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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 117

post #1741 of 37396
Looks like I just bought the last Drake's Navajo PS from NMWA.
post #1742 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

As a homework assignment, I suggest you go through your tie collection and come up with the 15 that you think are most conservative and 5 that you think may not be conservative but you still like. You don't have to get rid of every other tie but the process of doing this will probably help you narrow things down and we can get a sense of what your instincts are like on this. As it is, you have way too many for a good critique. If you are wearing a lot of light blue shirts, you want darker ties as your tie should be darker than your shirt.

 

15 Conservative (Click to show)

 

5 that I like (Click to show)

 

post #1743 of 37396
Most of my socks from Lands End. tongue.gif
post #1744 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

...here we differ, sir!  Who says textures aren't allowed in summer?  Or indeed on a bright sunny winter day.  It's a cheerful colour for a cheerful look, it just needs the right accompaniments, and those don't have to be 20oz tweed and galoshes.  Actually, probably better not.  Air force blue hopsack blazer and chinos I'm feeling, with a checked shirt for interest, and a thin dark cotton PS?

Oh no, mimo!

 

Just kidding. I don't think we differ. Textures are great. In the summer, you might go for a pink in a loose weave grenadine or knit. It was the cashmere that weighed on me. But I think the tie MF was looking at could be nice perhaps late winter, looking hopefully towards the warmth of spring? Certainly, I look longingly towards the future.

 

I'm guessing after seeing Stitches fit, MF pulled the trigger.

post #1745 of 37396

At one point, Mr Porter was dumping the Bresciani socks at 50% in the first sale (no, only 30%). You could pick up some lovely Italian OTC socks for 12 dollars. One should have a few of those.

 

Or Sierra Trading Post has Pantherella's and Falke's, the latter of which I like, for that or less. There's something nice about a quality pair of socks, especially wool ones in winter. But they are mostly to wear not to show, or only a peek of one's sock like a peek of....but I digress.

post #1746 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

L2B, I think you would most benefit from editing rather than acquiring more. For your stated needs, I think you have plenty already. Of course, all of this assumes that what you have fits you well. If that is not the case, then your first cull should be anything that doesn't fit and is unlikely to benefit from alterations.

Your tie collection seems all over the place. Can you pick your favorite 10-20 of those and let us consider them as a group? This would help us get a sense of your preferences.

 

15 More That I like (Click to show)

 

post #1747 of 37396

On textures and seasons, etc.

 

There's a nice Holland and Sherry tie at Vanda in a light Shepherd's Check I've been eyeing (you can see it on Applky in the Vanda thread). I would happily wear that in the summer, the construction is, I suspect, light.

 

I know Shantungs are for summer, but the Conrad Wu shantung I have is in its way  substantial, and the olive makes me want to wear it in the fall: for texture, color, and the dryness of the silk. I've flouted tradition, and perhaps I have not earned the right, but it makes me happy to wear it.

 

So, I withdraw my negative comment on the pink and cashmere Drake's: if you can wear pink, then rock it in the winter (but not that tie in summer, I think).

post #1748 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

 

But step number one - and this is a genuine emergency for attention right now:

 

DAMN YOU NEED SOME SHOOZ MAN!

 

Give me a budget and the size of your best-fitting shoes.  I will give you five pairs to complete your basics. This is pretty much my favourite subject. :)

 

P.S. Nobody ever shows their socks.  Good socks are the privilege of a gentleman.  Let us think on that too.

 

I will try to take pictures of my socks later tonight. Although I don't have all of the funds right now, I could spend roughly 1.5 - 2k on shoes after selling all of my 10.5D this month.

 

My best fitting shoes are 9.5D or 10D depending on length of the last. I'm very happy with AE quality from a personal standpoint. I'm sure your suggestions will likely differ. :)

post #1749 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

L2B, I think you would most benefit from editing rather than acquiring more. For your stated needs, I think you have plenty already. Of course, all of this assumes that what you have fits you well. If that is not the case, then your first cull should be anything that doesn't fit and is unlikely to benefit from alterations.


