I'm planning on ordering a pair of trousers from Luxire. But before I do, I need to understand a couple of things. Mu usual measurements are thigh width ~12,5" and leg opening ~8" (not sure about knee width, but would assume ~10,5" +/- 0,5"). While I've enjoyed it for some time, I've come to realise that in order to achieve a cleaner and proportionally appealing look, I need to increase those measurements so that the trouser legs hang freely from the waist (or shoulders as I'm planning on using braces).
Obviously, this kind of look is hard to achieve if not going bespoke, so I'm not anticipating a fit on par with vox'sWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I'm aware every individual has his/her optimal set of measurements. What I'm interested in regarding the pictures, and hope that you're able to help me with is the silhouette. Do the trousers taper from the knees or does the taper begin from the thighs down to the leg opening? Is there something else I should look for?
Another thing I enjoy is how the trousers rest on the shoes. Wearing size UK7,5-8 and sporting 8" leg opening requires a slightly shorter inseam in order for the trousers to not get caught at the shoes creating an unappealing break. On the backside the trousers A) don't reach down and just below the heel as in vox's pictures and B) tend to look short when walking. Would a 8,5" (+0,5") leg opening and slightly longer inseam allow for the trousers to hang as neat over the shoes as in vox's pictures or should I opt for an even larger leg opening? I don't want to swim in the trousers, but I don't want the leg opening to get caught on the top of the shoes either. In the pictures above, the trousers sit just above the second pair of lacing and covers the back of the shoes without getting caught on the heel. It's just perfect, imo of course.
I know this is dependent on other things (fit around the seat, balance etc). I'm also aware that it would be to much to ask from Luxire to nail a fit like the above pictures going by my measurements. What I'm interested in is achieving a silhouette similar to the above, not the fit. The latter is up to me and my measurements. Thanks.
Really a tailor's question in the end but a few thoughts.
On getting trousers caught in the shoe, I just don't think there's a way of avoiding this with a fairly slim profile because one walks around. Hems will settle as hems settle, and I wouldn't expect that they always fall cleanly. It might be that a slightly wider hem will help, but you should expect that this will happen. I find my trousers sometimes gets caught in the back! But cuffed trousers that are skimming the top of the shoes should alleviate this issue a bit. I wear mine uncuffed with a touch more break.
If you want your pants to hit right at a certain part of the shoe, why not take that measurement to figure out how wide your hem needs to be. Hitting the middle of the laces seems a good goal.
Go to a department store that sports straight fit trousers which will be wider, more likely. See how they drape. Best way is to try some different fits out. Bring a tape measure and then take some measurements (go to a place with different trousers sizes, department store).
I think that walking back a little from standard "slim" fits will help. There's a nice picture of a person in the HY thread who has the USA fit trousers. He was uncomfortable in their "fullness" but honestly, they looked Vox-like (i.e. like that pic above). If I can find it, I'll post it but you might look in that thread. I think we've sometimes taken "slim" to the wrong extreme.