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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1234

post #18496 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

You should read my interview, of course ^_^

I'd advocate a suit slightly lighter than navy with a subtle but interesting texture.

Birdseye flannel...
post #18497 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

You should read my interview, of course ^_^

I'd advocate a suit slightly lighter than navy with a subtle but interesting texture.

Great interview - I just read it and all the comments!

What do you think of these two options?


post #18498 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

More important: choose a shoulder expression that flatters your body type. I know, spalla camicia is the iGent thing at the moment, but you see too many guys with sloping or narrow shoulders with them. And they look ridiculous... YMMV etc.

Agreed, and worth considering this sentiment for more than just shoulder type.
post #18499 of 37396
Spalla camicia is separate from shoulder extension for narrow shoulders and shoulder padding for sloped shoulders.
post #18500 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeakMonday View Post

Spalla camicia is separate from shoulder extension for narrow shoulders and shoulder padding for sloped shoulders.

 

I wasn't talking about extensions or padding, which indeed should also be taken into consideration

post #18501 of 37396

Not a tailor of course, but my guess is that a spalla camicia sleeve head would look odd attached to a heavily padded upper shoulder.

 

Also, a more constructed shoulder definitely adds width for a given "seam-to-seam" measurement.

 

I take WM's point though, that shoulder padding and sleeve head construction are two separate things.

post #18502 of 37396
post #18503 of 37396

I've tried on a few spalla camicia jackets (RTW) and note that in a 52 (pretty much my correct size) the shoulders are often cut too wide for me. Size 50 will fit my shoulders perfectly but then the jacket is tight around my chest.

 

I suppose this means my chest is too big for my shoulders. Time for some MTM/bespoke lovin' I guess...

 

But what it also means is that this type of shoulder expression is very unforgiving. A more padded, natural or roped shoulder won't necessarily "collapse" if it's 1cm or so too wide. However the spalla camicia hangs all wrong unless its seam is right on the acromion.

post #18504 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

I've tried on a few spalla camicia jackets (RTW) and note that in a 52 (pretty much my correct size) the shoulders are often cut too wide for me. Size 50 will fit my shoulders perfectly but then the jacket is tight around my chest.

 

I suppose this means my chest is too big for my shoulders. Time for some MTM/bespoke lovin' I guess...

 

But what it also means is that this type of shoulder expression is very unforgiving. A more padded, natural or roped shoulder won't necessarily "collapse" if it's 1cm or so too wide. However the spalla camicia hangs all wrong unless its seam is right on the acromion.

 

Then how do extended spalla camicia shoulders work? I have a suit that's completely unpadded, with extended spalla camicia shoulders, and it doesn't collapse at all.

post #18505 of 37396

I'm only speaking from my own experience. Also I may not have made myself clear. With the right fabric and good tailoring, I can imagine the shoulders themselves staying in shape. I'm talking about the sleeve head - major weirdness in the way it hangs. Like the divots in "natural" shoulders which are cut way too wide, but even worse.

 

Do you have a pic of your jacket you can share?

post #18506 of 37396

Slightly extended and completely unpadded. I have to say that extended, unpadded and shirred shoulders can be very flattering if you have relatively square shoulders. It doesn't look as good with sloped shoulders.


post #18507 of 37396
What did you do to the pants! Please remove the military crease.

Thanks

Management lol8[1].gif

On a serious note though, I find them off-putting on suit pants. Probably cool with moleskin or corduroys.
post #18508 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

What did you do to the pants! Please remove the military crease.

Thanks

Management lol8[1].gif

On a serious note though, I find them off-putting on suit pants. Probably cool with moleskin or corduroys.

 

Lol, you haven't seen them without. The fabric is extremely thin, as thin as a dress shirt. I suspect it's some very high supers number, meaning there's no pants drape whatsoever. Without the crease it just collapses after wearing it for 5 mins. Worse than linen. It does mean it's an extremely light and comfortable suit to wear, but the trousers need some help. Anyways, if you hadn't known what a stitched crease is, you wouldn't have noticed it.

post #18509 of 37396
FWIW, I don't like the military crease there either, I'd rather have my creases fade. More importantly to me would be the cuffs, which aren't high enough in relation to the generous leg opening, causing awkward proportions to my eye.
It's a lovely fabric that, but herringbone and twill weaves don't hold creases well at any weight. That's why they're used in shirts to prevent wrinkles
post #18510 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

FWIW, I don't like the military crease there either, I'd rather have my creases fade. More importantly to me would be the cuffs, which aren't high enough in relation to the generous leg opening, causing awkward proportions to my eye.
It's a lovely fabric that, but herringbone and twill weaves don't hold creases well at any weight. That's why they're used in shirts to prevent wrinkles

 

Ah, didn't know that about herringbone. It's not my favourite fabric, but I love the cut of the suit, so it'll do. The cuffs are 2", don't really want to get any bigger cuffs.

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