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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1088

post #16306 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Claghorn sent me these fit pics that have been published already, so hoping it's ok to post here for reference

He bought the same fabric and had it made up

[...]
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

As always with Claghorn, it’s a beautifully fitting jacket, and I like the cloth (might have preferred it to be a tad darker but that’s probably just me obsessing about versatility), but in this particular case I’m finding the pattern-matching (or lack thereof) to be visually distracting.

 

Again, probably just me.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #16307 of 37396

@The Noodles

 

You know Formosa fits you well.

 

So in response to your question about what is next...

 

do a Formosa MTO....you pick the cloth and the details...it is made on the RTW pattern.

 

This seems like the most logical progression for you...

post #16308 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Clags, you are a real SF enigma.


I just have a very clear understanding of my own preferences (and from where they derive).

 

Besides, I'm not the only bespoke customer to also appreciate Suit Supply. The Shibumi boys both are regular bespoke clients and regularly wear Suit Supply. And though Coxsackie hasn't dipped his toes into bespoke yet, he wears very expensive RTW brands (Tom Ford amongst others) as well as Suit Supply. Holdfast had a bespoke tailor and regularly wore Suit Supply, if I recall.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

As always with Claghorn, it’s a beautifully fitting jacket, and I like the cloth (might have preferred it to be a tad darker but that’s probably just me obsessing about versatility), but in this particular case I’m finding the pattern-matching (or lack thereof) to be visually distracting.

 

Again, probably just me.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac


If it were possible to convert that patch pocket into a welt, I'd do it in a heartbeat. It kills me.

post #16309 of 37396
Was that jacket done by B and Tailor or your other MBT Korean tailor? Thinking it might be the latter

Is BNT typically better at pattern matching?
post #16310 of 37396
Thread Starter 

MTM. Though they also thought they had more cloth when they were cutting. Still.

 

B&Tailor:

 

 

 

post #16311 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

I just have a very clear understanding of my own preferences (and from where they derive).


It was more your previous BR/JC comment + this comment about not caring for "better" tailoring as much as a better stake, all the while being so invested in fashion, that was the root of my comment.
post #16312 of 37396
Is that a closeup of the MBT jacket?
post #16313 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


It was more your previous BR/JC comment + this comment about not caring for "better" tailoring as much as a better stake, all the while being so invested in fashion, that was the root of my comment.

To be clear, I care about "better" tailoring, but I also acknowledge that it has diminishing marginal returns, so I'm not interested in the best money can buy.

 

If wore jackets as rarely as I ate steak, I probably would feel differently. But if it fits well, I don't really "experience" the better tailoring (as you do with a fine steak*). At least with regards to RTW. I guess you might be able to see certain details, but really what you are paying for is what's on the inside, the quality of the fabric (not something I care about as long as it meets a certain minimum; same with construction), and the knowledge that what you are wearing was made by craftsman and that what you are wearing is something that very few people around wear. These aren't things I value. If it looks good, it looks good. Then if the price is right, I buy it. That's pretty much the end of the equation for me. If it happens to be made from some wonderful LL fabric, great. If it's just some bottom of the barrel VBC that's great too, provided the fabric isn't going to wear away after a year or two (unlikely given the size of my rotation, which I hope will continue to increase, though at a much more gradual pace).

 

 

As discussed earlier, different folks are interested in fashion for different reasons. For me, I think SF is a lot of fun. Cataloging what I wear is soothing. And I enjoy walking around and knowing I'm probably the best dressed man (by certain standards) most people have seen all week, if not all month. At the same time, I'm perfectly happy walking around in a polo, shorts, and beat up boat shoes. I don't feel the need to be "on" all the time. That's just not how my passion for clothing works. Thank god, or I'd be miserable in the summer, dwelling on how underdressed I am or sweating buckets through linen.

