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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1187

post #17791 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

5984 is also really nice.

 

That's viscose/bamboo fabric. How does that wear, do you have experience with it?

post #17792 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

I was just going through my list of fits from here that I love - to take to the tailor next week; this jacket of yours is one of the ones I chose smile.gif I love it. Is that a Kent Wang?

BnT with the fabric from Holland & Sherry.

To echo Elio, I'd only get that if you're comfortable owning a jacket you'll only wear a 6-7 times a year. Which I am, and I suspect you are too.
post #17793 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

I'm not a fan (that means: DON'T DO IT! biggrin.gif ) Too loud and too limiting, IMO. From the middle row I like the bottom two: T107228 & T107229.
The right column: T107234, T107235 and if you don't own a proper solid dark blue/navy jacket yest, I'd go for T107239 or T107240.
The ones on the left don't appeal to me at all...

The two final blues appeal to me too - particularly the dark one. I have a Tom Ford solid navy on the way so I need to check it out before doing another.
post #17794 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

BnT with the fabric from Holland & Sherry.

To echo Elio, I'd only get that if you're comfortable owning a jacket you'll only wear a 6-7 times a year. Which I am, and I suspect you are too.

Yeah that doesn't bother me too much. Ideally I will have a different jacket for each day of the month for rotating. I already have a suit for each day of the month and around 40 pairs of shoes (with another 15 on the way from the bonafe discounted MTO this month and a few other places). I might have to do a round of photos of the shoes to get your opinions on those too at some point.
post #17795 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

What happened with the Kent Wang plan? Though there isn't anything wrong with having multiple tailors. I had two I was going to for a while.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Nothing - I got my suit yesterday and sent off the photos today smile.gif I plan to see what results from both. If the Kent Wang excels I will use him exclusively for everything. I have already picked out some fabrics I love.

What do you think of the blue with red check (second from top in the middle row) here for a jacket:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8509/8484560777_fd3b184944_o.jpg

 

 

Frater u may not know that Kent Wang does CMT, which opens up the whole world of jacketings and suitings to you instead of just the ones KW offers himself.    There are some very good online sources for jacketings -  Yorkshire Fabrics (great range of H&S), Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Minnis suitings including flannels and Frescos, the best of their kind) or for more mid-range stuff, Huddersfield Cloth distributes very decent jacketings like the 'Aimbry' range, English Quality Fabric carries some unsurpassable end of line vintage .H Lesser + the occasional Johnstons of Elgin cashmere

post #17796 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


Frater u may not know that Kent Wang does CMT, which opens up the whole world of jacketings and suitings to you instead of just the ones KW offers himself.    There are some very good online sources for jacketings -  Yorkshire Fabrics (great range of H&S), Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Minnis suitings including flannels and Frescos, the best of their kind) or for more mid-range stuff, Huddersfield Cloth distributes very decent jacketings like the 'Aimbry' range, English Quality Fabric carries some unsurpassable end of line vintage .H Lesser + the occasional Johnstons of Elgin cashmere

@Claghorn mentioned that - I was planning to use the Kent Wang fabrics first off because I really have no idea how much I would need to buy or what questions I would need to ask of someone like Yorkshire Fabrics...
post #17797 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

@Claghorn mentioned that - I was planning to use the Kent Wang fabrics first off because I really have no idea how much I would need to buy or what questions I would need to ask of someone like Yorkshire Fabrics...

Those are exactly the kind of questions you can ask here. smile.gif
post #17798 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Those are exactly the kind of questions you can ask here. smile.gif

Great! Let's get started!

I notice that a lot of the fabrics are organized into jackets, suits, blazers, trousers, etc. Does that mean you should use them only for that purpose or if you see a jacket fabric you really like can you make it into trousers too?

And how much do I buy for a 42L?
post #17799 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


Haha it is a bee - I have a very big thing for bee motifs.

