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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1213

post #18181 of 37396
How about with a solid blue vicuña Kent wang suit?
post #18182 of 37396

^Nope. Pair with a full-length chinchilla coat, blue vicuña homburg and ivory-handled cane.

post #18183 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

^Nope. Pair with a full-length chinchilla coat, blue vicuña homburg and ivory-handled cane.

Cane: check! Homburg: check! Coat: let me see what I can find on eBay smile.gif
post #18184 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


Cane: check! Homburg: check! Coat: let me see what I can find on eBay smile.gif

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mans-New-Dark-Mahogany-Mink-Full-Length-Fur-Coat-Chinchilla-Collar-Size-54-Long-/381124678083?pt=US_CSA_MC_Outerwear&hash=item58bccd11c3

 

Don't forget to accessorize:

 

post #18185 of 37396

 

Appalling fail. That is not a full-length chinchilla. It's a full-length mink with a chinchilla collar. Strictly for small-timers.

post #18186 of 37396
A black wholecut is a great shoe option for business wear or also evening "formal" wear. I wouldn't consider them a novelty item at all. They are certainly as evening appropriate as a black captoe oxford. I don't know where the notion came from that wholecuts are from the new-school of fashion.
post #18187 of 37396
Indeed. A plain toe oxford was originally more appropriate for wearing with a worsted suit than a cap toe oxford, and a whole cut is a only a small step away from a plain toe oxford, so stop parroting Manton.

I do agree with him that a wholecut stands out more than a regular oxford in today's world, but for some people, like jfrater, that doesn't really matter much.
post #18188 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

okay - latest ties and shoes. I am hoping these ties are more what @Claghorn had in mind when he suggested simpler.

The ties are all from Vanda - my first ties from there - they are awesome!

The shoes are Bontoni - grey. Not sure how I'll pair them yet but I love them.


 

jfrater

 

since you have half their stock in hand :)

 

which ones are 5, 6, and 7? Is one the air force blue japanese wool/silk? They also have two blue donegals apparently, old and new. Natural light shot of those three a bit closer?

 

Cheers.

post #18189 of 37396
post #18190 of 37396

Wow - I never thought I'd be getting these suggestions on StyleForum! Those watches make my Rolex look cheap! So much bling. I'm going to book into the dentist to get my front teeth replaced with gold to match.
post #18191 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

OK, moar black shoe noodlings.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I split my work between Melbourne and Sydney these days and have crashpads (with storage space for clothes) in both cities.

I've split up my wardrobe between the two places and am duplicating certain essentials so that I don't have to tote heavier/bulkier items in my luggage all the time.

This process is just about complete, but black shoes are a staple item of which I only own one decent pair (Carmina calf oxford brogue wingtips on Rain last). I do have a pair of black Carmina lizard monkstraps, but these are not really workwear, are they.

I also have a G&G urge which has been building for some time. So anyway ... what's the GNAT groupthink on these:


St James II, MH71 last -



Oxford, TG73 last -



Personally I find the St James II to be better balanced. Yes, its decoration is more florid and therefore less CBD, but I find the chiselled toe of the Oxford to be a little extreme.

I can get away with either of these at work, so my decision can be on purely aesthetic grounds.

Wifey actually thinks I'm better off getting the St James II in a fancier colour like Vintage Rioja. However, I already have a pair of these in the pipeline:





...which has my burgundy brogued chisel-toed oxford itch pretty well scratched, I would have thought.

Feedback welcome, including black-shoe hate (where elegantly expressed).

All fantastic shoes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Those G&Gs are nice, but a bit overpriced for Goodyear welted shoes. In that price category you should really go for hand welted. Check out Vass.

Meh. GGs are plenty well made, and if one prefers a GG model of a Vass model there is no reason to go GG.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Didn't want to do a full length as my trousers suck but here's the tie and pocket square combo. I know the tie is not the favorite of everyone but I love the shades of blue and brown together big time!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Jacket is Flusser, tie is Fumagalli (never heard of them), pocket square is Drakes.

This is a pocket square/tie combo I would never have considered a month ago.

Awesome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

okay - latest ties and shoes. I am hoping these ties are more what @Claghorn had in mind when he suggested simpler. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The ties are all from Vanda - my first ties from there - they are awesome!

The shoes are Bontoni - grey. Not sure how I'll pair them yet but I love them.