 

I understand that it works differently for other people. But for me, I don't see the internal inconsistency in walking around in an outfit that costs $2000+ on Monday and an outfit than ran me less than $175 the next day. I don't feel compelled to play with my model trains every day (take me off Lexapro, that may not be true. Though I'm pretty sure I'd be fine not dressing up as long as I can look at everything I have). Nor do I feel compelled to start playing with model cars and model planes. My obsession is purely CM and it doesn't spill over into anything else. And I don't care about where my model trains come from, as long as they don't suck and as long as they go well with the rest of my set.**

 

*to be clear, it isn't like I was eating at Isabelle's every other week. I went 2-3 times a year, generally.

 

**I've never obsessed over model trains. Or even owned them. Perhaps people into that are actually into cars and planes as well. My obsessions have been, in order, anything to do with dinosaurs, anything to do with space, basketball cards, CD's, DVD's and finally CM. I used to spend a solid 1-2 hours a week rearranging my CD collection (by genre, release year, artist name, album name, etc). Fantastic. Basketball cards may have been the most fun. Besides CM. CM definitely takes the cake.

post #16314 of 37396
Why the reference to VBC fabrics as bottom of the barrel smile.gif the super 110s collection books and revenge 130s are quite nice and under appreciated in my opinion.
post #16315 of 37396
Thread Starter 
^ agreed. But they're sort of the low end of the good quality mills. Which still makes them a good quality mill.
Edited by Claghorn - 12/17/14 at 8:07pm
post #16316 of 37396
How can you quantify VBC as being on the low end?

Sure, they sell to places like BB and Suit Supply, but they have some very nice cloths

If they had their stock on line like the Huddersfield mills, I buy a lot of their stuff
post #16317 of 37396
I think it's more the image of the English mills being far superior then the actual reality. Sort of like the differences between Carmina (made in Spain) and benchgrade Crockett and Jones (made in England), and I'd even throw some handgrade in there too.
post #16318 of 37396
^ and to add to that, I think Italian products and branding in general have gotten a bad rap amongst the know it all's on SF and forums like it. Powerhouse brands like Gucci and D&G, Armani etc. that once stood for quality and prestige have certainly abandoned quality for quantity. It doesn't mean that every Italian business is producing low end junk either smile.gif
post #16319 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

How can you quantify VBC as being on the low end?

Sure, they sell to places like BB and Suit Supply, but they have some very nice cloths

If they had their stock on line like the Huddersfield mills, I buy a lot of their stuff

The low end of good. Which is to say, good.
post #16320 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


Won't happen for two reasons:

 
*I'm happy with my current bespoke tailor, despite the distance. So for bespoke, I'm set.
*I'm very happy with the way Suit Supply fits me and construction has never been something I care much about. I'm a philistine, I know. Never cared about exclusivity either.
You have plenty of staples and plenty of killer jackets. So why not try a Formosa instead of soso susu? I get that they fit well and the prices are nice. But you have the luxury to play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

RTC - Congrats on getting into medical school.

Noodles - No to Formosa bespoke (or other bespoke - you really should truly consider what cut / house style you prefer before even thinking of bespoke) for now. You've found a suit that looks great on you off the rack and that will always be made with quality fabrics. I think trying BNTailor for something is fine as I understand it to be reasonably priced relative to other bespoke options and really do think you should look at Steed MTM (look at their Instagram and at least meet with Edwin and Matthew when they are in town in February), which for a fully canvassed suit will be priced comparably to Formosa RTW. But ultimately re: Formosa RTW, you've found something that you like that looks great on you. You also need to build a wardrobe and acquire a bunch of suits over the next year or so and doubling the cost of your suits in addition to the waiting for multiple fittings is not conducive to what you need. Bespoke is great if you can reasonably afford it, enjoy the process and really value the improvements you'd see over RTW.

Archi always makes good point. I am not ready nor interested in bespoke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

@The Noodles


You know Formosa fits you well.

So in response to your question about what is next...

do a Formosa MTO....you pick the cloth and the details...it is made on the RTW pattern.

This seems like the most logical progression for you...
Picking my own cloth to be made in regular 50R sounds like a great next step. I like how Formosa suits fit me now and I want to have the same fit and style in different cloths.

But I am done kopping for now. Two Formosa suits within a month has put a big dent in noodles' piggy bank.
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