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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1229

post #18421 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

I do honestly smile.gif I dress nicely by choice - I work from home and can wear what I like but I choose to wear a tie everyday. Liverano and rubinacci both seem to me to be very comfortable and relaxed clothing - more suitable for my lifestyle than the likes of Anderson a Sheppard etc. I don't want to look like Gordon Gecko / I want to look like I belong in a jacket and tie and feel comfortable so doing.

The Anderson and Sheppard cut is considered "London Drape" and has extra folds of cloth in the chest ("drape") and very soft shoulders. I haven't heard A&S suits called anything but "comfortable and relaxed." The iGent blogosphere often quotes Fred Astaire as saying that he did all of his dancing in A&S suits.

Also, the house cuts Rubinacci and many other Neapolitan tailors are very similar style to Anderson and Sheppard. They are all descended from Frederick Scholte and his famous "London Drape."
post #18422 of 37396
Speaking about online MTM … just got my second shirt back from Proper Cloth. I did the soft president collar this time. @EliodA, is the collar height better on this one?

There are still fit issues in the waist and chest. And, for some reason the collar is loose this time. Don't know if it's the soft collar, the height or the fabric … linen/cotton. I'd appreciate any help you guys can so I can make the next revision. Thanks!!!


Fit fotos (Click to show)




Last post (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

Not the most revealing photos, but this is a Sam Hober tie I got last year. I think it's the best tie I've ever owned, but from what I've been reading, there's so much I don't know about ties. Does it look good? Width good? Knot good? Length has been the biggest issue for me and though I don't have any photos of the bottom, I think it's pretty good. This is a 3.5" x 53". I'd appreciate any thoughts and direction. Thanks!!!


Photo%20Apr%2026%2C%203%2028%2052%20PM.jpg
Photo%20Apr%2027%2C%208%2040%2050%20PM.jpg
post #18423 of 37396
@jfrater for a different perspective and relevant to some of the comments upthread, you may find it interesting to read about Anthony J. Drexel Biddle, one of the most stylish Americans of the 20th century.
post #18424 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by macjedi View Post

Speaking about online MTM … just got my second shirt back from Proper Cloth. I did the soft president collar this time. @EliodA, is the collar height better on this one?

There are still fit issues in the waist and chest. And, for some reason the collar is loose this time. Don't know if it's the soft collar, the height or the fabric … linen/cotton. I'd appreciate any help you guys can so I can make the next revision. Thanks!!!
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Yes, collar height is better but now the collar points are too short. That's what's causing them to float. If you increase the height of the collar band you should lengthen the collar points accordingly. Personally I prefer collar points that are a little bit too long, which automatically gives them a nice gentle curve while the points will always rest on the collar bone (that's why it's got that name, I guess...)

post #18425 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

I would be willing to bet that if jfrat went to L&L now, and continues on SF, he will be unhappy with the suit within a year.

 

I think so too. To date, I've done one bespoke suit. It cost me less than $1K through a Shanghai bespoke outfit. The result was actually very good, but it's strictly a "fun" suit which I might wear once per year. The process of choosing fabric, style and all the little options is actually pretty intimidating and very easy to get wrong. I'm firmly on the "jf, stay away from L&L for the moment" team.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post
 

That's some unprecedented koppage right there. Hats off. 

 

You have a nice turn of phrase.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

And then if you want to drop $1k on each airline roundtrip, there's BNTailor in Seoul and probably some good tailors in Tokyo...

 

B&T have a fitter in Sydney (@incontro) so @jfrater doesn't have to fly to Seoul. He could fly in to Sydney and get fitted for both B&T and PJohnson. Plus the Sydney SF crew would I'm sure take him out for drinks too.

post #18426 of 37396

As to jfrater's style or lack thereof, that is a valid point, if rather brusquely phrased by the other gentleman.

 

I've been on this board for 18 months now and have had a very similar (if less extreme) journey to jfrater - and indeed, most likely similar to many here.

 

Frantic koppage at the start, many errors, no real consistency between fits, trying out all sorts of different looks and posting bizarre fits which garnered few thumbs and some raised eyebrows.

 

Looking back on my picture gallery I'm starting to discern a "Coxsackie look" but I think it's still somewhat inchoate. I have a way to go yet. I'd like to try another bespoke piece with maybe B&T or PJohnson, or even go back to my Shanghai people, but I'm by no means ready to start dropping 6K with the likes of Liverano.

post #18427 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

B&T have a fitter in Sydney (@incontro
) so @jfrater
 doesn't have to fly to Seoul. He could fly in to Sydney and get fitted for both B&T and PJohnson. Plus the Sydney SF crew would I'm sure take him out for drinks too.

jFrat, sounds like Sydney is your home base!
post #18428 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Ok just got back from the tailor - 4 hours of incredibly thorough measuring discussing picking etc. he was incredibly nice and offered food and drinks. It was totally worth the 7 hour drive. He took me outside to double check certain fabrics against my complexion and gave excellent advice on colors while letting me ask millions of questions.

I return in a month for the first fitting. We went for:

1 - shirt in blue relatively inexpensive fabric. I showed him a borrelli royal shirt and a liverano shirt I like and he advised me on a bigger collar with slightly less spread.

2 - trousers in wool - solid but nice texture in the weave. One pair in off white because I love white trousers.

3 - jacket in 90% wool 10% silk. It's a solid navy but the silk adds a Shen that gives texture in the light. It's beautiful.

Everything is very versatile - he asked what was already in my wardrobe and lots of questions about personality. He is adjusting for my lopsided shoulders ( I dudnt even know I had!)

His style is very soft with little padding. He showed me a fully canvassed jacket he had just finished and it was light as a feather.

My jacket will be two button, fully canvassed, fully lined, very little shoulder padding, hand sewn button holes and rounded fairly open quarters a la liverano.

I will obviously update in a month with some photos. I'll fly up for that visit I think.

Edited to say the cost for all of the above is roughly the same as a Brioni suit off the rack.
haven't been following the thread too closely sorry, is this with that Brendon chap I gave you the details of?
post #18429 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

haven't been following the thread too closely sorry, is this with that Brendon chap I gave you the details of?

Actually no - Brendan has a 3 year waiting list and I'm not willing to wait that long smile.gif
post #18430 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

I think so too. To date, I've done one bespoke suit. It cost me less than $1K through a Shanghai bespoke outfit. The result was actually very good, but it's strictly a "fun" suit which I might wear once per year. The process of choosing fabric, style and all the little options is actually pretty intimidating and very easy to get wrong. I'm firmly on the "jf, stay away from L&L for the moment" team.


You have a nice turn of phrase.


B&T have a fitter in Sydney (@incontro
) so @jfrater
 doesn't have to fly to Seoul. He could fly in to Sydney and get fitted for both B&T and PJohnson. Plus the Sydney SF crew would I'm sure take him out for drinks too.

I will definitely consider Johnson depending on the results of my Auckland tailor trial.
post #18431 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Actually no - Brendan has a 3 year waiting list and I'm not willing to wait that long smile.gif
wow, must be plenty of people over in un zed wanting bespoke for a 3 yr waiting list.
post #18432 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

wow, must be plenty of people over in un zed wanting bespoke for a 3 yr waiting list.

Apparently so! The tailor I have chosen will have stuff ready for the first fitting in one month - something to look forward to smile.gif
post #18433 of 37396
who is brendon?
post #18434 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

who is brendon?

A savile row trained tailor in Auckland.
post #18435 of 37396
does he have a website? just curious to see.
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