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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 764

post #11446 of 37395
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Opinions on this tweed for a sportcoat? Can navy windowpane work for a tweed? We've established that blue with windowpane is not ideal for a worsted wool. Too evocative of suiting

It's Butt of Lewis #188

http://www.buttoflewistextiles.co.uk/products.html

188.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

^^Heck yes.  Beautiful.  Grey flannels, rusty tweed tie and some fat brogues...lovely.

Like the sound of that, don't wrap it I'll wear it nod[1].gif
post #11447 of 37395
@jrd617, seems fine to me.
post #11448 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonRaphael View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

 
You guys know anything about braces, are pants for suspenders necessarily cut significantly differently, or is it possible to get trousers with belt loops as well as suspender buttons with the idea of wearing either (not both at the same time?) ie use suspenders if wearing a waistcoat or double breasted jacket and therefore braces will never be seen, but if not then wear belt. Additionally are clip on suspenders that bad if you're wearing them in a such a way that they won't be seen at all?

I just want to give it a try to see what the comfort is like, so I don't feel like I want to go all the way and get trousers than cannot be worn with a belt. Plus sometimes I just like the aesthetics of a belt.

Trousers with pleats are usually cut fuller because they were usually worn by heavier men that needed more space. I don't thin trousers with pleats that are cut slim would look good because the pleats would flare if the seat was to be strained.

As for buttons or clips, I prefer buttons for the aesthetics and I believe that's practice on SF. Furthermore, consensus is that you should remove the belt loops if you use braces. Personally I haven't removed the belt loops on mine, partially because I'm lazy but also because I enjoy wearing belts inbetween times.

As for the usage of belts and suspenders at the same time, it depends on your occupation. Sweden's former Minister of Finance/Treasury Secretary Gunnar Sträng used both to depict restrictiveness and caution with the state's money. So unless you work as a treasurer, you should avoid this look. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


The bolded bit is nonsense. Pleats aren't there to make it easier to fit portly men. They are there to provide ease for *anyone* who moves while wearing pants and still retain a clean line. EVERYONE can wear pleated pants, and slim men look great in them. It's important to keep in mind that pleats don't look great on anyone who is wearing his pants at the hip instead of the waist.

As for suspenders and belt loops, who cares? I wear RTW suits, and all but one came with loops. No one sees them or my suspenders unless I take off my jacket.
post #11449 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

It's important to keep in mind that pleats don't look great on anyone who is wearing his pants at the hip instead of the waist.

This is the important bit, here.

I've come full 180 and now much prefer pleats on all of my pents.
post #11450 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

[...]
As for suspenders and belt loops, who cares? I wear RTW suits, and all but one came with loops. No one sees them or my suspenders unless I take off my jacket.

 

Yes.  There was a time in living memory when braces were almost like underwear in that they were not intended to be seen under most circumstances. 

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #11451 of 37395

I wear my pants very high up...prefer a high rise...to hide a bit of gut...pleats look decent if you have a jacket on...but if you take the jacket off...it gives you a pear shape...

post #11452 of 37395
Hi all,

Looking for some advice on ties and pocket squares. I see many conflicting articles.

I'm looking to purchase three ties and three pocket squares to boot for maximum versatility and for every occasion (I will rarely need to wear one). The suit in question will be navy.

I have two knits, one navy and one baby blue but I'm looking to get at least one appropriate for an interview and the other two for any occasion.

What combos would you suggest? I'm going to avoid grenadines until I've developed more of a style and learnt my favourite knot as when I contacted Sam Hober he suggested as I am young, and they are delicate, I should not jump in yet.

I also don't want to spend a fortune maybe $300-350 on the ties and PS.

Brand irrelevant etc. just the colours or weaves I should look out for.

Thanks in advance
post #11453 of 37395

And I know many will say regimentals but being British, I think I might want to avoid them. I'm not sure on the etiquette of wearing one.

post #11454 of 37395
You can probably get 3 Hober ties and 3 pocket squares for pretty close to your budget. I'd heavily consider just sticking with that. As far as ties are concerned, it really depends on what context you wear a tie in. If you mostly wear ties with a suit or maybe a navy blazer, recommendations will be a bit different than if you also wear them with sport coats. I know you said you wear them rarely and mentioned a navy suit, but should we only be thinking about the suit?

A silver / grey diamond weave / oxford silk / twill is classic with a navy suit and white shirt. I'd probably get something like this just go to with the navy suit if nothing else. Other ties will depend a bit on context. Something in burgundy in a similar fabric range will look good with a light blue shirt and some sport coats as well as the suit. A black knit / grenadine can also be pretty versatile.

