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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 789

post #11821 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Without seeing it, and with the disclaimer that I am not a tailor, I'm guessing that this could be alleviated by letting out the side seams a little bit to give more space across the shoulder blades.

I appreciate both the input and the disclaimer unbel, but I'm not sure we're connecting.

Put another way, it's not tightness across the shoulders that is the main issue (though there's a bit of that also) , it's tightness around each shoulder. The armscye, where it meets the top of the sleeve head, is too narrow.

Forgive me if you understood my explanation the first time and have proposed a potential solution as such; I am as confused as anyone when it comes to describing and interpreting such matters.
post #11822 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

I appreciate both the input and the disclaimer unbel, but I'm not sure we're connecting.

Put another way, it's not tightness across the shoulders that is the main issue (though there's a bit of that also) , it's tightness around each shoulder. The armscye, where it meets the top of the sleeve head, is too narrow.

Forgive me if you understood my explanation the first time and have proposed a potential solution as such; I am as confused as anyone when it comes to describing and interpreting such matters.

I think I understand what you mean - but if it's something that happens only when you move your arms forward, it could be that extra material across your back (possibly using the back seam instead of the sides) could move forward to give you extra space around the armscye. Anyway, if there's a solution to be had, it will have to be a capable tailor that finds it. If he can figure out some way to do it through the back or side seams rather than messing with the armscye that's obviously a lot easier and less risky.
post #11823 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Any reasonable recourse for too-high armholes, or am I SOL? Recently received my first (of 3) Formosa mto SC's and after wearing it around a bit, I realized that the armholes are too tight when I bring my arms forward.

I tried on a suit initially to check for fit, and while it seemed a bit snug across the back (I believe I mentioned as much here a few months back, when I posted a few shots of both a 48 and a 50), I did not detect this additional issue.

I am bummed, to say the least, and, having done a (very) brief bit of research on this topic, I am not optimistic. The thought of having somebody tinker with this beautiful jacket is also a bit unsettling.

If arm holes are too high it will dig into your armpit making it uncomfortable and the jacket won't sit probably on your shoulders. A simple test is too feel how close is your armpit to the bottom of the arm hole. You can have the arm holes widen by a competent tailor that will alleviate the problem, I've had this work done before it's not a major alteration.
post #11824 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

If arm holes are too high it will dig into your armpit making it uncomfortable and the jacket won't sit probably on your shoulders. A simple test is too feel how close is your armpit to the bottom of the arm hole. You can have the arm holes widen by a competent tailor that will alleviate the problem, I've had this work done before it's not a major alteration.

Thanks for this tchoy. I did the pit test, and there's very little space, I'm guessing less than an inch, possibly only 1/2". Certainly less than any other jacket I own. How I missed this the first time around is a valid question; my only response would be I was focussing on other aspects of fit.

While it is reassuring to hear you say it's not a major alteration, I am still confused as to how the armhole could be lowered without also impacting armscye in a major way, i.e. requiring some kind of major reworking. I will defer to your experience, however, and bring it to a competent tailor for an assessment. While I'm at it, I suppose I could have him let out the back seam a little to ease the tightness across the shoulders. This I would imagine is a relatively simple task.

If it sounds like maybe I should've gone up a size, I will point out the shoulders, chest and waist are all quite good. Hopefully these adjustments can be made at minimal cost with maximal results.
post #11825 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

If arm holes are too high it will dig into your armpit making it uncomfortable and the jacket won't sit probably on your shoulders. A simple test is too feel how close is your armpit to the bottom of the arm hole. You can have the arm holes widen by a competent tailor that will alleviate the problem, I've had this work done before it's not a major alteration.

Thanks for this tchoy. I did the pit test, and there's very little space, I'm guessing less than an inch, possibly only 1/2". Certainly less than any other jacket I own. How I missed this the first time around is a valid question; my only response would be I was focussing on other aspects of fit.

