or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1205

post #18061 of 37396

PSA to Noodlers - Exquisite trimmings has some great deals on Drakes squares in the sale section. Deduct VAT for non EU residents, and 10% SF discount, and the price is gonna be hard to beat. Whole bunch of nice wool/silk ones...

post #18062 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

jfrat, the spotted hanks can be great as long as you don't pair them with ties with small, repeating patterns. Given the depth of your bench, I imagine versatility isn't something that needs to be high on your list of criteria.


To the others here, I think we should be counseling jfrat with that in mind. He doesn't need stuff he can easily mix and match. He just needs stuff that looks good.

He still needs to wear it though. Making an outfit from a wardrobe that only includes statement pieces can be pretty difficult, as we have seen. No matter how many clothes you have, if you can't make coherent combinations you'll still be dressed badly.

I don't consider spotted hanks to be statement pieces, but I guess YMMV.
post #18063 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by roquesoon View Post

PSA to Noodlers - Exquisite trimmings has some great deals on Drakes squares in the sale section. Deduct VAT for non EU residents, and 10% SF discount, and the price is gonna be hard to beat. Whole bunch of nice wool/silk ones...

And I will second that with a quick reminder that bespoke-england has 35% off all Gaziano and Girling shoes at present (it isn't mentioned on the site but I was emailed about it after I ordered and given a refund).
post #18064 of 37396

If you like the Liverano cut...I would highly recommend seeking them out and working with them. Don't try to kop alternatives that look like it. It's not the same.

 

His bespoke is the top of the top of the top.

 

And considering how much you've spent just by reading the past three or four pages...I think its safe to say you can afford it and you'd be doing yourself a favor by investing in quality.

 

 

post #18065 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post


I don't consider spotted hanks to be statement pieces, but I guess YMMV.

 

Wasn't talking about the spotted hanks. You said he doesn't need stuff he can easily mix and match. I say everyone needs that, regardless of wardrobe size, especially people who are still learning how to dress well. In fact, having an extremely large wardrobe of random items might make it even more difficult to dress well.

post #18066 of 37396
By this I mean that not everything has to go with everything. He likes variety. He likes color. He likes pattern. Giving him useful advice requires factoring those things into our recommendations. A large wardrobe of interchangeable stuff seems unlikely to tickle his funny bone.
post #18067 of 37396
Thread Starter 
I'm just saying he should have BOTH given the image he wants to capture.

As for Liverano & Liverano; I'd advocate a bit more practice before jumping into the deep end. For a variety of reasons, but amongst them the greater appreciation for what he'd be getting.
post #18068 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I'm just saying he should have BOTH given the image he wants to capture.

As for Liverano & Liverano; I'd advocate a bit more practice before jumping into the deep end. For a variety of reasons, but amongst them the greater appreciation for what he'd be getting.

That is true and the reason I am going to do the Kent Wang thing first. The options I am referring to are to help me understand the differences between full canvassed, half canvassed, padded shoulders, etc. so I can make the right decisions when I get to Liverano and Liverano. Fortunately Kent Wang has lots of choices so I can try to get an idea.
post #18069 of 37396
On a slightly different note - these are some fabrics I really quite like - I was contemplating these for my first MTM Kent Wang stuff. Can I get opinions please?

Two piece suits made of the following fabrics:



Second row:

TRS802060 (french blue textured)
TRS802059 (Chocolate textured)

Jackets made of the following:




second row:

T107230-G (blue and red check)
T107228-G (red chocolate check)

Last row:

T107234-G (brown check - wool/silk/linen)
post #18070 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


That is true and the reason I am going to do the Kent Wang thing first. The options I am referring to are to help me understand the differences between full canvassed, half canvassed, padded shoulders, etc. so I can make the right decisions when I get to Liverano and Liverano. Fortunately Kent Wang has lots of choices so I can try to get an idea.

 

If you want casual and Italian, get the widest lapel, unpadded spalla camicia shoulders, light full canvassing, 3 roll 2 notch lapels, patch pockets, rounded (barchetta) chest pocket, brown horn, dark brown corozo or smoked MOP buttons, double vented, 3 sleeve buttons, pick stitching, high rise flat front or single reverse pleated trousers with 2" cuffs. If you want you can go for side adjusters over belt loops. I prefer side adjusters, but it's up to you.

