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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1163

post #17431 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

@jfrater
, you might like to try using a longer focal length lens, also positioning the camera further away from you at mid-chest level. These suggestions will help to minimise the subtle fish-eye distortion we are seeing in your full-length fit shot, and allow better judgment of garment fit and proportions.

I generally use a 36mm lens on my Fuji XT-1. This will be equivalent to 50mm on a full-frame SLR, and is said give roughly the same perspective as the human eye. A still-longer focal length could also work, although then you start losing detail due to the "slowness" of the lens.

For examples, have a look at fit shots by Claghorn, EliodA and Anden. (Plenty of others too.) You seem very receptive to good-natured advice and the above will, I believe, help you to lift your game even further on this board.

Thanks for that advice - I am pretty sure I have a 50mm lens - I'll give it a shot next time smile.gif
post #17432 of 37428
Do I have enough shirts??
post #17433 of 37428

Yes. Assuming you won't wear pink, that's a nice rotation.

post #17434 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

The recent remarks made regarding individual shirts suggests to me that a useful discussion might be had on the question of what role, if any, should be played by patterned dress shirts in a business wardrobe (whether they’re in the top ten or not isn’t my question).  The reason I think this is that there doesn’t seem to be a clear consensus, based on remarks people have made here and elsewhere, on patterns apart from simple stripes (which most people allow can work in a business context).

 

So what about checks?  Large?  Small?

 

Here’s what I wore today, for example.  Thoughts?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

u really r an Academic :satisfied: -  so analytical.  I'd call that a little bit fancy, so a little bit of an outlier, because the lines appear to have a shadow effect, or maybe a secondary, feinter line running alongside the main-  can't quite make it out.

 

  The larger and more complex the plaid pattern the less business it is IMO  .. so the smaller, finer and simpler (e.g. a micro-check or a graph check with fine lines)  the plaid the more formal/biz it is.   

post #17435 of 37428
A2, I think it looks ok, but I also think that check is a bit country for that ensemble. It looks to be a double stripe, which veers to country, unless its just a blurry pic. I think that if it was single stripe micro check it would be better. But Im still not sure I would wear a check with that suit and tie.
post #17436 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

@jfrater
, you might like to try using a longer focal length lens, also positioning the camera further away from you at mid-chest level. These suggestions will help to minimise the subtle fish-eye distortion we are seeing in your full-length fit shot, and allow better judgment of garment fit and proportions.

I generally use a 36mm lens on my Fuji XT-1. This will be equivalent to 50mm on a full-frame SLR, and is said give roughly the same perspective as the human eye. A still-longer focal length could also work, although then you start losing detail due to the "slowness" of the lens.

For examples, have a look at fit shots by Claghorn, EliodA and Anden. (Plenty of others too.) You seem very receptive to good-natured advice and the above will, I believe, help you to lift your game even further on this board.

Is this better?



NOTE: ignore the slippers - I am at home for the rest of the day so no shoes smile.gif
post #17437 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post


  The larger and more complex the plaid pattern the less business it is IMO  .. so the smaller, finer and simpler (e.g. a micro-check or a graph check with fine lines)  the plaid the more formal/biz it is.   

This about sums it up. I'd like to add that low contrast is more biz than high. Basically, the more a pattern tends to resolve to solid, the more formal it is, IMO.
post #17438 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

@jfrater

Is this better?
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
NOTE: ignore the slippers - I am at home for the rest of the day so no shoes smile.gif

 

 

 

So Henry Poole bespoke? What year jf?  The gorge doesn't look contemporary to me.

post #17439 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post



So Henry Poole bespoke? What year jf?  The gorge doesn't look contemporary to me.

Yep - bespoke 1985.
post #17440 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
 
Yep - bespoke 1985.

 

Held up well IMO  Closed quarters, downward sloping gorge maybe a couple of cms more off the shoulder, but still presentable after 30 years.. 'classic and timeless'.  I hope my latest commissions last like this.  

post #17441 of 37428
Okay guys - here are my latest ties (bought before I started getting advice here - they just arrived). Which are the goers and which are the junk? They are mostly Drakes, Tie your Tie, and Liverano.


post #17442 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

Held up well IMO  still presentable after 30 years.. 'classic and timeless'.  I hope my latest commissions last like this.  

You should see the lining - 100% perfect. It's like it was never worn actually. The fabric weight is amazing and it feels incredible to wear. It is undoubtedly better than pretty much every suit I have ever bought off the rack.

Are you commissioning a Poole suit? If so, why did you pick them over the other tailors on SR?
post #17443 of 37428
Thread Starter 
I think 1, 4, 7, and 9 will get a lot of wear.

I like for various reasons--though they may be more difficult to wear--2 (especially) and 10.

I find purple difficult to wear. I think large scale checks, like those in #11, always feel as if someone zoomed in on a pattern intended to be on a much smaller scale.

Not a fan of the complex checks (12, 13), but I'll admit they have a place in S/S wear. Their busyness probably limits them to an all solid fit though.

8 is more than presentable. I'm just not a fan of visible weaves (such as grossa grenadines) combined with patterns (which is why I sold my Hober SF club tie. It feels busy, with the weave embedded in the pattern. 6 may suffer this more as you have multiple stripes in multiple colors. Pure personal preference.

5 is decent, though it doesn't speak to me. Never been a fan of the burgundy/gold combination, though I know it's a classic.

I think my reason for disliking 3 is an interesting one--and perhaps instructive. The dots are a strongly structured pattern. The slubs are pure chaos. With the patterns overlayed on it, I find it creates a displeasing effect.

It isn't a bad lot. Only a few that I would say definitely return, and several more you might really want to ponder before deciding they deserve a spot in your rotation.
post #17444 of 37428

Regarding patterned dress shirts worn with a tie, Here’s one of Claghorn’s photos that I liked enough to save.  What attracted me first, of course, was the novelty of Claghorn wearing a jacket that’s not blue ;), but what ultimately appealed to me was the interplay between color, pattern, and texture here (if you enlarge the picture you’ll see that the jacket is herringbone) where, contrary to certain norms, the shirt is in some respects (specifically its pattern) the ‘loudest’ item in the top block and the tie is the ‘quietest’ (the least pattern and texture); so far as color goes, however, the tie is the ‘loudest’, so there’s a dynamic interplay between these different attributes.

 

 

 

Does anyone here *not* like this fit?

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #17445 of 37428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I think 1, 4, 7, and 9 will get a lot of wear.

I like for various reasons--though they may be more difficult to wear--2 (especially) and 10.

I find purple difficult to wear. I think large scale checks, like those in #11, always feel as if someone zoomed in on a pattern intended to be on a much smaller scale.

Not a fan of the complex checks (12, 13), but I'll admit they have a place in S/S wear. Their busyness probably limits them to an all solid fit though.

8 is more than presentable. I'm just not a fan of visible weaves (such as grossa grenadines) combined with patterns (which is why I sold my Hober SF club tie. It feels busy, with the weave embedded in the pattern. 6 may suffer this more as you have multiple stripes in multiple colors. Pure personal preference.

5 is decent, though it doesn't speak to me. Never been a fan of the burgundy/gold combination, though I know it's a classic.

I think my reason for disliking 3 is an interesting one--and perhaps instructive. The dots are a strongly structured pattern. The slubs are pure chaos. With the patterns overlayed on it, I find it creates a displeasing effect.

It isn't a bad lot. Only a few that I would say definitely return, and several more you might really want to ponder before deciding they deserve a spot in your rotation.

Fantastic advice - thanks. Happily you chose pretty much my favorites. This is going a long way to helping me pick right in future
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