 

Do you own a Chopard watch then?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

 

Frater u may not know that Kent Wang does CMT, which opens up the whole world of jacketings and suitings to you instead of just the ones KW offers himself.    There are some very good online sources for jacketings -  Yorkshire Fabrics (great range of H&S), Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Minnis suitings including flannels and Frescos, the best of their kind) or for more mid-range stuff, Huddersfield Cloth distributes very decent jacketings like the 'Aimbry' range, English Quality Fabric carries some unsurpassable end of line vintage .H Lesser + the occasional Johnstons of Elgin cashmere

 

Great info. Also somewhat intimidating. How the hell can anyone know this much?

post #17800 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


Frater u may not know that Kent Wang does CMT, which opens up the whole world of jacketings and suitings to you instead of just the ones KW offers himself.    There are some very good online sources for jacketings -  Yorkshire Fabrics (great range of H&S), Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Minnis suitings including flannels and Frescos, the best of their kind) or for more mid-range stuff, Huddersfield Cloth distributes very decent jacketings like the 'Aimbry' range, English Quality Fabric carries some unsurpassable end of line vintage .H Lesser + the occasional Johnstons of Elgin cashmere

@Claghorn mentioned that - I was planning to use the Kent Wang fabrics first off because I really have no idea how much I would need to buy or what questions I would need to ask of someone like Yorkshire Fabrics...

 

If possible, you're usually better off asking the tailor.  How much you need depends on your size, the design of the item you're commissioning, and the pattern, if any, of the cloth (e.g., if it's a windowpane or large check you'll need more than you otherwise would in order to ensure the tailor can do the appropriate pattern-matching).

 

The 'Unfunded Liabilities' thread is an excellent resource for information on suiting and jacketing.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #17801 of 37396
@Coxsackie
My wife uses an app called Lookie. It is mostly women but Pitti pix showed up there. Itd be weird if SF pix ended up on that app and she sees me.
post #17802 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Frater u may not know that Kent Wang does CMT, which opens up the whole world of jacketings and suitings to you instead of just the ones KW offers himself.    There are some very good online sources for jacketings -  Yorkshire Fabrics (great range of H&S), Huddersfield Fine Worsteds (Minnis suitings including flannels and Frescos, the best of their kind) or for more mid-range stuff, Huddersfield Cloth distributes very decent jacketings like the 'Aimbry' range, English Quality Fabric carries some unsurpassable end of line vintage .H Lesser + the occasional Johnstons of Elgin cashmere

 

 

Great info. Also somewhat intimidating. How the hell can anyone know this much?

Its a lot compared to a medical degree, I know.:uhoh:

post #17803 of 37396
Noodlers hope some of you took advantage of the drakes I posted earlier. It came. 8cm as I thought, soft hand and is visually textured in the same range as a grossa so not too country IMO. Nice mid dark slate blue. Not available anymore but they just posted a burgundy version so you might consider that if you like burgundy. Apologies, no SC today.

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-BNY-Site/default/Product-Show?pid=00505036645473&q=drake%27s&index=17



Edit: untipped, lined, hand-rolled edges. Made for Barneys, by Drake's (on label).
Edited by TweedyProf - 1/21/15 at 10:04am
post #17804 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Noodlers hope some of you took advantage of the drakes I posted earlier. It came. 8cm as I thought, soft hand and is visually textured in the same range as a grossa so not too country. Nice mid dark slate blue. Not available anymore but they just posted a burgundy version so you might consider that if you like burgundy. Apologies, no SC today.

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-BNY-Site/default/Product-Show?pid=00505036645473&q=drake%27s&index=17


That is a nice tie! But sadly I have a resolution to not give any more donations to Barneys this year after last years rather large contributions! Plus I just bought all the ties @Claghorn posted last week!
post #17805 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

How's the knot AC on that Drakes?

 

Haven't gotten it yet, thanks.  Will report back.

 

Regarding width, as you know wool ties can be thick, which can make for a larger knot than with many silk ties.

 

This can be an issue for me.  I've got a smallish neck (15" off-the-rack, but if I was going for a custom shirt I'd get a 14.75 if I could be confident there'd be no shrinkage), so I need to take care I don't end up with a larger knot than I want.

 

Yeah, it's tricky.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

OK.  It just arrived.  Here's it's first knot, right out of the box:

 

 

So, to answer TweedyProf's question, I'd say it knots quite decently for a wool.  It's not overly heavy, which helps.  I'll be keeping it.

 

Apropos of nothing, this also arrived today in the mail.  Background color is a dark midnight blue in real life.

 

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

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