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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 118

post #1756 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post
 

Busy bunch in here.  Rudals you bitch about suit supply being target but you buy the first layer of fabric that touches your body all day long from target?  Not target hating, but thats one area I invest in is Socks and underwear man.  I like my shit to feel good!  You don't have to be stupid about buying good undergarments but you also shouldn't skimp on the first layer either.  My Wife bought me some drawers from an online retailer that I really like (MeUndies) if you can get past the stupid name they are great fabric.  Only downside is no hole so un doin your drawers every time to take care of business is a pita but they feel great.  

 

 

Maybe NM has some good undergarments! :bounce2:

post #1757 of 37392
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I knew what you meant. My confusion stems from your choice to do this.

Y U NO LIKE UR TIES? (I mean, I know why I don't like many of them, but you presumably...) smile.gif

 

Laziness >> Love. :p

 

 

<pink cashmere tie>

 

Yes or no?

 

Very limited utility. I would not wear with anything remotely approached a businessy look. However I can envision a small niche when combined with winter whites for a dandy casual outfit e.g. heavy cream cords/flannel trousers, pale blue or ecru oxford shirt (BD or not), pink cashmere tie, mid-brown waistcoat, dark brown tweed jacket.

 

Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Applicant: luv2breformed
 

I'm down for any advice anyone may have. Things to pitch, things to kop, homework of various kinds, influences to pursue a certain direction.

 

Your needs are almost the mirror image of the great Noodler. He had a very restricted style and wardrobe that needed expanding a bit; your wardrobe is very all over the place.

 

Leaving aside the obvious need for more shoes that actually fit you, my biggest bit of advice is to first concentrate on figuring out how to combine your existing items together. You have quite a lot of stuff, that range in vibe from formal to FU. Take a top-down approach to audit what you have: think about how often you wear different kinds of outfit, and work out whether you have items in your wardrobe in appropriate proportions for those needs. My hunch is that you'll find you have more leery items than you have actual opportunity to wear them i.e. your wardrobe needs rebalancing.

 

Once you know how much of each kind of item you need, decide which items you really love (for whatever reason) and want to keep and then post up small selections of the rest here for more specific advice on culling.

 

When I changed my work a few years or so ago, I found that I needed to rebalance my wardrobe. I had lots of slick/City-esque items, but suddenly found myself needing a somewhat more casual wardrobe. It takes time to rebalance (I'm more or less there now), but the starting point is recognising what proportions you actually need.

post #1758 of 37392

It looked like you already had one brown but you may want to nab another I'm just not sure what style.  Here's my five from AE, well 4.  Let the council be final before my suggestions though.  

 

1.  Merlot AE Macneil - one of my favorites

 

2.  Strand in Walnut

 

 

3. Something in suede maybe?  

4.  I don't like AE's Park Avenues ever since someone pointed out to me that their cap is tiny so I'll leave the picture blank but this spot is reserved for a black cap toe

 

 

5.  Chilli Delray 

 

post #1759 of 37392

#1

post #1760 of 37392
Pretty sure the cap on the Park Ave isn't tiny.

The line isn't supposed to be halfway up the last.
post #1761 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post


As for the shoes, there's nothing wrong with AE.  I have six pairs, and wear them.  If you get lucky with the Shoe Bank you could get your staples covered there for under a grand, with perhaps a shell cordovan special thrown in.  Do check the Shoe Bank because the occasional $99 bargain is a blessing.  But keep that as a fall back: AE's lasts are a bit on the ordinary side and the house style is very recognisable.  Maybe we can make a rather more interesting list for that: let's call it $1500, five pairs of shoes to cover your new wardrobe, and that's then less than five basics at retail from AE.



I shall return later with a list.  The challenge, fellow contributors, is above in bold: no options, just five specific pairs of shoes, priced live online right now and likely to fit a US10D. Go!



