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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 856

post #12826 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

What do you guys think of roped shoulders on jackets, by the way?

Nearly all my stuff is more of a soft, natural shoulder.

I don't mind them at all. I mainly stick with soft construction because of my drop shoulder. Elio has a nice suit with roped shoulders, it looks great.
post #12827 of 37396

Am I right in thinking that genuine roped shoulders typically have a different seam construction than spalla camicia shoulders? My impression is that spalla requires lapped seams, and that it sometimes seems roped initially just as a result of how the fullness is added, and that that roped-ness gets knocked out by gravity or deliberate pulling on the tailor's part. I'm not sure how a real roped shoulder is constructed at the sleevehead though.

 

That being said, I love both, but I particularly like roped shoulders on more formal suits.

post #12828 of 37396
post #12829 of 37396

Even better, some Googling has turned up a blog with a diagram of lapped shoulder construction, and an explanation of the "con rollino" effect, which appears to be present on the Formosa:

 

http://www.bespokenn.com/post/5277648787/what-is-a-neapolitan-jacket

 

And here's JeffreyD on the pattern and seam manipulation required to rope a shoulder:

 

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/05/sleeves-on-overcoat.html

 

It looks to me like spalla indeed requires a special seam construction, but roping requires more involved pattern work and pressing treatment.

post #12830 of 37396

Noodlers, basic question: thoughts on tan (think: traditional khaki color) wool trousers? Yes/No to someone who already has an array of grays? Should I go for a light brown instead?

post #12831 of 37396

I believe the general consensus is no. Linen and cotton seems fine.

post #12832 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post

Noodlers, basic question: thoughts on tan (think: traditional khaki color) wool trousers? Yes/No to someone who already has an array of grays? Should I go for a light brown instead?

I would not get worsted tan trousers. Get something with some texture or a nice donegal.
post #12833 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by losrockets View Post
 

Noodlers, basic question: thoughts on tan (think: traditional khaki color) wool trousers? Yes/No to someone who already has an array of grays? Should I go for a light brown instead?

 

Murl is on the right track as far as wools go, I think: something tweedy, or even a light tan (i.e. fawn) flannel as an alternative to a cream, which can be kind of affected. Fresco is nice, too, for summer, though I'd like it as a suit.

post #12834 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post


I was just giving you a hard time. JRD kept calling them roped shoulders and I kept saying they were not. The little bit they poke up will settle with wear.

 

Huh. Interesting.


So they're disappearing roped shoulders. 

post #12835 of 37396

Thanks all, will keep my eye out for more pants in the brown spectrum instead.

post #12836 of 37396
Noodles, congrats, you look great! This thread have served you well.

Regarding the tan/brown trousers, I have one pair on the making, but the fabric is not plain. Don't know how to describe it but it's wool.

tumblr_nawac3Evvl1spqdezo1_500.jpg
post #12837 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

Huh. Interesting.


So they're disappearing roped shoulders. 

If you think those shoulders on Noodles' suit are going to end up as completely natural shoulders, you're mistaken. They may become a bit less pronounced, but that's all.
post #12838 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post


If you think those shoulders on Noodles' suit are going to end up as completely natural shoulders, you're mistaken. They may become a bit less pronounced, but that's all.

I was being facetious, but I'm still not sure why they're not considered 'truly' roped. 

post #12839 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post


Noice doodals

Now, don't forget the detail. Good socks, tie those shoes properly and smile that smile. Very good!
post #12840 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
 

I was being facetious, but I'm still not sure why they're not considered 'truly' roped. 

 

I'm not sure it isn't. The more I read about it, the more it seems like the con rollino style is basically just a puffy looking roped shoulder. The seams aren't lapped.

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