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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 881

post #13201 of 37396

I must be well boring then. I always like solid, boring suits more than patterns etc. Maybe I pay more attention to the cut and fit when solid colours are involved. I'd be perfectly happy with a wardrobe full of nothing but solid navy and grey suits, solid light blue shirts and a bunch of neats.

post #13202 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

I'd just like to say that Betelgeuse's fit photos remind me more and more of Vox.

Betel, you really have your fit nailed. Kudos.

Gracias! biggrin.gif
post #13203 of 37396
Suitsupply tan/camel houndstooth Barbera wool/cashmere/camel overcoat. The shoulders are natural, there's some drape in the chest, and the back is completely clean, not a wrinkle in sight. It's £299, and it would be my only overcoat this year. I'd wear it over a suit for work, and over an SC and flannels for the weekends. Yes or no?

post #13204 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by SamF View Post

I must be well boring then. I always like solid, boring suits more than patterns etc. Maybe I pay more attention to the cut and fit when solid colours are involved. I'd be perfectly happy with a wardrobe full of nothing but solid navy and grey suits, solid light blue shirts and a bunch of neats.

I'm with you 100%.

I used to wear bolder colors and patterns in my shirts and consistently got comments about how much people liked them (particularly female coworkers). "I like your shirt." Disjointed and specific comments, but all positive.

Now that I am a "staple look" factory, I get comments that are much more general. "You always look so nice." "You have a really good look."

It's a subtle difference in the comments, but I think it's a meaningful difference.
post #13205 of 37396
This is funny. Now that you mention it, the compliments I receive moved away from single items to my overall aesthetic as I stopped wearing bolder shirts/pieces as well
post #13206 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post


let's start real slow with purchases. Pictues of what you have should help. I will let others chime in but welcome!

Definitely planning on starting slow with purchases.   Right now I really want to stay focused on learning what is good and making the plan for purchases.  

 

I snapped a few pictures of what I currently I have.

 

Suits:

 

Most of these I picked up from a tailor in South America a couple of years ago.   Unfortunately I didn't know a super lot back then so the suits aren't super great.  I suspect jackets maybe a bit short and lapels a bit narrow for the SF liking.      

 

Shirts:  Most of the shirts are from a tailor in South America as well.  

 

White with Green

 

 

Pinks

 

Lavenders

 

Blues

 

Whites

 

Shoes:  The first 2 pairs are AE that I picked up on eBay.   The last 3 are shoes that are from South America.   I don't particularly love any of them.  

 

Ties:  I feel these are my best ties which are all from Tie Bar.   It's gets worse after this.  

:  

 

Pocket Squares:  

post #13207 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Scratch the PS budget, and buy a simple plain white linen one instead. That should suffice for a year. Put that money either towards a nicer suit or shoes. The tie budget can be brought down by a $100 as well.

 

Thanks for the input Monkeyface.   I'll look at bringing the tie budget down and I'll look at redistributing the PS budget to other areas.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post


I'm looking forward to helping mdancel after I'm off mobile.

 

Thanks Claghorn!   I'm looking forward to it.   You started a very nice thread.     

post #13208 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

+1. If Noodles were to wear a bunch of suits in identical cuts, the bolder ones would get a lot more compliments. People aren't complimenting it for the cut (with an obvious exception for that Formosa).

While most regular folk are pretty easy to impress, not in a bad way, its just that most normal people dont obsesses about clothing like we do, they almost always pick up on design over fit. A guy who wears well fitting stuff on the reg will be acknowledged as well dressed, but the guy with the louder stuff with get more oohs and aahs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Suitsupply tan/camel houndstooth Barbera wool/cashmere/camel overcoat. The shoulders are natural, there's some drape in the chest, and the back is completely clean, not a wrinkle in sight. It's £299, and it would be my only overcoat this year. I'd wear it over a suit for work, and over an SC and flannels for the weekends. Yes or no?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Buy it because its awesome.
post #13209 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


While most regular folk are pretty easy to impress, not in a bad way, its just that most normal people dont obsesses about clothing like we do, they almost always pick up on design over fit. A guy who wears well fitting stuff on the reg will be acknowledged as well dressed, but the guy with the louder stuff with get more oohs and aahs.
Buy it because its awesome.

