Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 753

post #11281 of 37533
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Well that's unfortunate, I was quite happy with it, and for what it's worth it's not that expensive. Can you be more specific where the problems are, with which piece and where? I'm still hoping for substantial changes with the db blazer. Like I said the tailor (I assume you mean the glen plaid) is going to widen the trousers more at the calves (+ the right thigh) and he reckons that's what's causing most of the bunching. I'm not too happy right now with the moleskin either, but I don't know how much of it is down to the fabric. Also I forgot to mention but the tailor already noted the sleeve pitch and will be fixing it.


There are no clean lines. The shoulders are uneven. The pants are bunching. The sleves are rotating everywhere.




If it was me and if possible, I would walk out on all of these commissions.


EDIT: My drawing came out to small in size, but you get the point. I hope. =)

post #11282 of 37533
Moleskin is a heavy cotton, so should drape very cleanly. Not wrinkle prone at all compared to most cottons. Compare your pictures to voxsartoria's pics. I'm not saying yours should be as nice or as clean, but it's a good example. Claghorns BNtailor stuff is also a good example.
post #11283 of 37533

Thanks for the comments. I will say though that a lot of the things you noted the tailor did already note and will be changing. I am paying 540 USD for CMT for reference, which I think is fairly cheap, and I still feel okay about it. I'll post the final fitting where I hope most of these problems will be fixed. I will keep my fingers crossed an what not. It is a first suit and I was told by more than one tailor that I'm especially hard to fit well for even before I was knowledgeable enough to tell at all how well a suit fit, so I think there's some of that.


As for the moleskin, yeah right now I'm not very happy and I've mentioned it. This is a different tailor and for me is a budget tailor. Again for reference they charge 360 and 300 USD for a full and half canvassed CMT, which is not much more than a nice OTR suit, and I think is fairly reasonable if I look at it as such.

post #11284 of 37533
Why don't you put that money together and get one or two excellent suits? Quality over quantity.
post #11285 of 37533
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Why don't you put that money together and get one or two excellent suits? Quality over quantity.

I don't have enough versatile pieces. I also want too many things. I am a sucker.


I mean I feel like this is so far a huge improvement over the stuff I've had before, but you guys obviously have a higher standard so atm I'm mostly deferring to your opinions. If everyone really thinks it's hopeless and I should give up on these tailors I'll probably listen but I think I'll wait until the final product is ready for that.


I will add that especially for my partner it's impossible for them to find anything that fits halfway well OTR (size 34 is too big, and most OTR stuff that offers those sizes are awful) so for them at least it's a way to get pieces they can actually wear and look decent to most people (unfortunately that has priority over having stuff that I'd be proud to show the tougher SF crowd), not to get something perfect or near perfect. For me also it's a step up from OTR and also I can have control on the stylings and fabrics so even if the cut is not perfect, it's still better and I can get it in material and stylings I like. I don't think it's a poor choice if I make that comparison since the resulting price is not much more than OTR, and the fit's better. Obviously it's no contest if I compare these to to having jackets made with a Saville Row tailor, or even say WW Chan, who are significantly more expensive (2.5-3x more).

post #11286 of 37533
The suit already has its main shape, so not much can be changed. The fact that their initial fittings were so bad should be tell you enough about their quality.
post #11287 of 37533

Hmm also last time I got a suit from Chan it wasn't that great and people on SF didn't like it very much either (which is what made me think it's partially just my body that's hard to fit for, as they are meant to be quite good and gave me quite a few fittings), so I didn't think it was worth it to pay the extra. Perhaps after this I'll just try get stuff made from an SR house? I'm not sure what my other alternatives are.

post #11288 of 37533
I'm sorry @Isolation but you'd get better results with RTW but like most things in life, lessons learned. Your subsequent commissions will be better, I hope.
post #11289 of 37533

Aw I didn't think it was be so unanimiously negative. I really didn't think it'd be considered worse than RTW though, is that not a bit harsh? There's no RTW that doesn't look awful on my shoulders anyway, and I like being able to pick my fabrics/stylings. In any case I hope it's not faux pas, but I'm forwarding your comments to my tailor anyway =P I wonder what he'll say.


Anyway I'm sad now. =[ Think it's a bit late to change tailors at least for this trip, and I'd already given them a bunch of my fabric. I don't feel like it's too expensive of a lesson anyway, and that's the thing. Maybe you guys would be ashamed to wear less than perfect, but at least now I have some stuff to wear over winter.


Now I just wonder if I should still get that SC made with the gray/brown windowpane I posted earlier. I guess that's a no from you guys? =P


Anyway as it is I've already committed to getting a few more pieces made so I'm depending on you guys to salvage the situation or at least make the best out of it. Thanks a lot for the comments so far. If you note anything specific I should tell the tailor before I get the rest made please let me know, I'd greatly appreciate it.

post #11290 of 37533
There are significant issues here, but it is possible that it can be salvaged. If not by this tailor, maybe by someone with better skills (and eyesight)

If he's even considering letting you walk out with these suits, if he is not pulling his hair out and cursing at himself when looking at these jacket backs, I would say that he has little pride in his work.
post #11291 of 37533
There's a big range between perfect and terrible. You're on the bottom end of that spectrum. Aim to have at least an above average fit. Also, don't insult your tailor by showing our harsh comments. You're not paying much, so you can't expect much either. There aren't really any deals in bespoke, you get what you pay for. bNtailor might be the exception, but I'm assuming they'll raise their prices soon.
post #11292 of 37533

Who are bNtailor, is it a korean company..? What do you think my best options are in the UK/London? I assumed SR tailors, but I am not sure if there are good alternatives.

post #11293 of 37533
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Who are bNtailor, is it a korean company..? What do you think my best options are in the UK/London? I assumed SR tailors, but I am not sure if there are good alternatives.

Many Italian tailors travel to London for trunk shows. Look for Napoli Su Misura for example. Also, English Steed (Voxsartoria's favourite tailors) makes beautiful MTM clothes at a fairly humane cost, and bespoke at a slightly higher cost. Their MTM will be way better than the HK bespoke clothes you've ordered now.

I'm sorry you got screwed over so bad with these suits, because some of the issues can't really be corrected without the garments looking off. For example, the sleeve pitch on the patterned jacket: They'll have to loosen the sleeve from the shoulder seam and rotate it backward by several degrees for the sleeve not to look so extremely rumpled. This will cause the pattern matching in the shoulders to be uneven.

You should have started off with one suit and waited to see the results. Then, if you liked it, ordered more with those patterns. See it as an expensive lesson learned.
Edited by EFV - 9/3/14 at 6:42am
post #11294 of 37533
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

More than that: hurrah for those that support and buy beautiful gifts that feed that "lunacy"!

I hope that when I reach the 25 year mark, my wife will begin to feed my lunacy.
Originally Posted by MGoCrimson View Post

Can anyone in the DC/Baltimore metro area recommend a good dry cleaner? I've never needed a suit cleaned before and am looking for somewhere to take a LB Sartoriale I picked up off B&S. Is Parkway in Bethesda the best option?

@in stitches
 @The Noodles
 Your input would be greatly appreciated

There is only one cleaner that I ever take anything too. Polovoy.
post #11295 of 37533
This is probably going to sound like a dick of a thing to say, but in my opinion, any bespoke suit that is costing you less than about $1500 is probably not worth buying.

There are tons and tons of guys out there doing bespoke work on the cheap, and most of it is utter crap.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)