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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1119

post #16771 of 37396

@EliodA 

 

Well, we all agree on the main fit issue from the front. But your point makes a lot of sense.

post #16772 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrater View Post

Is the shirt issue the color or the check pattern? What sort of shirt is better with a striped grey suit?

Its just not a very ideal pattern for a dress shirt with a pretty conservative suit and tie.
post #16773 of 37396

People hate on white dress shirts too much I think, or offwhite/cream, if you don't want it so stark.

post #16774 of 37396
Let us pause for a moment to consider a boater with a gray, pinstripe suit.

I didn't grow up around folks wearing boaters, so I may be off-base, but that's not quite right, is it?
post #16775 of 37396
Would some of the issues in j fraters jacket be solved with a lower buttoning point?
post #16776 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

Would some of the issues in j fraters jacket be solved with a lower buttoning point?


Not if Elio is right about the tightness in the chest (I assume you mean the lapel bowing). Elio's explanation seems very plausible.

 

It might be that the waist is too suppressed and the chest too tight.

post #16777 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

People hate on white dress shirts too much I think, or offwhite/cream, if you don't want it so stark.

I have no beef with white shirts when used properly.
post #16778 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Not if Elio is right about the tightness in the chest (I assume you mean the lapel bowing). Elio's explanation seems very plausible.

 

It might be that the waist is too suppressed and the chest too tight.

 

I was thinking that having the buttoning point a little lower would allow it to drape better and allow for a larger chest to be cut and allow for a more natural taper for the waist suppression.

post #16779 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

@TweedyProf
(and @EFV
), I may be wrong but I think the high buttoning point is a result of tightness in the chest. Try putting on a well fitting jacket and then pull the lapels apart: you will see the button creeping upwards. Then again I may be talking out of my a*** wink.gif , so better check the tailor's fit feedback thread...

I think you are correct.
post #16780 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
 

 

I was thinking that having the buttoning point a little lower would allow it to drape better and allow for a larger chest to be cut and allow for a more natural taper for the waist suppression.


Are you talking about having a different jacket cut?

 

On the current jacket, if the chest is too tight, changing the button point won't fix anything. If you mean having a different jacket cut, then it seems to me (but I'm not a tailor!) that the chest and waist are separate issues, i.e. you can cut within reason a chest of a certain size with different waist sizes (think of women's clothes where chest size is much more variable).

 

I think the waist is overly supressed on the jacket at issue (i.e. look at the line on the side from armhole to waist). This is a matter of taste (see Suit Supply), but secondary to issues of fit here which are not matters of taste but of proper tailoring (IMO).

 

But as others have said, jfrater's fit isn't a bad base line for beginning. I'd just like to see him in his best fitting coat. That's a better baseline for him.

post #16781 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


I think you are correct.


Well, we could have a little wager...coffee at our meet up in the future in Bmore! :)

 

I tend to think that Elio is right at this point, but let's wait for the OP to report back on how it fits on him.

post #16782 of 37396
You could well be right - I was at home wearing it for my own pleasure. However,: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mWPsDQtnLI0/UbdkrYZu0CI/AAAAAAAAIU4/KXV8oLboeEY/s1600/Fred+Astaire+in+a+Boater+Hat.jpg

Also, a boater is apparently the accepted headwear for black tie when wearing a white jacket so I presumed it counted as fairly formal if necessary.

Here's Maurice Chevalier in a boater and tuxedo: http://meselegances.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/maurice-chevalier.jpg
post #16783 of 37396

I'm worried my jacket has a slight collar gap. There's nothing when standing still but when I move my arms up there's a bit of a gap. I know there will always be something like that, but there's more of it than usual, hmm. Chest too tight maybe? Post pictures in a minute.

post #16784 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

If I may chime in: I noticed you've been posting a few fits recently that all suffer from this mixing of casual with more formal stuff.
I'd advice you to read this old thread, which is a very valuable resource on this subject.
Regarding the fit: I respectfully disagree with @TweedyProf
: the bowing lapels and the ripples just above the button to me are telltale signs that the chest is too tight (if it was due to too much waist suppression only, you'd see an X pattern of ripples). A further indication of this are the closed quarters: you can see the pinstripes not running parallel, which indicates that the jacket is pivoting around the button.
Then, style. Others have already commented on the PS, but I'd like to mention the shirt and suit. A check pattern like that shirt is too casual with the pinstripes, and they both suffer from fabrics that look bland. I think that suit colour in a chalk stripe flannel would look great, but in worsted it looks too boring due to the lack of textural interest. The shirts looks like it's too shy to admit that it's  checked. A check of that size should be bolder IMO.
Incidentally, I posted a somewhat similar fit a few months ago, though mine was easier to do because of higher contrast between (a solid) suit and shirt:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

P.S. I notice you are into high end brands. Nothing wrong with that per se, but a brandname is no guarantee for quality, let alone good taste....

Is the shirt in your example blue check or a white on white pattern? That is a stunning look! I read the old thread as per your advice and I can clearly see where I am going wrong regarding mixing of country/city so to speak. I will begin making changes based on that and will continue to read the thread if I can find the followup threads. Brilliant piece of advice - thank you very much.

Would you say that this shirt (and tie even) would have worked instead with the pinstripe or is the blue still too casual? http://cdn.styleforum.net/6/6e/900x900px-LL-6e2548e6_Ff1IEEF.jpeg
post #16785 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

One thing that stands out to me is the blue p.s. matching the blue shirt. But if you take that out, then it's a good look.
The shoulders look good but the pull when buttoned is noticible.
I don't know about others but a patterned shirt with a patterned suit wud not be my first choice. I usually go solid if thr suit has patterns.
This is a great start!

Excellent suggestion - I have solid white (slightly textured) and blue (herringbone) - would they do? Also, what about pale pink solid? Unfortunately most of my shirts are striped or checks - I have tended to avoid solids so as to not be boring (oops - guess I was wrong there!)
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