Mimo, as much as shoes are my thing I'm may have to pass here. Budget too low and no experience with AE. I may however 'buy' fewer shoes and rec' them!
post #1762 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post
 

Busy bunch in here.  Rudals you bitch about suit supply being target but you buy the first layer of fabric that touches your body all day long from target?  Not target hating, but thats one area I invest in is Socks and underwear man.  I like my shit to feel good!  You don't have to be stupid about buying good undergarments but you also shouldn't skimp on the first layer either.  My Wife bought me some drawers from an online retailer that I really like (MeUndies) if you can get past the stupid name they are great fabric.  Only downside is no hole so un doin your drawers every time to take care of business is a pita but they feel great.  

 

l2br - You have a lot.  How many closets do you have lol.  I'm currently taking up two closets and I have half of what you do.

 

I can only echo the sentiments about shoes.  You should at the very least have 3-4, a solid 2-3 in your weekly rotation with as was said, a black pair for formal events.  Get shoe trees to keep them looking their best and never wear the same pair consecutively.  Get some nice welted re-soleable shoes and they should last you 5-10 years on up depending on how you take care of them.  They are a great investment.  I have about 12 but I was buying them before addressing their level of formality and realized I have 11 out of 12 of my shoes are on the more formal side. Consider how formal they are.  Down the road invest in your shoe care as well.  Cleaner/conditioner, liquid polish, wax for the caps and backs and a couple horsehair brushes (brown black) I bust out my kit once every couple weeks to keep up with the wear and tear, its meditation for me.  I also bring my shoes to a cobbler to have a vibram sole put on which helps traction and lengthen the lifespan of the shoes.  And lastly, golashes or swims if you live in winter areas.

 

I can't wait for USPS guy!  SO many goodies coming in today :bounce2:

 

Are you sure she bought men's underwear for you?  I've never heard of men's underwear without a hole in the front.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Pretty sure the cap on the Park Ave isn't tiny.

The line isn't supposed to be halfway up the last.

 

It's a combination of the six eyelet design and the protruding welt on a less than sleek round toe last that really make the Park Avenue toe look short and stubby.  Compare the AE (top) with a Carmina (bottom) on a similarly round toe last:

 

Park Avenue1.JPG

 

post #1763 of 37392
 


Quote:

Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

 

 



Are you sure she bought men's underwear for you?  I've never heard of men's underwear without a hole in the front.



 



 





https://www.meundies.com/t/gender/men



 



No fly zone.



 



post #1764 of 37392
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
quote name="jungleroller" url="/t/375309/noodles-good-natured-advice-thread/1755#post_6917789"]It looked like you already had one brown but you may want to nab another I'm just not sure what style.  Here's my five from AE, well 4.  Let the council be final before my suggestions though.  

1.  Merlot AE Macneil - one of my favorites



2.  Strand in Walnut




3. Something in suede maybe?  


4.  I don't like AE's Park Avenues ever since someone pointed out to me that their cap is tiny so I'll leave the picture blank but this spot is reserved for a black cap toe


5.  Chilli Delray 



[/quote]

The Macneil or Delray are good choices, though I think some dark brown shoes are going to be very useful too. I don't think he needs any oxfords other than the one pair of black punch caps or stitch caps for when he needs maximum formality.

1. Macneil in merlot
2. Delray in chilli
3. Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue in black (only oxford he needs)
4. Mora 2.0 in brown (http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF2988_1_40000000001_-1_)
5. Patriot or some similar loafer in brown (can be a lighter shade potentially - http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/producti_SF4906_1_40000000001_-1_)

One out of 1, 2 or 5 could be replaced by something in suede (though AE's offerings in suede leave something to be desired). I think the dark brown monk works as an alternative suit shoe will being more casual.
post #1765 of 37392

Merlot Macneil is not a permanent item like I thought it was.  I picked mine up at webgem and merlot is now permanent in strand and park avenue but not macneil, boo!  You can still get it in burgundy cordovan if you don't mind spending more on shell - $650.  Although you may be able to contact their seconds department/shoe bank and pick up some on discount.  Seconds/Shoebank are sold on discount due to not passing their qc to be sold as firsts.  Sometimes you can't even tell why, other times it's bad.  You can return them but pay a restock of I believe $15.  I've gotten two pairs of seconds and both are perfect but it's a gamble.

