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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1165

post #17461 of 37396
Not the best angle sorry - thoughts on the combination?



Jacket: cantarelli
Tie: liverano
Pocket square: Gucci
post #17462 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMB View Post

Hi all, still trying to find a great fitting sportcoat.  I'm giving Luxire a shot for a shirt and pants, and if that works out I'm thinking of taking Clag's advice on having a jacket made.  Finding a 40L in my price range has been very elusive so far, so  MTM might be a good route.  Here's a couple fits I wore recently, wondering if any are close enough to use as a template:

40L in Eidos Tipo


Side and back (Click to show)





I'm thinking this is a little long? I measured it at 31".



Linen/Silk blend

Side and back (Click to show)






I'm thinking this is a little short, and I measured it at 30".  Does that mean a sweet spot for length is probably 30.5?  I'm also thinking I could loose a couple centimeters off the back and lower the button stance an inch.

First one seems not too bad to me but does need shortening in the body and sleeves. Caveat: I'm a newbie
post #17463 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Not the best angle sorry - thoughts on the combination?



Jacket: cantarelli
Tie: liverano
Pocket square: Gucci

I'm not a regular poster here, but I think this looks good. I wish the tie didn't have that bold herringbone texture up close, though...

post #17464 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMB View Post
 

Hi all, still trying to find a great fitting sportcoat.  I'm giving Luxire a shot for a shirt and pants, and if that works out I'm thinking of taking Clag's advice on having a jacket made.  Finding a 40L in my price range has been very elusive so far, so  MTM might be a good route.  Here's a couple fits I wore recently, wondering if any are close enough to use as a template:

 

40L in Eidos Tipo


Side and back (Click to show)


 

I'm thinking this is a little long? I measured it at 31".

 

 

 

Linen/Silk blend

Side and back (Click to show)

 

 

 

I'm thinking this is a little short, and I measured it at 30".  Does that mean a sweet spot for length is probably 30.5?  I'm also thinking I could loose a couple centimeters off the back and lower the button stance an inch.


Hard to tell in those pics though I can see why you think it long. Still you have big cuffs on the denim and that might influence how things look...i.e. it might make your legs look shorter than they are (and angle is off). The first covers the seat for sure. I'm guessing the second is fine but without full length hard to know. I don't think 0.5 inches should really matter here.

 

If you feel the first too long, then I'd return it. If it feels to long to you, then no matter who says it is fine, you'll still be bothered by it in a month. 

 

What's your height and typical inseam? There are so many ways of deciding length that balances: (a) bottom to top balance (so roughly cutting the body in a balanced way); (b) covering seat; (c) relation to hands; (d) relation to the length of your leg (or your torso). And of course, as there is no formula, there are matters of taste and preference.

post #17465 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Not the best angle sorry - thoughts on the combination?



Jacket: cantarelli
Tie: liverano
Pocket square: Gucci

Tie is interesting...I've been wondering about tri-color striped ties and not sure if I like them or not. But I like the colors on it.

 

I'm not feeling the pairing with the square, however. The green in the square is good with the tie, but it otherwise feels like a spring square and a fall tie. Plus both are rather energetic and so really are competing against each other in different ways. Is that a pink shirt? You are in spring/summer yes down in NZ?

 

I am in the camp of having a small puff for a square. That you have one already stands out. No need for it to be exploding out of the chest pocket. 

post #17466 of 37396
For starters, jfrat, at a glance it looks pretty nice. Now, to take things to the next level.

1. I agree with Tweedy about the tie and square together.

2. I will add to that the the jacket seems city and the tie country. I know it has a patch breath pocket, which brings down the formality a bit, but it still looks like a much slicker fabric than the chunky tie, a little incoherent. Is it a suit or SC?

3. Before I comment on the shirt, what color is it?
post #17467 of 37396
@jfrater all input welcome, thanks. Inspiring to see your improvements.

@TweedyProf ah, hadn't thought of the impact of cuffs, good point. Height is 6' inseam shy of 32. The rule of thumb I've seen on the board is height/2 - 4, which puts me at a length of 32, but I take your point that there are many influences. Frustrating when no length appears great X(
post #17468 of 37396

@JIMB, i like the fit of that second rust colored jacket.

post #17469 of 37396

Late to the party, but shirts, two or three of which might be pink or lavender.  Some all linen and linen/cotton , end on ends,  and gingham or candy stripes  that only get worn in warm weather.  A few shirts in the wash as always so they are not shown.

 

 

post #17470 of 37396

Where are the wire hangers???

post #17471 of 37396
I wish I had the closet space for wooden hangers for all my shirts. Le sigh.
post #17472 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Tie is interesting...I've been wondering about tri-color striped ties and not sure if I like them or not. But I like the colors on it.

I'm not feeling the pairing with the square, however. The green in the square is good with the tie, but it otherwise feels like a spring square and a fall tie. Plus both are rather energetic and so really are competing against each other in different ways. Is that a pink shirt? You are in spring/summer yes down in NZ?

I am in the camp of having a small puff for a square. That you have one already stands out. No need for it to be exploding out of the chest pocket. 

It slipped out while I was sitting - it's a very light cotton. I normally prefer a smaller puff too. The shirt is more a lilac than a pink and yes it's summer here smile.gif I didn't really think about the fact that the tie is autumnal - I will consider that when choosing in future too. I had to wear that tie out at least once because I had lusted after it for some time smile.gif
post #17473 of 37396

@The Noodles, I launder and iron my own shirts so I have no wire dry cleaning hangers.

 

 

@in stitches you can either. A,  kop less, B,  purge more or C.  get a home with more closets!

post #17474 of 37396
Kind of working on C. And by working on, I mean hoping to win the lottery.
post #17475 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

For starters, jfrat, at a glance it looks pretty nice. Now, to take things to the next level.

1. I agree with Tweedy about the tie and square together.

2. I will add to that the the jacket seems city and the tie country. I know it has a patch breath pocket, which brings down the formality a bit, but it still looks like a much slicker fabric than the chunky tie, a little incoherent. Is it a suit or SC?

3. Before I comment on the shirt, what color is it?

The jacket is a jacket only - and it is a little rough in texture. Here's a better picture of it:



The shirt is solid lilac. The square is a light cotton - the one on the top right:

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2
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