Not a single loser in the group.
post #18192 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

jfrater

since you have half their stock in hand smile.gif

which ones are 5, 6, and 7? Is one the air force blue japanese wool/silk? They also have two blue donegals apparently, old and new. Natural light shot of those three a bit closer?

Cheers.


5. Airforce blue with chevron: http://vandafineclothing.com/store/neckties/399-airforce-blue-chevron.html
6. Blue silk cashmere: http://vandafineclothing.com/store/neckties/580-blue-silk-cashmere-donegal.html
7. Navy olive plaid: http://vandafineclothing.com/store/neckties/236-navy-olive-plaid.html

Once the sun is fully up I'll take a better shot for you smile.gif
post #18193 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGD83 View Post

A black wholecut is a great shoe option for business wear or also evening "formal" wear. I wouldn't consider them a novelty item at all. They are certainly as evening appropriate as a black captoe oxford. I don't know where the notion came from that wholecuts are from the new-school of fashion.

I think a black wholecut can work fine with a suit as can something like a black monkstrap. Of course black oxfords are fine with a suit, but that goes without saying. If by putting "formal" in quotation marks, you are suggesting something like a dark navy or grey suit rather than black tie, then I think they're fine. With a dinner jacket, I'd say no.

I think the issue I have with wholecuts is due to them standing out a bit more and being a bit more unusual (I was using "novelty" more to address this point, though I believe oxfords have been regularly worn with formal clothing much longer than wholecuts so the other uses of the word still kind of work). The shoe looks like a plain toe oxford at first, but it isn't. It is a bit more "fashion-y" even if it's been around for awhile. I think it would be strange to wear a wholecut with an odd jacket and trousers due to its sleekness (of course this can be disregarded if you are fine wearing oxfords with odd jackets), so it basically turns into a non-oxford that can only be worn like an oxford. I just wouldn't know what to do with a pair of them or why I'd want them when I could get a pair of oxfords instead.

Add cordovan and a shoe in midnight blue instead of black and you get even stranger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Indeed. A plain toe oxford was originally more appropriate for wearing with a worsted suit than a cap toe oxford, and a whole cut is a only a small step away from a plain toe oxford, so stop parroting Manton.

I do agree with him that a wholecut stands out more than a regular oxford in today's world, but for some people, like jfrater, that doesn't really matter much.

You've captured precisely the issue that I have with wholecuts. They do stand out more, which to me suggests that they may be less appropriate in the most formal contexts. At the same time, their sleekness seems to suggest that they belong with suits rather than odd jackets (to the extent one follows the oxfords with suits rule). I sort of get why someone would want a pair if they like variety or something that is a bit fun and fashionable, but I look at them and see a shoe that is never the superior option (plain toe oxford for dinner jacket is better, stitch cap or punch cap oxford for formal suits, derbys / monks for more casual suits and odd jackets, loafers with more casual fits). I understand that not everyone looks at building a wardrobe as an optimization exercise (I don't entirely, but there's enough there that I do).

JFrater definitely has a place in a massive shoe wardrobe for a pair of pretty much anything, though.

Incidentally, I think that adding a stitch or punch cap to a pair of plain toe oxfords is a much smaller modification than turning an oxford into a wholecut, both in terms of the structure of the shoe and its overall look.
post #18194 of 37396
IMO Whole cut oxfords > Cap toe/stitch cap/whatever cap for a sleek suit look all day and everyday. 365 days of the year and leap years

Whole cut suede oxfords. Now that's a different beast all together.
post #18195 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Well my Exquisite Trimmings order just arrived unexpectedly.

OMG. Rubinacci pocket squares are 100% the nicest I have ever laid my hands on. Absolutely amazing. @Pliny sure wasn't kidding when he recommended them.

ET packaging is pretty damned amazing too actually.

That's pretty much the end of my tie/pocket square shopping spree so hopefully I can start putting some of this amazing stuff you have all recommended to good use.

One question: What are whole cut shoes best with? I have a navy pair - are they best for suits, best for sports coats, or either?

 

Yeah the Rubi squares are awesome. On my last trip to Naples I snagged a bunch of them.

 

Whole cuts are great with city suits...they are very formal. But Navy is kind of an odd color for a wholecut, given the formality of the style. Maybe consider having them re-painted black.

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