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How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 1013post #15182 of 3748211/14/14 at 2:03pmpost #15183 of 3748211/14/14 at 2:29pmpost #15184 of 3748211/14/14 at 2:40pmpost #15185 of 3748211/14/14 at 2:41pmpost #15186 of 3748211/14/14 at 3:08pmCan I just avoid cotton except jeans? Feels like I'd rather either embrace wrinkles and go linen or be dressy and choose like a twill or hopsack wool, or go full casual with denim.
I personally just prefer linen and wool to chinos in every way. Like light fresco wool for dressier occasions in gray, and tan white or cream in linen. I know there's some debate in this but I'd rather brown wool for slightly cooler weather than chinos too.post #15187 of 3748211/14/14 at 3:47pm@Isolation, I have a couple pairs of khakis that get occasional use but generally prefer something else. I do like seersucker odd trousers during the summer, but generally go with linen or Fresco / tropical wool. For winter, I wear a lot of flannel and some cavalry twill, but I do like heavier corduroys and moleskins, which, while cotton, I think are slightly different from your basic chino.
IMO the advantage of cotton trousers (including seersucker, your standard issue khakis / chinos, corduroys and moleskins) are that they are easier to dress up than denim and still work very well in most casual contexts (okay, maybe not seersucker quite as much but you get the point).post #15188 of 3748211/14/14 at 4:09pmpost #15189 of 3748211/14/14 at 4:53pmThread Starterpost #15190 of 3748211/14/14 at 4:58pmpost #15191 of 3748211/14/14 at 5:33pmpost #15192 of 3748211/14/14 at 5:45pmQuote:
Yes, just noticed my shoulder causes some rippling on the right side. Haven't heard of lordosis before, but will try to work in counteracting exercises in my routine, thanks.Quote:Originally Posted by TweedyProf
What SB said.
1. If that is a 40R probably a 42L would be in that make, but if you can take a chest measurement with a tailor's measuring tape at the chest, that would help. Shoulders look ok, but could be a little cleaner. Chest is too small for you.
6. You might just pop into a brooks brothers store if you have one nearby. They will have lots of styles, more classic some more fashion forward, and perhaps a helpful salesperson who won't mind taking a few pics for you to mull over (but really to post here!). Try navy first in good light.
Went to BB, was measured as a 39 but they recommended a 40 due to shoulder size. Best fit seemed to be the Fitzgerald, found a birdseye navy that I liked, though suit staff was too busy to take a picture. In the sportcoat section, also found a Fitzgerald cut and a less busy salesperson.Brooks Brothers pictures (Click to show)
Above: fitzgerald in bridseye
Above: Our Make (looks too short)
Above: Fitzgerald SC
Above: same Fitzgerald SC but back doesn't look great
Quote:Originally Posted by kulata
@JIMB in addition to what they've all said, I'd recommend you stay away from the current fad of soft shoulders and go for more traditional makers with built up shoulders like Southwick, Hickey Freeman, Canali (the ones they sell in US stores and not the Kei line) etc. Your shoulders are very narrow compared to your hips and thighs so you need a jacket that will add some bulk up top. It's not going to look as fluid when you are moving around but it will give you the visual balance that is more needed in this case.
Was fitted for H. Freeman: they recommended the 40R. The gentleman kindly took a picture, but realized too late that it may not be full enough view. I liked the fit at the time, but looks boxy now? I liked the Crittenden jacket, too, pockets look odd now.
Southwick looked too short, even in the 42R (pictured).
How do the more built shoulders look on the Freeman? Will try for the other brands next week, thanks for the suggestion.
Additionally, today I wore a jacket that I had thought was too big for me, so only wore under sweaters and the like. Now thinking I had the wrong expectations, would like to hear feedback. Cheers:Brown corduroy & linen/cotton (Click to show)post #15193 of 3748211/14/14 at 7:03pm^Those BBs suck.
You look better in the Hickey Freeman, Crittenden and the last Brown corduroy jacket. That seems like the direction you should take but with significant alterations. Correcting your lordosis will improve the fit of your jackets at the back but I am fully convinced that you should avoid soft shoulders.post #15194 of 3748211/14/14 at 7:46pmpost #15195 of 3748211/14/14 at 7:49pm
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