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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 95

post #1411 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Thanks for feedback. I agree the inglese is more flattering, definitely fits the shoulders better and is a bit trimmer. A few concerns: the neck is rather large on the Inglese, though no one commented on that, and in fact it's not that apparent, particularly with a tie. Am aware of the "2 fingers 'rule'" and also that one should not rely on a tie to cinch up a loose collar. Meh...I see what appears to be some more relaxed collars in waywrn and it doesn't appear to have negative impact, at least not for me. The collar on Mazz is nearly ideal (note, the neck measurements for Mazz as listed on NMWA are inaccurate: the 16 is actually 16.7", not 16.4" and the 15.75 is approx 16.3" not 16". I mentioned this to Kyle).

The same characteristics that make the Inglese more flattering also make it somewhat more restrictive, as HC suggests (I also hear you re. higher rise trows). Snug in the shoulders and chest, not too bad in waist. I don't spend all day at a desk, so there's that, and I also don't plan to wear this rowing which could be somewhat problematic.

Then there's conventional washing, which might snug up the collar a bit, but also perhaps the chest, shoulders and waist? Since I have my shirts professionally hand washed--cold water, drip dry--the latter 3 would obstensibly not be an issue, but the collar would remain in a "relaxed" state. Oh, and to respond to mention of Barba, Finamore, Borelli et al, these will not work as the neck is too tight. As I've gotten olden my neck has thickened a bit, as well in a few other areas (which also suggests the super slim fits are not for me). Cruel Nature. This is what drew me to Mazz and Inglese to begin with, a collar that would not strangle me or force me to move top button over, causing other issues.

Not looking for perfection, just a well made RTW shirt that looks decent while also allowing a reasonable degree of comfort and mobility. Btw, the Inglese's are the nutz, as far as construction and finish goes, as others have pointed out.

Have you considered MTM? At the $200 price point, depending where you are, you should be able to get one made. You seem pretty aware of RTW shortcomings to marry yourself to something off the peg. I think you'd do fine to have one made. You can also go the online route, though it's best to get your measurements and fit down with a true tailor first.
post #1412 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Have you considered MTM? At the $200 price point, depending where you are, you should be able to get one made. You seem pretty aware of RTW shortcomings to marry yourself to something off the peg. I think you'd do fine to have one made. You can also go the online route, though it's best to get your measurements and fit down with a true tailor first.

I've been trying to avoid this, but yes, I realize that in the end this may be the only way to get a shirt that fits reasonably well in all measurements. It seems like such a hassle: find a decent shirtmaker, determine measurements and desired details. Then make corrections when first shirt is off in various ways. I guess some people relish this process. I do not, at least conceptually.
post #1413 of 37396
Just drop shipped from Italy!!!!!!!!

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I am done kopping ties forawhile. I have reached tie nirvana!!!! (Last tie will be the Hober grenadine that's on the way)









Also kopped these for about $45 bucks each! My second favorite shirt brand after Barba.

A royal oxford and an end-on-end

IMG_1624_zpsf5334b5e.jpg
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Edited by jrd617 - 2/5/14 at 5:59pm
post #1414 of 37396
@AJL
AT 200+ you might find a decent bespoke shirt maker in your area.

There are some MTMs who travel (hemrajani/my tailor) who make good shirts. I suspect they will give you a better fit than what you are finding in OTR. Good selection of fabrics too.
post #1415 of 37396
Good stuff, jrd. LOL last tie. We both know there's no such thing.
post #1416 of 37396
No such thing as a last tie purchase. Only the next one.
post #1417 of 37396
Noodles, MonkeyFace is right, why don't you try SuitSupply? The make nice items and you are slim enough to fit in them.
post #1418 of 37396
@Rudals
@Claghorn

Here's how I thick I like my grenadines. Should be able to tie a thin FIH. I thought pink panthers knots were too big.

Accomplished this by asking for a 3.35 width tie with minimal lining

Here's the Cappelli grossa's knot

IMG_1642_zps8a0dc2bb.jpg
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Thickness compared to a vintage Paul Stuart fina in navy

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post #1419 of 37396
@jrd

Did you not tip the blue? How does
It
Compare to the black which is tipped? I'd be interested in a comparison with the hober when you get it.
post #1420 of 37396
Noodles, I don't think the Zegna cuts flatter you generally. I would recommend that you go to a good menswear shop with several brands (or a department store that isn't Neiman Marcus) and just try on a bunch of different suits. Don't worry about details like lapels, pockets, or even fabrics. Focus on the cut and fit. Figure out what looks good on you. Don't buy anything until you've settled those bedrock basics.

Also, you would do well to heed Stitchy's advice about getting someone else to take the fit pics you intend to post for feedback. The salespeople will accommodate you.
post #1421 of 37396
Sorry, double see below.
(bleeding network on the go here)
post #1422 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post

Can I be your long lost favourite nephew, please?

I'm actually quite a cheapass. Those Cappellis are a rarity at retail.
post #1423 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Just drop shipped from Italy

I am done kopping ties forawhile. I have reached tie nirvana!!!! (Last tie will be the Hober grenadine that's on the way)

Also kopped these for about $45 bucks each! My second favorite shirt brand after Barba.

A royal oxford and an end-on-end

Can I be your long lost favourite nephew, please?
post #1424 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Just drop shipped from Italy!!!!!!!!
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
9jzvgx.jpg
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
a17sj4.jpg
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
246ma7a.jpg







I am done kopping ties forawhile. I have reached tie nirvana!!!! (Last tie will be the Hober grenadine that's on the way)









Also kopped these for about $45 bucks each! My second favorite shirt brand after Barba.

A royal oxford and an end-on-end
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IMG_1624_zpsf5334b5e.jpg
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IMG_1629_zps51a4115e.jpg
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
IMG_1630_zpsa4e8a05b.jpg

Nice Cappellis!!!!

But them shirts for $45?????? Them shirts look mad nice!!! :fonz:

post #1425 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Noodles, MonkeyFace is right, why don't you try SuitSupply? The make nice items and you are slim enough to fit in them.

I am sorry but I think of  Suit Supply as...like Target. But MFace does bring up a good point. Why not try different things with minimal damage? Sounds like a plan!

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