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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 809

post #12121 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Ah now that I think of it I did ask him to lessen the waist suppression on some of them, so perhaps the final product will be better. I will be getting most of the tomorrow then some more later. I might leave some with him to make some final changes. Anything else I should look at for tomorrow?

For future commissions (you can't change this on these) I would try lowering the button stance a little bit and also lengthening the jacket. This, along with less waist suppression, should allow the jacket to fall more cleanly over your hips rather than flaring out a bit as it does now.
post #12122 of 37396

I must have glossed over this shoulder issue.

 

By the way, Mr. Field was measuring from my thumbs when remeasuring for the sleeves. 

I told him there's about a 1/2 cm difference in between my thumbs. That leads me to believe that it led to the uneven sleeves the first time. (See my right sleeves).

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #12123 of 37396

Honestly, I think Iso should've tried some RTW suits before going bespoke. Look what happened. 

Iso, how much RTW stuff did you try and what were the results???

post #12124 of 37396
Noodles, next tine have him measure from your cuff perhaps? I sometimes compare the shoulder to cuff length of my jacket and shirts to see how much length the jacket should have. Obviously one needs a proper fitting shirt for this but I'm guessing you're good with that!
post #12125 of 37396
Am I crazy for thinking Isolation would do well to show a tiny bit more shirt underneath his vest in a 3 piece suit?
post #12126 of 37396

Well all I can say it wasn't nearly as good for the price. I never had too much luck.

 

I actually liked the slight flaring of the skirt as it accentuates the waistedness. I saw a nice huntsman jacket that did that and I really liked the look. I feel like this is a personal preference thing as I do like the look, but as always I'm open to advice. I do wonder if the jacket length should be increased, but I actually think it's just about right, though any shorter would be too short.

 

I've met a physiotherapist but for my foot problems, and she's never mentioned my shoulders/back as a problem, but if I have a chance I'll ask about it.

 

I'll get my jackets in heavier fabric back tomorrow and I'll see if they have pulling at the button too, in which case I might leave it with the tailor to let out a bit.

 

edit: also about the waistcoat, I did actually ask to have the buttoning stance lowered slightly for all my other waistcoats. I do like a relatively high stance but I agree that a bit more shown would be better.

post #12127 of 37396

Yeah...I told him my thumbs are crooked but he kept on measuring from the thumbs. Imma gonna go nuts if the sleeves come out uneven tomorrow.

post #12128 of 37396
Isolation, serious question: do you have mild scoliosis? That shoulder drop is quite a bit. Or have you had a shoulder injury?

To the others, would one put padding in the lower shoulder to even them out?
post #12129 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

Isolation, serious question: do you have mild scoliosis? That shoulder drop is quite a bit. Or have you had a shoulder injury?

To the others, would one put padding in the lower shoulder to even them out?

I think pretty much all dropped shoulders come from some kind of scoliosis (this is why the hip is usually higher on that side too).

As I said earlier, you can even out with padding, but this is currently not what the cool kids are doing.
post #12130 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

I actually liked the slight flaring of the skirt as it accentuates the waistedness. I saw a nice huntsman jacket that did that and I really liked the look. I feel like this is a personal preference thing as I do like the look, but as always I'm open to advice.

True, it's personal preference, and Huntsman does sometimes do this.
post #12131 of 37396

Leaving personal preference aside and noting that I do like this ahem "modern/fashionable" trend and I want to get it to look as waisted without sacrificing the overall look too much (lol topman), do you think the pulling at the button is a significant issue that I should fix? The main problem is I will be leaving Hong Kong soon and if I ask the tailor to fix it I'd have to get him to ship it to me after which can cost more and such.

 

I don't know how much of it is me being made overly sensitive to the button pulling since hanging around SF, and how much of it is that it's an actual notable distraction and will look badly fitted. Part of me don't think it's all that bad and I can probably live with wearing it, but I've got it drilled into my head that you should basically see no creases in the button area, ever, which I'm not even sure if it's actually true, but maybe it is? =/

post #12132 of 37396

Actually I figured it out I probably have just been eating way too much stuff whilst in hong kong and should just work out more.

post #12133 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Actually I figured it out I probably have just been eating way too much stuff whilst in hong kong and should just work out more.
Problem solved.
post #12134 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


I think pretty much all dropped shoulders come from some kind of scoliosis (this is why the hip is usually higher on that side too).

As I said earlier, you can even out with padding, but this is currently not what the cool kids are doing.

 

What are they doing? Nothing?

post #12135 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

What are they doing? Nothing?

The shoulders are cut so that they follow the wearer's natural shoulder line, which is not nothing - a RTW jacket will not do this - but it doesn't nothing to "hide" the dropped shoulder.

Mina Adamo of Napolisumisura discusses this issue a little bit in my interview with her here:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/335210/napoli-su-misura-interview-part-ii
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