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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 804

post #12046 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
 

 

Haha thanks. When I said offer, I meant interview by the way. I haven't been accepted anywhere yet. I probably won't know till the spring at the earliest. Sigh. It's so drawn out...

 

The way it works for this is:

 

Primary application, secondary applications (school specific), wait, get interviews/rejections, go to interviews, hopefully get accepted somewhere. I've heard back from one place for an interview so far. I applied to over 40 schools. It's a bit nuts.

post #12047 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeKiwi View Post
 

 

@Isolation just a thought. 

 

Here's what you know: (1) your drop right shoulder is going to be a perennial problem with your fits and (2) light weight fabrics accentuate it even more.  Accordingly, this suggests to me a possible approach to mitigate the known problem and its worst effects.   I think your standard approach in future should preferably be to: (1) use medium to heavy weight fabrics only -- never light weight and (2) go for half lined for all your summer/tropical jackets to allow for the heavier fabrics.  In other words, this could be your own standardised "jacket chassis" approach.  However, it would require you to go against the trend towards light weight fabrics.    

 

Nice new commissions, btw.

 

Edit:  Obviously, continue to have structured right shoulder, as shown above on the pale blue jacket.  Very nice!  Conduit cut?  

 

Heya. I didn't specify it as a conduit cut, and I had to look up what that means, but I suppose it's quite similar. I just told the tailor what I wanted and was quite influenced by steed stuff and some articles that in retrospect were probably conduit cut or inspired by that kind of cut.

 

I think you're right about fabric, but I did want something that I can wear in hot weather because I felt like getting light cloth with quarter lining is my way to wear suits/jackets as often as possible even in hotter places. Being from the UK though I'll probably end up with mostly weightier fabrics. Haven't considered heavier fabrics with quarterlining for a "medium"  weight effect though, not sure how that would work.

post #12048 of 37403
Pants fit nicely. Pix to come.
Jacket will be ready Tuesday!!!
post #12049 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

Pants fit nicely. Pix to come.
Jacket will be ready Tuesday!!!

Sweet. Now you know what you need. Formosa MTO program is up and running at NMWA.
post #12050 of 37403
For realz?!!! I will check out their website!!!
post #12051 of 37403

You are by far the bravest man in your bathroom.

post #12052 of 37403

 

Visited my tailor today...I'm thinking of having this made as a sport coat....maybe with the brown beneath as trousers to match. I have to admit the thought of a 3-piece suit crossed my mind too...

 

 

Thoughts?

post #12053 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Visited my tailor today...I'm thinking of having this made as a sport coat....maybe with the brown beneath as trousers to match. I have to admit the thought of a 3-piece suit crossed my mind too...

 

 

Thoughts?

 

It's hard to see the scale on that picture, but the pattern seems a bit too small for a sport coat. It might be a nitpick, but if you're going mtm/bespoke you should be able to find a more suitable pattern. A 3 piece would look great though, especially with a DB vest.

post #12054 of 37403
That Carnet fabric book (trip across Europe) is so cool. Some of the stuff is pretty stereotypical about the various regions and the cloths they choose to illustrate them - but overall a much more enjoyable way to browse through fabrics.

That glenplaid is a nice choice for a sport coat btw. I believe it's from the Tallia di Delfino "Brughera" book. Lovely jacketing fabrics but not suitable for trousers / suit.
post #12055 of 37403
Suit Supply.
Lazio line.
40R
Seems like the jacket certainly fits well.
post #12056 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

That Carnet fabric book (trip across Europe) is so cool. Some of the stuff is pretty stereotypical about the various regions and the cloths they choose to illustrate them - but overall a much more enjoyable way to browse through fabrics.

That glenplaid is a nice choice for a sport coat btw. I believe it's from the Tallia di Delfino "Brughera" book. Lovely jacketing fabrics but not suitable for trousers / suit.

 

You know your stuff very well....it is the Grand Tour autumn/winter by carnet and fratelli tallia di delfino...and it is an extremely fun book as they break it down by different european cities...

 

There were several swatches that I wanted to made up...the one I posted was the one that caught my eye the most...but also some great brown and blue tweeds and some amazing gun checks...

 

also not so cheap though...haha

post #12057 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

 

Heya. I didn't specify it as a conduit cut, and I had to look up what that means, but I suppose it's quite similar. I just told the tailor what I wanted and was quite influenced by steed stuff and some articles that in retrospect were probably conduit cut or inspired by that kind of cut.

 

I think you're right about fabric, but I did want something that I can wear in hot weather because I felt like getting light cloth with quarter lining is my way to wear suits/jackets as often as possible even in hotter places. Being from the UK though I'll probably end up with mostly weightier fabrics. Haven't considered heavier fabrics with quarterlining for a "medium"  weight effect though, not sure how that would work.

 

Heya @Isolation.  I think the (man about town) Conduit cut may have evolved from the earlier (country) Huntsman cut, which has similar look (not fit).  Barring the fabric variations for their respective town and country roles, of course.  I think the modern London cut, is a superset or descendent of the above cuts.  And, happily sir, you're in London! 

 

Talking with you about fabric weights reminded me of the light weight fabrics of years gone by.  Specifically, circa the late eighties, when I commissioned my first bespoke lounge suit.  Yeah mate, I'm that old.  Anyway, yesterday's light weight fabrics are similar to today's heavy weight fabrics, believe it or not.  The fabrics keep getting lighter and finer.  Progress?

 

As I spend half the year in tropical South East Asia, you'd think I would be pro light weight fabrics.  Surprisingly, I'm not.

 

Personally, I find the light weight fabrics (wool blend/worsted) "high maintenance" and not very travel friendly.  Specifically, they're easy to wrinkle and require frequent pressing to look their best. Also, I wonder how long the fabrics will last before requiring replacement?

 

Consequently, I recently I instructed my HK tailor that I've gone off light weight fabrics completely.  I now prefer medium weight fabrics (for use in summer/tropics) to heavy weight fabrics (for use in three season/temperate).  With my summer/tropical use jackets -- made from medium weight fabric -- half lined, to better ventilate heat.  

 

Interestingly, my HK tailor (who shall remain nameless, of course) confessed that all his own suits are made from medium weight fabric or higher -- for similar reasons to my own.  So, the next time a custom cutter or tailor recommends a shiny new light weight fabric to you, you may wish to enquire as to the weight of the fabric of his own jacket.   Do as they do, not as they say!

 

Having said that, I do have two new lounge suit commissions -- work in progress presently -- that are being made from modern light weight fabrics.  Alas, they were commissioned before I started going cold on light weight fabrics.  If I could start over, then I would change the fabric specification to medium weight.  Live and learn.

 

JMHO.  DYODD.


Edited by BespokeKiwi - 9/24/14 at 6:34pm
post #12058 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

Suit Supply.
Lazio line.
40R
Seems like the jacket certainly fits well. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
It fits you. Trim silhouette. Are you buying?
post #12059 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

It fits you. Trim silhouette. Are you buying?

Yes it does. Buy it. I plan on stopping by the DC store on Tuesday just to check it out.
post #12060 of 37403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

Yes it does. Buy it. I plan on stopping by the DC store on Tuesday just to check it out.
Nice. I will be headed to Georgetown on Tuesday to pick up the Formosa jacket. It should be done and ready for wear...finally.

Murl, let us know what u think of the fbaric quality of the suits they carry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

It fits you. Trim silhouette. Are you buying?
Yup. I think the Lazio fits the best. I will most likely get 1 or 2 from SS while I stock up on 4 additional Formosa suits.
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