 

Another option if you do like Merlot, you should btw, would be McAllister - I think it's a pretty formal shoe though.

 

post #1766 of 37392

@luv2breformed

 

Lots going on here and many good suggestions from the core commentators. I think it's your call how you want to proceed (I definitely I second/third the idea of not buying anything right now). I suggest you make a call about this. We need constraints people!

 

Ties are a good place to start. To push that further, why not put together some coherent combos given what you have (you don't even have to put them on, just lay out jacket, trousers, tie, and square). Pick two jackets, pair them with a set of ties that you think might work and with appropriate hanks. You can put them on to get fit advice later (and you've been thoughtful of your combos in WAYWRN, if I remember). Awful ties can be donated/resold.

 

Folks can then critique both the pieces individually and the combination, which I think would lead to a more holistically oriented conversation, one that would be more enjoyable.

 

On shoes (and at the risk of undercutting Mimo's suggestion): I really am for getting fewer and better. AE's are good starting points, if you are on a budget and need something now. But I don't think you do, given your current work environment. The Carminas look to me clearly lovelier than the AE PAs (though the latter are fine if you need a cheaper option). So, of the two, I'd save for the Carminas (if you wait, you can get them close to the full price of an AE PA). Shoe mart recently cleared out its inventory and had them at $299 (some models are still left).

post #1767 of 37392

Speaking of shoes, any opinions on these? I have both a black and a brown. 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
s7-1011925_lifestyle?wid=2000&hei=2000

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Made in Italy, our Gittens dress shoe is exquisitely crafted from calfskin leather and designed with a classic rounded toe.

  • Rounded-toe silhouette. Lace-up vamp.
  • Stacked heel.
  • Leather-lined with a padded insole.
  • Includes our signature twill duster bag.
  • Leather. Made in Italy.

 

  • ¬†

post #1768 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

Speaking of shoes, any opinions on these? I have both a black and a brown. 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
s7-1011925_lifestyle?wid=2000&hei=2000

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Made in Italy, our Gittens dress shoe is exquisitely crafted from calfskin leather and designed with a classic rounded toe.

  • Rounded-toe silhouette. Lace-up vamp.
  • Stacked heel.
  • Leather-lined with a padded insole.
  • Includes our signature twill duster bag.
  • Leather. Made in Italy.

 

  • ¬†

 

If you really want to dress CBD, black/dark brown (preferably black!) catpoe oxfords is all you should wear, not derbies. Forget all the ties and suits, my first investment would be a decent pair of oxfords.

post #1769 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

 

If you really want to dress CBD, black/dark brown (preferably black!) catpoe oxfords is all you should wear, not derbies. Forget all the ties and suits, my first investment would be a decent pair of oxfords.

 

Seconded. You need bals.

post #1770 of 37392
Just like the staple suit/tie/etc conversation had here a staple rota of shoes has to be had.

True with C & J I've busted Mimo's suggested budget here but that is not my intention, though you can get these if you shop around.

You have to have suede. Here's a straight cap oxford (363 last Stitchy) and the Chukka which HAS to be unlined. I have the suede Hallam on 318 last and the Chukka 3 suede same colour yet they do different things for me. I have a lined Chukka in the colour here. Dressed up or down giving great contrast suede is a staple shoe.

I would also respectfully suggest the Clifford as a full brogue oxford, great colour better with age and versatile.

If you like some brogue but want to marry it up with a different look then the Selbourne gives that colour edge too. Works very well instead of the black if you lean that way.

Finally, a whole cut in the Weymouth. I have black as pictured, and other whole cuts in brown. Some will not see the need for black in a stable, fair comment, I like the option. The whole cut though in any colour is a stunning piece of work.

I'm not suggesting these are the ones to buy, just trying to suggest a view on some basic principles in a rota that will give unlimited options.

Stable (Click to show)






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