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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1230

post #18436 of 37497
Continue to build your relationship with your local tailor. Local is always better for the accessibility provided he does decent work. When you go to Sydney then try Pjohnson or BnT and on your future trip to Italy try any tailor of your choosing. It's that simple.

For shirts and pants. If you already have something with a decent fit then send it over to Luxire.

It's really that simple.
post #18437 of 37497
I'm surprised no one has mentioned NSM. They were the sweethearts of the forum a few years ago and I believe Vox still uses them for his Italian stuff. I always got the sense that they were considerably less expensive than the likes of Rubinacci and Liverano.
Edited by SeaJen - 1/29/15 at 4:40am
post #18438 of 37497
NSM is definitely less expensive and look really good, but I'm surprised that jfrater isn't more into the idea of BnT, seeing he really seem to like L&L. BnT probably have the most similar house style to L&L, of all the tailors available in Oceania.
post #18439 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


The style of the jackets particularly - very classic and comfortable looking but fresh a well (it's hard to describe actually)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post


"They are f*cking awesomse"....that's about all that needs to be said about Liverano's work.

 

The Liverano cut is very comfortable. It has a very high armhole that wears easily. It is a very masculine cut. It is not your light-airy-neapolitan style. The crescent shaped quarters leading up to the wide lapels gives your body a very fit appearance which perhaps slightly exaggerates your chest shape. The shoulders are also nothing like the neapolitan style...they aren't super structured military-like like you might see from Huntsman...but they aren't super soft either. At least that's how my suit feels on me...

 

jfrater doesn't have to travel to Florence to work with Liverano...they are regularly available every few months in Hong Kong through the Armoury. 

post #18440 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Looking back on my picture gallery I'm starting to discern a "Coxsackie look" but I think it's still somewhat inchoate. I have a way to go yet.

I think having a signature look is a bit overrated. Its fine to have a variety of different looks you can put together as long as they are all coherent and consistently good. Its one thing if you happen to like dressing a specific or particular way, but if you dont have that by nature, I see no wrong in putting together different vibed fits.
post #18441 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

 

 

The Liverano cut is very comfortable. It has a very high armhole that wears easily. It is a very masculine cut. It is not your light-airy-neapolitan style. The crescent shaped quarters leading up to the wide lapels gives your body a very fit appearance which perhaps slightly exaggerates your chest shape. The shoulders are also nothing like the neapolitan style...they aren't super structured military-like like you might see from Huntsman...but they aren't super soft either. At least that's how my suit feels on me...

 

jfrater doesn't have to travel to Florence to work with Liverano...they are regularly available every few months in Hong Kong through the Armoury. 

Waiting for them to go to Hong Kong for each fitting would drag out the process for probably one year+. jfrater has said he doesn't like waiting. 

 

--

 

NSM, Steed, and other traveling tailors are much less expensive than established houses like Liverano, Rubinacci, and A&S since they can't pull clients just off name cache. But they run the same problem for jfrater as above, waiting for trunk shows for fittings.

post #18442 of 37497

@jfrater

I do think that you are moving too fast and making too many purchases. I say slow down a bit.

 

Well...at least you are not making the same kinds of mistakes that I made before this thread got started. 

- 3 Zegna suits (wrong size at full retail) - sold 1 at $400, kept 2 as beaters

- 2 RLBL suits (too slim at full retail) - sold both for $400-500 a piece

- 1 Isaia suit (wrong size at full retail) - returned for full refund 

- 2 RLBL derby shoes (wrong size, wrong style at full retail) - kept as beaters

- 8 Zegna shirts (at full retail :brick:) - kept all

- x Brioni, Charvet, and TF ties (terrible selections at full retail) - returned for full refund

__________________________________________________________________________________

With help from Noodlers: :slayer:

- 3 suits (correct size at a great deal) (credit to all y'all and Greg)

- 2 C&J oxfords (credit to Cleav)

- x ties from Sam Hober, Vanda, NMWA, etc (credit to all y'all)

- quit alcohol (1 yr) (credit to my wife)

- got married (credit to my wife)

- Launched Noodles™ suit collection (credit to SB)

 

 


Edited by The Noodles - 1/29/15 at 12:37pm
post #18443 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywhyy View Post
 

Waiting for them to go to Hong Kong for each fitting would drag out the process for probably one year+. jfrater has said he doesn't like waiting. 

 

--

 

NSM, Steed, and other traveling tailors are much less expensive than established houses like Liverano, Rubinacci, and A&S since they can't pull clients just off name cache. But they run the same problem for jfrater as above, waiting for trunk shows for fittings.

 

One year + is the the average wait time for any serious and professional bespoke tailor. 

 

Sure, you can get it done faster and cheaper. But it may not fit as well or be of the quality that is standard at the high end of the spectrum. 

post #18444 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

 

One year + is the the average wait time for any serious and professional bespoke tailor. 

 

Sure, you can get it done faster and cheaper. But it may not fit as well or be of the quality that is standard at the high end of the spectrum. 

lol that's utterly ridiculous

post #18445 of 37497

I should have added...for any serious and professional travelling bespoke tailor.

 

Ofc if you are local or willing to travel direct for fittings it can be expedited...

post #18446 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

@jfrater

I do think that you are moving too fast and making too many purchases. I say slow down a bit.

Well...at least you are not making the same kinds of mistakes that I made before this thread got started. 
- 3 Zegna suits (wrong size at full retail) sold 1 at $400, kept 2 as beaters
- 2 RLBL suits (too slim at full retail) - sold at $400-500
- 1 Isaia suit (wrong size at full retail) - returned for full refund 
- 2 RLBL derby shoes (wrong size, wrong style at full retail) kept as beaters
- 8 Zegna shirts (at full retail baldy%5B1%5D.gif) kept
- x Brioni, Charvet, and TF ties (terrible selections at full retail) - returned for full refund
__________________________________________________________________________________

With help from Noodlers:
- 3 suits (correct size at a great deal)
- 2 C&J oxfords (credit to Cleav)
- x ties from Sam Hober, Vanda, NMWA, etc
- quit alcohol (1 yr)
- got married

It is almost comforting to know I am not alone smile.gif congrats on the quitting and the marriage! What a year it's been for you!

I do intend to slow down now and focus on the tailor instead. I might try to learn a bit about fabric in the meantime.
post #18447 of 37497
post #18448 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

I think having a signature look is a bit overrated...

Isn't your beard your signature look? wink.gif
post #18449 of 37497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher Essex View Post

Isn't your beard your signature look? wink.gif

Signature beard - Not overrated

Signature look - Yes overrated
post #18450 of 37497
^ In Sitches: overrated nod[1].gif
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