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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 114

post #1696 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Monkeyface, I'd say no. I like the occasional pink tie but I tend to see cashmere / wool ties as things that get paired with tweed jackets and maybe the occasional flannel and I just don't see a pink tie working particularly well with a lot of those sorts of jackets (it will work with some). If you are going to go with a pink tie, I'd consider a grenadine or a diamond weave that might work with a wider variety of jackets and suits.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post


You're in good company. @SpooPoker
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
33ef6881.jpg

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

I am absolutely clueless as to what to do do with. How would you wear it?

 

Also, this thread may have started off that way but it isn't so anymore. It's now all about open-minded people asking questions and learning to dress better and more properly. There are increasing number of "contributors" who chip in or act as mentors and help "noobs" like me. 

My apologies, I only read the beginning. As much as I'd like, I don't have time to read all 100+ pages. I do like how this thread turned out though!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

as seen below, paired well, i think its an absolutely excellent tie. even in summer. excuse the self horn tooting.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Thanks for all the advice, guys! I'm surprised that both Spoo and Stitchy used to own that a pink cashmere tie! I have to say, that outfit looks fantastic. 


Edited by Monkeyface - 2/6/14 at 6:14pm
post #1697 of 37396

NEW PROJECT! 

LUV2BREFORMED

post #1698 of 37396
Thanks, MF. Go kop one! smile.gif

Note though, Spoos is slightly different and Atollini not Drakes.

jrd - sold mine on LS.
post #1699 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

NEW PROJECT! 



LUV2BREFORMED

Move over, Rudals, there's a new project in town. biggrin.gif
post #1700 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

Ok guys, if you thought Noodles was a tough case, here I am:

 

Applicant: luv2breformed

 

Dress Code: My work requires more casual dress(OCBD+chinos is overdoing it a tad), so I dress how I desire outside of work. That said, I would like to be able to do a bit of everything well, with a particular emphasis on casual. I have occasion to wear a suit twice a week or so if I desire. I can wear casual sportscoat and odd trousers about 4-5 times a week. I would eventually like to go into academia in the future, so purchases should be made with that in mind. My current location is more country than city but that could change in the future

 

Goal: Build a solid well-rounded wardrobe that can do all things well

 

Styleforum heroes: VictorSF, Tira, Pingson (but I love you all)

 

Rough Measurements: 5'9" 170lb

Jacket: 38R

Shoulder seam to seam: 17” – 17.5”

Chest: 40”

Length: 29” – 31” depending on style/cut

Sleeve from shoulder seam: 25” - 25.5”

Pants: 32/30 (Incotex fit well. BB Milano fit well. Mabitex a tad snug. Yount too snug and lower rise)

 

Current Arsenal:

 

Jackets (Click to show)

 

Shirts (Click to show)

 

Squares (Click to show)

 

Suits (Click to show)

 

Trousers (Click to show)

 

Cords (Click to show)

 

Chinos (Click to show)

 

Shoes (Click to show)
I have more shoes, but these are actually the only ones in my size. I can wear the other ones for now, but will effectively be building up from scratch. Also, selling my old shoes will provide funds for the inevitable koppage.

 

 

 

Current Best Fitting Items IMO:

Pants: Incotex 32, BB Milano 32/30

Shirts: BB 15.5/34 Extra Slim Fit

Jackets: Hackett 38, BB Fitzgerald 38

Shoes: AE 9.5D OR 10D depending on last (vast majority of my closet is 10.5D ATM. Going to be replacing these slowly)

Typical alterations on stuff I have thrifted is almost always sleeve lengthening and letting out material in the side seams for center vented jackets. I have wide hips unfortunately and often get vent flaring.

 

Items I have been thinking about in priority order:

  1. Shirts
    1. Moar roll light blue ocbd (kamakura? What would my size be?)
    2. Higher collars with more spread. I already have a plain white and light blue double cuff. I would like the equivalent in barrel cuff
    3. Some rougher fabric shirts with high spread collar to wear with tweed and a tie
  2. Jackets
    1. Navy Staple w/ patch pockets
  3. Ties
    1. I need some Wool Challis and Silk Madder to wear with my tweed. I am getting tired of knits
    2. I need some plain shantung to pair with some of my crazy summer jackets
  4. Squares
    1. Completely lost here, I think my square game needs a lot of work
  5. Shoes
    1. Right now leaning towards getting some suede shoes for summer wear
    2. Need burgundy and brown captoes
    3. NEED monks, double and single
  6. Pants
    1. Brown Wool like Stiches wears sometimes

 

 

I have clearly suffered from a collector's mentality. Especially dangerous when you don't know what you are doing. :P

 

I'm down for any advice anyone may have. Things to pitch, things to kop, homework of various kinds, influences to pursue a certain direction.

