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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1120

post #16786 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


Excellent suggestion - I have solid white (slightly textured) and blue (herringbone) - would they do? Also, what about pale pink solid? Unfortunately most of my shirts are striped or checks - I have tended to avoid solids so as to not be boring (oops - guess I was wrong there!)

I think a solid pale blue shirt would do. 

I think we may be over analyzing your fit. It looks fine.

The chest and the pulling at the button is a small issue. 

Miles better than my first fit. :lol:

post #16787 of 37392
okay - the jacket fit - to help clarify things:

1. It is buttoning on my sternum - so just slightly below the rib cage
2. I have a big chest from years of singing and too much alcohol (I don't drink now)
3. The tailor hasn't touched this one yet, but on other suits he has altered for me with this problem they tend to let out the jacket a tiny bit (1-2 inches) and they do some kind of trick behind the lapels which involves rouching the fabric a little in the fold and sewing it in place. This keeps the laps against my chest and stops the puckering effect.

If it's any help, my rough measurements are:

Chest: 43
sternum region: 39
waist:39
post #16788 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

I think a solid pale blue shirt would do. 
I think we may be over analyzing your fit. It looks fine.
The chest and the pulling at the button is a small issue. 
Miles better than my first fit. lol8%5B1%5D.gif

Heh thanks smile.gif Does herringbone count as solid?
post #16789 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post


Heh thanks smile.gif Does herringbone count as solid?

Something like this? I think it is solid enough

post #16790 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

okay - the jacket fit - to help clarify things:

1. It is buttoning on my sternum - so just slightly below the rib cage
2. I have a big chest from years of singing and too much alcohol (I don't drink now)
3. The tailor hasn't touched this one yet, but on other suits he has altered for me with this problem they tend to let out the jacket a tiny bit (1-2 inches) and they do some kind of trick behind the lapels which involves rouching the fabric a little in the fold and sewing it in place. This keeps the laps against my chest and stops the puckering effect.

If it's any help, my rough measurements are:

Chest: 43
sternum region: 39
waist:39


Hmmm...doesn't sound as if it is too tight in the chest if they can alleviate the bowing in such a simple manner but I don't understand what they are doing to the lapels.

 

Does it feel too tight at chest? I think you'd want at least a 45 inch pit-to-pit measurement to give at least 2 inch allowance, but often it can be up to 47 inches, i.e. 4 inch allowance. So you probably take a 42 or 44 depending on the make?

 

Jfrater, you have a very early join date but low post number...that's probably worth a story!

post #16791 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post
 

I think a solid pale blue shirt would do. 

I think we may be over analyzing your fit. It looks fine.

The chest and the pulling at the button is a small issue. 

Miles better than my first fit. :lol:

Noodles! What are you saying? Small relative to human tragedies, but this is SF!

post #16792 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 

Noodles! What are you saying? Small relative to human tragedies, but this is SF!

it ain't egregious!

post #16793 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Well, we could have a little wager...coffee at our meet up in the future in Bmore! smile.gif
I tend to think that Elio is right at this point, but let's wait for the OP to report back on how it fits on him.

Deal! cheers.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Heh thanks smile.gif Does herringbone count as solid?

Id say pretty much yes, unless its a particularly obvious herringbone.
post #16794 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


Hmmm...doesn't sound as if it is too tight in the chest if they can alleviate the bowing in such a simple manner but I don't understand what they are doing to the lapels.

Does it feel too tight at chest? I think you'd want at least a 45 inch pit-to-pit measurement to give at least 2 inch allowance, but often it can be up to 47 inches, i.e. 4 inch allowance. So you probably take a 42 or 44 depending on the make?

Jfrater, you have a very early join date but low post number...that's probably worth a story!

It actually feels a little tight at the buttoning point - more so than the chest. I take a 42 - that seems to give the best overall fit. 44 is ridiculously large on me.

I joined a long time ago when I was seeking out ideas for how to wear white tie properly (I was performing with our national orchestra on TV). After that performance i moved to London and life got the better of me so I seldom spent time online. I have recently had my interest in clothing resurrected because I stopped drinking and lost weight smile.gif

This is the result of my white tie suggestions from here: http://image.qpicture.com/image/j/artist-jamie-frater/jamie-frater-30387.jpg
post #16795 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Are you talking about having a different jacket cut?

 

On the current jacket, if the chest is too tight, changing the button point won't fix anything. If you mean having a different jacket cut, then it seems to me (but I'm not a tailor!) that the chest and waist are separate issues, i.e. you can cut within reason a chest of a certain size with different waist sizes (think of women's clothes where chest size is much more variable).

 

I think the waist is overly supressed on the jacket at issue (i.e. look at the line on the side from armhole to waist). This is a matter of taste (see Suit Supply), but secondary to issues of fit here which are not matters of taste but of proper tailoring (IMO).

 

But as others have said, jfrater's fit isn't a bad base line for beginning. I'd just like to see him in his best fitting coat. That's a better baseline for him.

 

No, I mean a different brand or jacket entirely that has a slightly larger chest and lower buttoning point with a slightly less aggressively tapered waist!

post #16796 of 37392
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Deal! cheers.gif
Id say pretty much yes, unless its a particularly obvious herringbone.

Nah - it's a fairly conservative one I think. This is it:

post #16797 of 37392

Anyway some fit with that tie:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Okay here are some photos of problems on my jacket.

 

Photos (Click to show)

Ignore the hair. Please notice my right shoulder, there's a fold of fabric there. Is it possible to get this fixed at an alterations tailor? Do you think it's a big problem I need fixed?

 

 

 

 

Here's another issue I found, the buttons and button holes do not seem to align. First picture is me standing straight, then it's me compensating my shoulder so it aligns, then another picture of it.

 

 

 

 

Here is the collar gap. You only really see it when I lift my hands up. I've included some fit pics to show that in most cases it's not noticeable. What do you think? Big problem?

 

 

Same with other jacket.

 

 

If you guys can recommend a good tailor that can fix some of these things (if you think it requires fixing) I'd appreciate, and an estimate on how much it'd cost as well. I imagine fixing the fabric behind the shoulder is something I shouldn't bring to just any dry cleaners place to get fixed.

post #16798 of 37392
Omg the hair...
post #16799 of 37392
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
LL

 

Let me take a crack at this.

 

Issues:

- Hair cut required

- White shirt is poorly used here as it conflicts struggles with the beige khaki trousers and is too high contrast 

- Tie clip should go if it serves no function

- The tie would be better serves with a navy jacket

- The tie is too narrow for my taste

- The jacket has a noticeable pull when buttoned

- The waist is too tight on the jacket

- khaki pants?

 

If you only asked about the tie, my bad. 

post #16800 of 37392
They're not khaki >.< I hate khakis. They are white (well, cream) denim. I'd wear my indigos but they're drying. Maybe navy flannel.

And yes there's something wrong with the button as I showed in the fixes section.

I too think the tie is a bit too narrow.
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