While it is reassuring to hear you say it's not a major alteration, I am still confused as to how the armhole could be lowered without also impacting armscye in a major way, i.e. requiring some kind of major reworking. I will defer to your experience, however, and bring it to a competent tailor for an assessment. While I'm at it, I suppose I could have him let out the back seam a little to ease the tightness across the shoulders. This I would imagine is a relatively simple task.

If it sounds like maybe I should've gone up a size, I will point out the shoulders, chest and waist are all quite good. Hopefully these adjustments can be made at minimal cost with maximal results.

I've had armholes lowered without any difficulty.
post #11826 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post

Thanks for this tchoy. I did the pit test, and there's very little space, I'm guessing less than an inch, possibly only 1/2". Certainly less than any other jacket I own. How I missed this the first time around is a valid question; my only response would be I was focussing on other aspects of fit.

While it is reassuring to hear you say it's not a major alteration, I am still confused as to how the armhole could be lowered without also impacting armscye in a major way, i.e. requiring some kind of major reworking. I will defer to your experience, however, and bring it to a competent tailor for an assessment. While I'm at it, I suppose I could have him let out the back seam a little to ease the tightness across the shoulders. This I would imagine is a relatively simple task.

If it sounds like maybe I should've gone up a size, I will point out the shoulders, chest and waist are all quite good. Hopefully these adjustments can be made at minimal cost with maximal results.

The armhole gets widen at at the bottom just a small area of the armscye, the sleeve doesn't have to come off the jacket, it's only open up slightly and reattach, shoulders and other area are not touch, bringing it to a competent tailor is the key. You jacket will be much more comfortable after this alteration.
post #11827 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by tchoy View Post

The armhole gets widen at at the bottom just a small area of the armscye, the sleeve doesn't have to come off the jacket, it's only open up slightly and reattach, shoulders and other area are not touch, bringing it to a competent tailor is the key. You jacket will be much more comfortable after this alteration.


Thanks for the detailed explanation.
post #11828 of 37482
It's Groundhog Day!
Looking for a great tie to go with the new Formosa. I have no ties with stripes so here are my two finalists. Which do you think will pait better?
The Hober?

The C******?


Thanks!
post #11829 of 37482
Hober
post #11830 of 37482

I do like that Hober...and I think it will look solid with the Formosa you picked up...

 

...below is my most recent striped tie addition

post #11831 of 37482

I think you should get the "Tie Your Tie" one I posted on the previous page; it's somehow warmer and more interesting.  But otherwise, of the two you posted, the Hober is cleaner and more professional-looking, go for that.

post #11832 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Noodles View Post

It's Groundhog Day!
Looking for a great tie to go with the new Formosa. I have no ties with stripes so here are my two finalists. Which do you think will pait better?
The Hober? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The C******?


Thanks!

 

 

TBH, I don't like either of them. I'd say, follow mimo's advice. Also, I would be wary of buying ties to pair with a specific suit. You shouldn't think in set combos, but buy nice, versatile ties that you can combine at will.

post #11833 of 37482

Fellow Noodlers - looking for some advice re: casual shirts to wear under SCs for summer, sans tie. Something nice and linen, perhaps pullover? A good wavy collar roll is a must, but I do not like BDs. The Ingleses from NMWA have exactly the type of thing I'm looking for - nice soft collar, plenty of roll, except their sleeves are a bit short and they are a bit tight across the chest. What other options do I have?

Alternatively, perhaps a long-sleeve polo with a nice collar, like the BD one from the armoury but hopefully a bit less expensive...

post #11834 of 37482
Noodles, get the first one. It is an awesome tie and is basically idiot proof.
post #11835 of 37482
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezentius View Post

Fellow Noodlers - looking for some advice re: casual shirts to wear under SCs for summer, sans tie. Something nice and linen, perhaps pullover? A good wavy collar roll is a must, but I do not like BDs. The Ingleses from NMWA have exactly the type of thing I'm looking for - nice soft collar, plenty of roll, except their sleeves are a bit short and they are a bit tight across the chest. What other options do I have?


Alternatively, perhaps a long-sleeve polo with a nice collar, like the BD one from the armoury but hopefully a bit less expensive...

Get the Eidos polo. It's called the lupo.
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