 

All these options combined will give you a casual Neapolitan-ish suit. Make sure you pick a casual fabric to match. A navy flannel or fresco would be a good first option, depending on which seasons you want to wear it.

 

Getting a nice KW suit depends on you knowing how a suit should fit. Read the good taste on SF for reference. Make sure there's ample room in the chest, no shoulder divots and the jacket is long enough to cover your behind. For the trousers, make sure the rise is high enough, somewhere close to your natural waist, and the legs aren't too skinny or baggy. Tell Kent you like the Liverano style, that should help as well. 

post #18071 of 37396
Thread Starter 
2060: amazing and will work for a blazersuit configuration (soft shoulders, two patch pockets). It'll make a nice casual suit.

2059: same as above, though you might get the chest pocket patched to really countrified the rig (it is brown, after all)

Already said I liked that blue w/ red check. The brown is sort of uninspiring to me. Unless it makes your heart sing, I'd wait until you find a fabric that really speaks to you. (And maybe that does, in which case, go for it!) I like the last brown option you mentioned a bit more.

But make sure to go one or two at a time, as each iteration will be better than the last
post #18072 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

If you want casual and Italian, get the widest lapel, unpadded spalla camicia shoulders, light full canvassing, 3 roll 2 notch lapels, patch pockets, rounded (barchetta) chest pocket, brown horn, dark brown corozo or smoked MOP buttons, double vented, 3 sleeve buttons, pick stitching, high rise flat front or single reverse pleated trousers with 2" cuffs. If you want you can go for side adjusters over belt loops. I prefer side adjusters, but it's up to you.

All these options combined will give you a casual Neapolitan-ish suit. Make sure you pick a casual fabric to match. A navy flannel or fresco would be a good first option, depending on which seasons you want to wear it.

Getting a nice KW suit depends on you knowing how a suit should fit. Read the good taste on SF for reference. Make sure there's ample room in the chest, no shoulder divots and the jacket is long enough to cover your behind. For the trousers, make sure the rise is high enough, somewhere close to your natural waist, and the legs aren't too skinny or baggy. Tell Kent you like the Liverano style, that should help as well. 

What do you think of the fabrics I listed above as regards your comments here?

Also - would you suggest limited or extensive pick stitching?

post #18073 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

2060: amazing and will work for a blazersuit configuration (soft shoulders, two patch pockets). It'll make a nice casual suit.

2059: same as above, though you might get the chest pocket patched to really countrified the rig (it is brown, after all)

Already said I liked that blue w/ red check. The brown is sort of uninspiring to me. Unless it makes your heart sing, I'd wait until you find a fabric that really speaks to you. (And maybe that does, in which case, go for it!) I like the last brown option you mentioned a bit more.

But make sure to go one or two at a time, as each iteration will be better than the last

I am almost certainly going to go for the blue with red check - I love it.

Thanks for the suggestion on the 2059 chest pocket - I was planning to do patch pockets on everything except the chest pockets but I will on the brown as you suggested.

Perhaps I will go for two jackets and one suit to start with - so as to get a better fit on future suits.

Do you recommend the spalla camicia on the suits and jackets or a plain unpadded?
post #18074 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


I am almost certainly going to go for the blue with red check - I love it.

Thanks for the suggestion on the 2059 chest pocket - I was planning to do patch pockets on everything except the chest pockets but I will on the brown as you suggested.

Perhaps I will go for two jackets and one suit to start with - so as to get a better fit on future suits.

Do you recommend the spalla camicia on the suits and jackets or a plain unpadded?

 

Don't go for that one just yet. Get the french blue or chocolate textured one first. Go for limited pick stitching and spalla camicia if you want something casual.

 

Start with just ONE suit. Seriously, ONE!!! Your fit needs to be dialed in first, which you do ONE iteration at a time. It's pointless ordering 3 things right now if you won't wear them 3 months from now because the fit is off.

post #18075 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Don't go for that one just yet. Get the french blue or chocolate textured one first. Go for limited pick stitching and spalla camicia if you want something casual.

Start with just ONE suit. Seriously, ONE!!! Your fit needs to be dialed in first, which you do ONE iteration at a time. It's pointless ordering 3 things right now if you won't wear them 3 months from now because the fit is off.

Okay - I'll go for the navy first - and see how that goes.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)