Well, let's get started on it! Who wants to be the first?

I am not sure if it is a plus or a minus to already have this much(?) in your closet. 

I hope this turns into another success story. I'll shut the heck up and stop hogging this thread...for now. 

post #1701 of 37396
L2BR seems like a thoughtful guy in his WAYWRN posts. Looking forward to this discussion.
post #1702 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Where is the Navajo still available?

NMWA has the color I posted.
post #1703 of 37396
@luv2breformed, there's a lot here to talk about:

- Shirts - I think that your shirts are by far the weakest part of your wardrobe. Too many that are (sorry to be harsh) just not that attractive or versatile. Solids, simply non-fancy stripes and basic checks are your friends. Your instinct to get more blue shirts is correct. As far as rough fabrics, I assume you mean something like oxford cloth. That will go well with tweed.

- Jackets - Some are a bit fun for my taste, but I tend to be a bit more conservative with most of my jackets. If you have some that you don't wear a lot, particularly the louder ones, consider replacing them over time with more staples. Given your dress code at work and interest in academia, you don't have to worry about being CBD. I can go into more detail here depending on how much critique you want. The navy odd jacket is definitely a staple addition. I would consider two eventually (one for summer, one for fall / winter).

- Suits - Hard to glean a lot from the picture, but you seem to be set here. You don't have to wear a suit that much and so I'd say 5 is more than enough unless you have some major seasonality issues to address.

- Trousers - You seem to have a decent size selection here. Brown wool trousers can be nice and would be a decent addition. In general, I think shades of grey are the most useful to have as your staples (especially when you have chinos in various shades of tan). Possibly consider moleskins for the winter.

- Shoes - You need a pair of black cap toes. They'll come out with a suit for weddings, charity events, funerals and other occasions where you want to be formal. A simple stitch cap or punch cap in black is really all you need. Seeing as you do not need to wear suits often, I would not bother with brown or burgundy stitch cap or punch caps. You would be better off with monks which can go with a suit and also work with an odd jacket and trousers. Brown and burgundy are more casual colors than black, so focus on getting shoes in these colors that you can wear with a variety of outfits. Also consider loafers as a casual option. Your shoe collection should reflect the level of formality you need on a typical day for the most part as long as you generally have your bases covered.

- Squares - White linen works well for suits but I do not care for it with odd jackets. Check out Manton's thread on "Square Fail" for some general principles on picking out pocket squares.
post #1704 of 37396
On L2bR

To constrain things, maybe a clear question: what of my current stuff would allow me to look great on the four to five times I can wear a SC and odd trousers? I assume with tie/PS?

Otherwise too much to deal with to get focused answers.
post #1705 of 37396
Too many light colored jackets, IMO ...

They are less versatile and harder to successfully pull off - overall really lacking in the F/W area.

I think most of those shirts are quite poor. I can't even see many jacket/shirt combos possible here.

Trousers - Pretty easy revamp if you need one. Light gray, mid gray, tan/beige, charcoal, dark brown.

If I had to guess, you just bought singular items that caught your eye which has now left you with no semblance of a cohesive wardrobe.
post #1706 of 37396

Updated with current ties. Repost here:

 

Ties rotated and uploaded at maximum size per jrd request below:

 

Current Ties (Click to show)

 

 


Edited by luv2breformed - 2/6/14 at 8:06pm
post #1707 of 37396
^ You have some decent ties and some ugly ties in that mix. Could you please post some bigger pictures that are properly rotated? Too much work to view those.
post #1708 of 37396

Quote:

Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

@luv2breformed, there's a lot here to talk about:

- Shirts - I think that your shirts are by far the weakest part of your wardrobe. Too many that are (sorry to be harsh) just not that attractive or versatile. Solids, simply non-fancy stripes and basic checks are your friends. Your instinct to get more blue shirts is correct. As far as rough fabrics, I assume you mean something like oxford cloth. That will go well with tweed.

