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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1072

post #16066 of 37396
If there was collar gap in that jacket, it's likely due to the way i was holding my arms for the picture. That said, you're right that it's an issue that comes up as one puts on weight.

I think i would leave the top button on the ct shirts unbuttoned as well to make the collar spread more. Can't tell it's unbuttoned with a tie.

And yeah, this jacket is definitely starting to get small. The better fitting one got snagged and i need to have the hole rewoven. But the local place has a month wait and my next interview is in Miami. The suit I'm wearing is way too warm for that. So i need to confirm dates before having it rewoven.
post #16067 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

Is there a guide on how a jacket should fit?
I have noticed that 50R fits like a jacket that you would put on.
Very roomy. Loose. 
48R jackets fit me more tightly and not like a jacket. 

Hope I am making sense to someone out there.

It's a mix of preference and various rules. Basically:

1) A jacket's shoulders should extend at least to your natural shoulder line. A bit of extension is acceptable if it is done correctly.

2) A jacket should fit cleanly over your chest. Lapels should not be gaping open. Some like a cleaner chest that feels a bit tighter and that's fine provided it complies with the first two sentences. Others like a bit of drape which tends to result in a more relaxed fit.

3) You should be able to comfortably button your jacket at the waist. Exact degree of waist suppression is up to you but may depend on the cut of the jacket.

4) A jacket should be at least long enough to cover your ass. IMO it is easier to err on the side of a longer jacket when you are taller.

There are a bunch of other things to consider (how the jacket collar sits on your shirt collar, sleeve length, etc.), but those are the basics.
post #16068 of 37396

I get collar gap in many OTR jackets due to similar issues.  I've found some brands that work for me, but have had the best luck with MTM.  I've also learned that I cannot get by with short collar points, which are exacerbated by the collar gap issue.

 

You should consider some of Luxire's entry level fabrics.  I think they start at $60, which isn't much more than you are spending on CT, but you can get a nice collar.

post #16069 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Straight up question: what is most missing in my wardrobe? Trying to figure out a direction to expand in.

I have some thoughts.


Honestly, nothing. But I cant recall you ever posting in a DB suit.
post #16070 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Honestly, nothing. But I cant recall you ever posting in a DB suit.

Aw, thnx shog[1].gif

Yeah, I don't own a DB suit. I almost got one in Seoul, but ended up buying SB. I don't think I'll ever get anything else double breasted. I like the jacket I have. A lot. But a double breasted suit may be too much for me; also, anything I get double breasted I'd probably wear more had it been single breasted.

My wife said that I need more F/W casual wear. I mean, she didn't say it like that, obviously. But that's what she meant.

I'd like to improve my use of warm colors and warm looks. It's something I struggle with, probably because I'm missing certain pieces that would make it easier. Dunno. It's something I'm going to need to really ponder, but warm fits are something that I always have to put a lot of thought into. It doesn't come naturally. Though I think warm fits are, in general, more difficult than cool fits. Perhaps a topic for the Grad Lounge.

As far as grey suits, those are very far from my mind. I have one (light) gray suit, but I don't like wearing suits unless I absolutely NEED to wear a suit or the suit is very casual (signaling that I'm wearing it because I want to, not because I need to). This is why I generally try to get any suits in a blazersuit configuration. Or in very casual patterns or cuts. So is I guess it's possible I get some countrified gray suit, but those are few and far between. I can't really remember any that I really like, other than the gray windowpane from Yount I already own. And gray does not make for good blazersuits.
post #16071 of 37396

Feliz cumpleaños, Noodles!

post #16072 of 37396
I think DBs are best made bespoke because there are too many variables to get right to be flattering. IMO SBs can be a little off and still look good but DBs have less tolerance. You might get a nice one RTW but you have to be lucky or persistent.
post #16073 of 37396
@Claghorn, have you considered a large scale POW check in flannel with patch pockets? That or a houndstooth suit? I think either would suit you quite well. A grey Donegal suit could be fun too.
post #16074 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I think DBs are best made bespoke because there are too many variables to get right to be flattering. IMO SBs can be a little off and still look good but DBs have less tolerance. You might get a nice one RTW but you have to be lucky or persistent.

Very true. If you aren't going to get the details pretty darn close to right, you are better off with SB.
post #16075 of 37396
Thread Starter 
I got lucky with my DB from Huntsman (rtw). Fits exceedingly well. But I agree...double breasted is best bespoke.

I'm considering a houndstooth suit. Patch pockets.
post #16076 of 37396
Houndstooth is nice, but unless you are getting a gray suit or a DB suit (which is what you really should do), you really need zilch, and would probably be better off buying sweaters and other MC casual type stuff, if you have the need and interest. Imho.
post #16077 of 37396

Good Natured Advice to @Claghorn: Buy anything that isn't navy/blue.

post #16078 of 37396
Thread Starter 
Need, yes. Interest, no. I'll be heading to J Crew and Banana Republic after Christmas.

A gray houndstooth sounds nice. As does brown (which will lend itself to warm fits).

Yeah, Noodles, I'm trying to resist the urge to get something that isn't blue.
post #16079 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Need, yes. Interest, no. I'll be heading to J Crew and Banana Republic after Christmas.

A gray houndstooth sounds nice. As does brown (which will lend itself to warm fits).

Yeah, Noodles, I'm trying to resist the urge to get something that isn't blue.

 

 

????

post #16080 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Need, yes. Interest, no. I'll be heading to J Crew and Banana Republic after Christmas.

A gray houndstooth sounds nice. As does brown (which will lend itself to warm fits).

Yeah, Noodles, I'm trying to resist the urge to get something that isn't blue.

NMF15_N2LKR 

How is this^ $3,000???

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