Your tie collection seems all over the place. Can you pick your favorite 10-20 of those and let us consider them as a group? This would help us get a sense of your preferences.
15 More That I like (Click to show)









Group 1: What are the materials of these two? The red is very...red.
Group 2: Sorry, but none of these.
Group 3: Clearly, you like your tartans. Not my thing (and not very versatile), but I guess these are okay.
Group 4: Assuming decent quality (why are they so wrinkly?), these are fine.
Group 5: Fine
Group 6: Okay (but, again, why so wrinkly?)
Group 7: This seems like a tie for someone with 50 other ties.
post #1750 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post


Group 1: What are the materials of these two? The red is very...red.
Group 2: Sorry, but none of these.
Group 3: Clearly, you like your tartans. Not my thing (and not very versatile), but I guess these are okay.
Group 4: Assuming decent quality (why are they so wrinkly?), these are fine.
Group 5: Fine
Group 6: Okay (but, again, why so wrinkly?)
Group 7: This seems like a tie for someone with 50 other ties.

 

Group 1: These are both grenadine. Red is fina, blue is grossa.

Group 2: Got it
Group 3: Yea, this might be the case of I like how it looks but I can never firgure out how to wear it. Probably a reason for that . . . 
Group 4: I think they are all BB. I bought them secondhand on ebay and they came that way. Can that be pressed out? I have never tried
Group 5: I like the texture more than anything on these. I would like to get to the point that I don't rely on them so much.
Group 6: Same, second hand on ebay. In one sense I am glad I am learning color and texture with these cheap purchases before spending a lot on bad stuff.
Group 7: I do have 50 other ties! (I know and understand what you meant). :P

 

Thatnks for all of the great feedback

post #1751 of 37396
Thread Starter 
post #1752 of 37396

Busy bunch in here.  Rudals you bitch about suit supply being target but you buy the first layer of fabric that touches your body all day long from target?  Not target hating, but thats one area I invest in is Socks and underwear man.  I like my shit to feel good!  You don't have to be stupid about buying good undergarments but you also shouldn't skimp on the first layer either.  My Wife bought me some drawers from an online retailer that I really like (MeUndies) if you can get past the stupid name they are great fabric.  Only downside is no hole so un doin your drawers every time to take care of business is a pita but they feel great.  

 

l2br - You have a lot.  How many closets do you have lol.  I'm currently taking up two closets and I have half of what you do.  

 

I can only echo the sentiments about shoes.  You should at the very least have 3-4, a solid 2-3 in your weekly rotation with as was said, a black pair for formal events.  Get shoe trees to keep them looking their best and never wear the same pair consecutively.  Get some nice welted re-soleable shoes and they should last you 5-10 years on up depending on how you take care of them.  They are a great investment.  I have about 12 but I was buying them before addressing their level of formality and realized I have 11 out of 12 of my shoes are on the more formal side. Consider how formal they are.  Down the road invest in your shoe care as well.  Cleaner/conditioner, liquid polish, wax for the caps and backs and a couple horsehair brushes (brown black) I bust out my kit once every couple weeks to keep up with the wear and tear, its meditation for me.  I also bring my shoes to a cobbler to have a vibram sole put on which helps traction and lengthen the lifespan of the shoes.  And lastly, golashes or swims if you live in winter areas. 

 

I can't wait for USPS guy!  SO many goodies coming in today :bounce2:

post #1753 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

 

I will try to take pictures of my socks later tonight. Although I don't have all of the funds right now, I could spend roughly 1.5 - 2k on shoes after selling all of my 10.5D this month.

 

My best fitting shoes are 9.5D or 10D depending on length of the last. I'm very happy with AE quality from a personal standpoint. I'm sure your suggestions will likely differ. :)

I'm sure like many I started my "adult" collection of dress shoes with AE and I'm happy with a couple from there but I've had too many with problems that outweigh the good to give AE glowing reviews.  Their Customer service has been top notch dealing with the issues though.  My foot seems to be just not made for some of their lasts but I'm on the minority there.  I've grown a liking to Carminas, they're a little more expensive ($400ish for calf) but their craftsmanship that I can tell is much better.  If American made is important Alden is another company that may be a notch above AE but not a big notch.  There is a lot of great English made shoes that I've seen on here but have no personal experience with but I'm sure others will chime in about those.  

post #1754 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

I will try to take pictures of my socks later tonight. Although I don't have all of the funds right now, I could spend roughly 1.5 - 2k on shoes after selling all of my 10.5D this month.