- Jackets - Some are a bit fun for my taste, but I tend to be a bit more conservative with most of my jackets. If you have some that you don't wear a lot, particularly the louder ones, consider replacing them over time with more staples. Given your dress code at work and interest in academia, you don't have to worry about being CBD. I can go into more detail here depending on how much critique you want. The navy odd jacket is definitely a staple addition. I would consider two eventually (one for summer, one for fall / winter).

- Suits - Hard to glean a lot from the picture, but you seem to be set here. You don't have to wear a suit that much and so I'd say 5 is more than enough unless you have some major seasonality issues to address.

- Trousers - You seem to have a decent size selection here. Brown wool trousers can be nice and would be a decent addition. In general, I think shades of grey are the most useful to have as your staples (especially when you have chinos in various shades of tan). Possibly consider moleskins for the winter.

- Shoes - You need a pair of black cap toes. They'll come out with a suit for weddings, charity events, funerals and other occasions where you want to be formal. A simple stitch cap or punch cap in black is really all you need. Seeing as you do not need to wear suits often, I would not bother with brown or burgundy stitch cap or punch caps. You would be better off with monks which can go with a suit and also work with an odd jacket and trousers. Brown and burgundy are more casual colors than black, so focus on getting shoes in these colors that you can wear with a variety of outfits. Also consider loafers as a casual option. Your shoe collection should reflect the level of formality you need on a typical day for the most part as long as you generally have your bases covered.

- Squares - White linen works well for suits but I do not care for it with odd jackets. Check out Manton's thread on "Square Fail" for some general principles on picking out pocket squares.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

On L2bR

To constrain things, maybe a clear question: what of my current stuff would allow me to look great on the four to five times I can wear a SC and odd trousers? I assume with tie/PS?

Otherwise too much to deal with to get focused answers.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Too many light colored jackets, IMO ...

They are less versatile and harder to successfully pull off - overall really lacking in the F/W area.

I think most of those shirts are quite poor. I can't even see many jacket/shirt combos possible here.

Trousers - Pretty easy revamp if you need one. Light gray, mid gray, tan/beige, charcoal, dark brown.

If I had to guess, you just bought singular items that caught your eye which has now left you with no semblance of a cohesive wardrobe.

 

Great stuff already, guys. Perhaps we should start by answering what is salvageable? Maybe slimming down this mess a bit will help to recognize obvious holes that simply never got filled? Also, if I can figure out how to work my signature, I will keep a running "to kop" list based upon everyone's recommendations. Now to add some of archibald's suggestions to it . . .

post #1709 of 37396

Tie post above now rotated and reuploaded to maximum size per jrd's request.

post #1710 of 37396
^ Start by focusing on your biggest problem areas which to me are your shirts, then jackets and shoes. I'd slowly week out shirts that are not solid (white, light blue, pink, lilac or ecru) or some sort of subtle stripe or check pattern. Color is fine (though one can overdo it) but stick to solids and classic patterns. Get rid of things that do not fit the bill. With odd jackets, I do agree that you need some darker odd jackets especially in your fall / winter wardrobe. A dark brown tweed would be nice and any navy odd jackets you get will work here too. When buying odd trousers, think about whether they would go with light to medium grey trousers. If not, seriously consider moving on. Brown and tan are also good odd trouser colors if you like variety and cream can work in the summer. If you have a sense of what odd trousers you will be wearing with tailored jackets, it makes it easier to figure out what jackets work in your wardrobe. Navy is a source of endless debate on here (navy trousers worn with a jacket) but I'd say you have bigger fish to fry than worrying about that at this point. As for shoes, you need brown shoes (burgundy is not necessary but if you like them, get some) and should start thinking about how to fill out your shoe wardrobe.

With ties, I would spend some time reading the earlier parts of this thread to get a sense of what is tasteful. Generally you want solids and subtle patterns in conservative colors (blue, dark green, burgundy, brown, black). Some pink, lilac and other brighter colors are okay but they should not be your staples. I also don't love brighter colored ties with most tweeds and think that darker and more textured ties tend to work better with odd jackets. As a homework assignment, I suggest you go through your tie collection and come up with the 15 that you think are most conservative and 5 that you think may not be conservative but you still like. You don't have to get rid of every other tie but the process of doing this will probably help you narrow things down and we can get a sense of what your instincts are like on this. As it is, you have way too many for a good critique. If you are wearing a lot of light blue shirts, you want darker ties as your tie should be darker than your shirt.
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