 

Yeah, it is. But would it be ok for everyday wear? I'd probably wear it 5 days a week or so.

post #13210 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Yeah, it is. But would it be ok for everyday wear? I'd probably wear it 5 days a week or so.

Is it Ok? Sure. Hell, its a beaut. Will it go very noticed as an every day coat though? Also sure. Its a loud-ish coat. I prefer a solid, or close to it, for a staple coat, and a bevy of other fun and exciting coats for other times. Im an outerwear whore though.


As well, it might start to look worn as its a lighter color, idrk.
post #13211 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Poor AJL!

Lengthwise the suit looks fine and if the SC the same length. I think that's fine too. Ed Morel made the very important point against shortening namely throwing off the already low button stance. Since you can't change the location of the button, don't shorten.

Now i do think that if you are 5'7" then a shorter BOC is probably something to consider to lengthen the leg line (not that you're short!). If I go by the placement of the hem relative to the fork in the trouser then you could lose an inch on the jacket and still cover the seat (of course this is from a pic). The jacket would look proportionate to your arms and still be balanced top-bottom in terms of how it segments the upper from lower body. But try shorter ones on to see if it makes that difference to you. I think a 29" length would be fine but one has to see.

From the side, the front is not drastically longer than the back, yes?

Well here is a 29" version of same, as posted a bit earlier:

AppleMark
And, so that they're side by side:
AppleMark

So if the longer jacket is a classic length, is the shorter modern or "trendy", as I believe gdl203 alluded to earlier? I think my ideal would be somewhere between the two, though I suppose I'm open to the idea of a range of lengths. Certainly no longer or shorter than either of these, respectively. There certainly is a very different look that each length creates, and perhaps that's not altogether a bad thing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post

Regarding jacket lenght, I'm 6'1 and the BOC measurement I look fo is somewhere between 31.5" or 32". According to a tailor my ideal BOC is 31" and it covers my butt completely. 

Some examples


  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
BOC 32"




BOC 31.1"




BOC 30.7" according to SuitSupply but I measured 31".







BOC 31.5" (Ignore thedimples those are getting fixed)




BOC 32"




BOC 32"




And this was when I didn't knew how a suit should fit. 

This had BOC 29.5"





Somehow I likehow that jacket looks on you, AJL, but if you're not happy with it, everytime you look in a mirror you will not like how it looks and it will bother you. 


Very illustrative, thank you Betel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I think I said this the first time AJL posted these pictures, but the navy jacket with the open quarters that reaches nearly to his fingertips is fine for a suit, but too long for an odd jacket. I believe it's part of a suit, is that right? So, no problem.

Nope, it's the Draper's hopsack SC. I know that you've stated your preference for the shorter length for me, when I earlier posted an Isaia suit jacket that's in the 29" range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick R View Post

Nuts? Maybe. Confused? Definitely.

It looks great. Tidy up the sleeves and rock that bad boy.
post #13212 of 37396
The gunclub is MUCH better, AJL. And not trendy in the slightest. That's a perfect length.

That blue hopsack is too long.

No more hand-wringing.
post #13213 of 37396
Ok.I will go staple. So here are my questions:
1) Formosa has flannel suits. How are they different from your regular wool suits? Recommend them as 3 season suits?
2) @Murlsquirl
Navy birdseye vs Blue plaid, is there recognizable difference btwn the two? Not the best choice if looking to diversify the closet?
post #13214 of 37396
^ Flannel fabrics has a fuzzy nap to them.

You can wear those 10/11 oz flannel suits NMWA has in fall, winter, and part of spring (temp under 70 or so)
post #13215 of 37396
Flannel ruled out.
Thx jrd
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