My best fitting shoes are 9.5D or 10D depending on length of the last. I'm very happy with AE quality from a personal standpoint. I'm sure your suggestions will likely differ. smile.gif

You definitely do not need to spend 1.5 - 2k on shoes. I mean, if your overall bank account and budget is much bigger and that's what you want to do then go for it.

But if you're required to be a bit frugal overall you can very easily wait for deals on different shoes or go through B&S and get yourself 2 pairs of brown and 1 pair of black and keep it under 1k.

Granted it's probably a once in a lifetime sale but I bought NIB Gaziano & Girlings w/trees from Spoo for $400 when full retail would probably be about $1,000+. Just an example of big savings that can be found.

I think many of the posters in this thread aren't part of the AE superthread so they may not care for the American shoe but I think the Park Ave cap toes are just fine for daily office wear. I use them as my "beaters".
post #1755 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mothon View Post

Looks like I just bought the last Drake's Navajo PS from NMWA.

 

Well done and congratulations.  A woolly Drake's PS still strikes me as a luxurious and wonderful indulgence to own.  But if one does like to wear a square, then I think this one's very versatile and fun.  And they feel so special. :)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

 

I will try to take pictures of my socks later tonight. Although I don't have all of the funds right now, I could spend roughly 1.5 - 2k on shoes after selling all of my 10.5D this month.

 

My best fitting shoes are 9.5D or 10D depending on length of the last. I'm very happy with AE quality from a personal standpoint. I'm sure your suggestions will likely differ. :)

 

Never mind pictures of socks, I will just throw a couple of thoughts your way: over the calf socks are a wonderful thing, especially with a suit but not exclusively.  They don't fall down and bunch and look scruffy, heavier ones are warm in the winter, and you have the knowledge that your socks are more grown up and gentlemanly than everyone else's, giving you a psychological edge over everyone in the room!  

 

Sure, I have mid-calf cotton socks from Marks & Spencer to wear with jeans or whatever, and they're fine.  But generally, OTC is the sock of substance, and you should accept the invitation to put at least a few OTCs in your life.  Pantharella and Marciolani are names you'll hear recommended a lot, but most of them are mixed with nylon - a substance I consider unsuitable for contact with the human body - and therefore off my list.  Each to his own.  But with that caveat, here are some suggestions:

 

 

www.blacksocks.com 100% cotton fil d'Ecosse over the calf socks.  On the down side, they only have three colours - black, dark grey, and one "seasonal" colour which I think this year is green. And they only do solids.  But I had to mention them because they are the most bullet-proof socks I've ever seen.  I've had a few pairs that must have been washed fifty times and they're still in great shape - and never fall down!  Good service too.

 

www.meschaussettesrouges.com Styleforum affiliate and I'm wearing some of theirs today (Mazarin).  Brilliant selection, and I'd recommend the cotton Mazarin for every day solids, the wool Gammarelli for economical (serious!) luxury, and the Bresciani for patterns.  The latter are new with MCR, and I got a couple of pairs recently.  They are absolutely gorgeous.  Service is great, and you'll feel very special when you get that packet in the post.  I won't spoil it, but trust me, it feels nice to open that envelope.  I strongly recommend you try a couple of pairs, your feet will be happy.

 

www.viccel.com Very reasonably priced and a great selection.  Automatic SF discount if you're logged in here when you visit their site.  I only tried some rather flimsy super-light ones, and they weren't tough enough for me.  But I got what I asked for.  Might be worth trying some of their other lines at that price - there's a very good selection.

 

As for the shoes, there's nothing wrong with AE.  I have six pairs, and wear them.  If you get lucky with the Shoe Bank you could get your staples covered there for under a grand, with perhaps a shell cordovan special thrown in.  Do check the Shoe Bank because the occasional $99 bargain is a blessing.  But keep that as a fall back: AE's lasts are a bit on the ordinary side and the house style is very recognisable.  Maybe we can make a rather more interesting list for that: let's call it $1500, five pairs of shoes to cover your new wardrobe, and that's then less than five basics at retail from AE.

 

I shall return later with a list.  The challenge, fellow contributors, is above in bold: no options, just five specific pairs of shoes, priced live online right now and likely to fit a US10D. Go!

 

PS I'm a 10E in AE.  I could get away with a 10.5D...what you got? :D

 

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