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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1013

post #15181 of 37672
^ stitchy's blog
post #15182 of 37672
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

What is "el supremo"? Yet another menswear site I can waste time on?

Stichy's yes....another time waster
post #15183 of 37672
Time waste? Hell no!
post #15184 of 37672
What's the general view on chinos especially khakis? I don't like them. Are they really a staple? Can't I get away with only ever wearing twill wool, linen trousers, or jeans? I don't see any void that chinos fill except maybe on a practical level.
post #15185 of 37672

I think you can do away with them and replace with some nice cotton suiting.

post #15186 of 37672
Can I just avoid cotton except jeans? Feels like I'd rather either embrace wrinkles and go linen or be dressy and choose like a twill or hopsack wool, or go full casual with denim.

I personally just prefer linen and wool to chinos in every way. Like light fresco wool for dressier occasions in gray, and tan white or cream in linen. I know there's some debate in this but I'd rather brown wool for slightly cooler weather than chinos too.
post #15187 of 37672
@Isolation, I have a couple pairs of khakis that get occasional use but generally prefer something else. I do like seersucker odd trousers during the summer, but generally go with linen or Fresco / tropical wool. For winter, I wear a lot of flannel and some cavalry twill, but I do like heavier corduroys and moleskins, which, while cotton, I think are slightly different from your basic chino.

IMO the advantage of cotton trousers (including seersucker, your standard issue khakis / chinos, corduroys and moleskins) are that they are easier to dress up than denim and still work very well in most casual contexts (okay, maybe not seersucker quite as much but you get the point).
post #15188 of 37672
Oh yeah I think moleskin and cords are perfectly reasonable or in fact desirable because they provide textural interest, I'm mostly talking about simple plain tan/khaki chinos of the stereotypical business casual look.
post #15189 of 37672
Thread Starter 
I think my stance on cotton pants is known.
post #15190 of 37672
Not to me! Pray tell.
post #15191 of 37672
Chinos suck!
post #15192 of 37672
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Too short. You have to also consider your posture; low right shoulders and lordosis.


Yes, just noticed my shoulder causes some rippling on the right side.  Haven't heard of lordosis before, but will try to work in counteracting exercises in my routine, thanks.


Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

What SB said.


1. If that is a 40R probably a 42L would be in that make, but if you can take a chest measurement with a tailor's measuring tape at the chest, that would help. Shoulders look ok, but could be a little cleaner. Chest is too small for you.


6. You might just pop into a brooks brothers store if you have one nearby. They will have lots of styles, more classic some more fashion forward, and perhaps a helpful salesperson who won't mind taking a few pics for you to mull over (but really to post here!). Try navy first in good light.


Went to BB, was measured as a 39 but they recommended a 40 due to shoulder size.  Best fit seemed to be the Fitzgerald, found a birdseye navy that I liked, though suit staff was too busy to take a picture.  In the sportcoat section, also found a Fitzgerald cut and a less busy salesperson.

Brooks Brothers pictures (Click to show)


Above: fitzgerald in bridseye


Above: Our Make (looks too short)


Above: Fitzgerald SC


Above: same Fitzgerald SC but back doesn't look great




Originally Posted by kulata View Post

@JIMB in addition to what they've all said, I'd recommend you stay away from the current fad of soft shoulders and go for more traditional makers with built up shoulders like Southwick, Hickey Freeman, Canali (the ones they sell in US stores and not the Kei line) etc. Your shoulders are very narrow compared to your hips and thighs so you need a jacket that will add some bulk up top. It's not going to look as fluid when you are moving around but it will give you the visual balance that is more needed in this case.

Was fitted for H. Freeman: they recommended the 40R.  The gentleman kindly took a picture, but realized too late that it may not be full enough view.  I liked the fit at the time, but looks boxy now?  I liked the Crittenden jacket, too, pockets look odd now.


Southwick looked too short, even in the 42R (pictured).


How do the more built shoulders look on the Freeman?  Will try for the other brands next week, thanks for the suggestion.


H. Freeman, Crittenden, Southwick (42R) (Click to show)




Additionally, today I wore a jacket that I had thought was too big for me, so only wore under sweaters and the like.  Now thinking I had the wrong expectations, would like to hear feedback.  Cheers:

Brown corduroy & linen/cotton (Click to show)


post #15193 of 37672
^Those BBs suck.

You look better in the Hickey Freeman, Crittenden and the last Brown corduroy jacket. That seems like the direction you should take but with significant alterations. Correcting your lordosis will improve the fit of your jackets at the back but I am fully convinced that you should avoid soft shoulders.
post #15194 of 37672
Really? I thought the HF and Crittenden looked just as bad but in different ways. I didn't find the shoulders of any of these to be noteworthy (neither fantastic nor bad).
post #15195 of 37672
Much love for cotton pants from this guy. Don't understand the hate. Chinos > jeans
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