is that nobody outside SF, nor mostly in it, will notice the difference unless you make a point of it.  But you will know, so go with what fits your life and love.

post #1886 of 37365

heartfelt thanks. i was on the border with the striped design. hmm. 

post #1887 of 37365
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post

With all this tie talk (yes, I'm still not done yet), could I throw in a quick question, please?

This one in 3-fold or 6-fold, the latter tipped or un-tipped w/ rolled edges? 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show) (PS: and better no one tells me it was a shitty choice to begin with...)

I have this brown neat 3 fold with un-tipped w/rolled edges and really is a great tie.

post #1888 of 37365
Thanks a lot, mate, looks very good.

As far as Grenadine constructions go, I seem to recall @Claghorn saying that he would go for other than 3F next time for SH, 4F or 5F, with thinnest lining? Can anyone chip in?
Edited by DeSense - 2/8/14 at 5:54am
post #1889 of 37365
Oh bummer. I just woke up to the fact that I have really crappy shoes. I want to jump off from my deck. $/@_#&$^$#! $

My waist size is 31 but it just got bigger from last night.

Uncle Nemo, ur comment about the small packet undies was a low blow. Please apologize to my package.

I am gonna get some Cordovans and kick some CBD ass
Edited by Rudals - 2/8/14 at 5:38am
post #1890 of 37365
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I am gonna get some Cordovans and kick some CBD ass

Patience Rudals! Especially after a late night binge of Thor and Tostitos (actually how was the movie?).


Let's talk about the "one" shoe for you before you buy something.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)