As far as pocket squares, at least one in white linen is essential. Others will have differing opinions on the others, but generally I would avoid pocket squares with tie-like patterns and try to find things that can be worn in a few different ways (i.e. not some solid silk square but rather something with a range of colors in it).
post #11455 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

You can probably get 3 Hober ties and 3 pocket squares for pretty close to your budget. I'd heavily consider just sticking with that. As far as ties are concerned, it really depends on what context you wear a tie in. If you mostly wear ties with a suit or maybe a navy blazer, recommendations will be a bit different than if you also wear them with sport coats. I know you said you wear them rarely and mentioned a navy suit, but should we only be thinking about the suit?

A silver / grey diamond weave / oxford silk / twill is classic with a navy suit and white shirt. I'd probably get something like this just go to with the navy suit if nothing else. Other ties will depend a bit on context. Something in burgundy in a similar fabric range will look good with a light blue shirt and some sport coats as well as the suit. A black knit / grenadine can also be pretty versatile.

As far as pocket squares, at least one in white linen is essential. Others will have differing opinions on the others, but generally I would avoid pocket squares with tie-like patterns and try to find things that can be worn in a few different ways (i.e. not some solid silk square but rather something with a range of colors in it).


Hi,

I'm starting up so will only own one suit this year which will be navy or midnight navy, I figured it mattered most to match to the suit as most likely when I will always wear  tie and with a navy blazer , which I own too, would usually be sans tie or more 'you can get away with it'.

I will not be wearing with sports coats but only a navy blazer or suit. 

I was going to skip any black ties, I don't know why, maybe my associations with black tie? My shirts which I about to have made will all be relatively plain. So lilac, white, blue. A few ginghams but I do not see myself wearing these inside a suit, only with a navy jacket. Will most likely be wearing a white or blue shirt (only shirts I am having with cufflinks) or again, a blue shade or lilac. So a plain / safe range of colours for versatility and to allow me to have some basics before I try and do something different. 

I was thinking a burgundy tie would be perfect but was unaware of what weave would be the most formal / appropriate for an interview?

Would it be best to stick with solids if just picking three out or is there something else that could be recommended? 

I am not so worried about pocket squares as I imagine these are easier to select after picking out ties. It was ties I am struggling with, as to which will give me a strong foundation. I don't think I need more than three for this year, and I'd like to buy more next year as I buy more items of course.

Thank you for your time and feedback,

post #11456 of 37395
^ Something in the silver/grey range is still definitely a must. I prefer to avoid satin ties or anything with too much sheen, as they are not as versatile. The diamond weave and oxford weave from Hober and maybe some of their twills fit the bill here. After that, I would go with a burgundy solid. I think a navy solid or navy pindot (I think your first three should be solid, but a pindot on either navy or burgundy can work very well if you want a subtle pattern) would also be very useful. Pairing navy ties with a navy suit can be challenging, though, so I'd either get a lighter navy tie if your suit is color to midnight in color or a midnight blue tie if your suit is closer to a lighter navy in color to give some differentiation (also search for some navy or navy threads and commentary). It is simply too useful of a color to ignore entirely. I think black ties are very versatile, but if you want to avoid black, I think that navy, silver/grey and burgundy are your best bets (I would not do a grey pindot, but the other two colors could work with pindots). Black and dark green would be next.
post #11457 of 37395
Here's a silver/grey oxford weave Hober with a white shirt and RAF blue / light navy linen suit.

post #11458 of 37395
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Here's a silver/grey oxford weave Hober with a white shirt and RAF blue / light navy linen suit.


That tie looks great. I will try and find something like it. Maybe even the same from Sam if he still does it. I don't want to go for sheen either, I think it can look cheap.

Will take above comments and buy accordingly. I may leave the navy tie till last then until I can wear the suit and hold a tie against it.

Can I ask what weave I should get the burgundy in? Similiar to your grey to avoid a bright sheen that looks like a clubbing tie?

Thanks again!
post #11459 of 37395
^ Yeah, I'd do a similar weave with a bit of texture (could be twill, diamond, or oxford like the grey tie above). Other way to do it is to make the burgundy tie a pindot, which is a pretty classic and conservative pattern that should work pretty well.
post #11460 of 37395

I don't think you can go wrong with a navy repp silk tie...

 

it goes with just about everything...suits, sport coats, etc.

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