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How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?
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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 752post #11266 of 372529/2/14 at 1:01pmpost #11267 of 372529/2/14 at 1:11pmpost #11268 of 372529/2/14 at 1:17pmpost #11269 of 372529/2/14 at 1:21pmpost #11270 of 372529/2/14 at 2:00pmpost #11271 of 372529/2/14 at 3:04pmpost #11272 of 372529/2/14 at 9:17pmpost #11273 of 372529/2/14 at 10:12pmpost #11274 of 372529/2/14 at 10:27pm
Can anyone in the DC/Baltimore metro area recommend a good dry cleaner? I've never needed a suit cleaned before and am looking for somewhere to take a LB Sartoriale I picked up off B&S. Is Parkway in Bethesda the best option?post #11275 of 372529/3/14 at 12:29ampost #11276 of 372529/3/14 at 3:12am
Anyway, photo goodness again! Advice and comments greatly appreciated.
First my Dream Bespoke, Gray Glen Plaid 3 piece. Next fitting should be final-ish so would like any problems addressed if you see any.
Changes: calves let out, elbow area let out slightly, not sure if to add more roping, said no, gorge going to be lowered slightly. Also they said they'd tried to address the drop on the right side but if they overdo it the checks won't match well so they did a compromise and this is why there is still some fabric loose.
Dream Burgundy Double Breasted Jacket, first fittingDream Burgundy DB Jacket (Click to show)
Changes: Asked to have lapel widened (see the left side/stage right), button stance widened also and slightly lowered to where the chalk marks are to allow more gorge. They will let out the fabric so there's more overlap fabric, and again to allow for wide button stance. Will ask for more roping for this one (than the previous jacket).
Dream Fox Tweed SC for my partner
Changes: not sure about button stance, think they have long legs so even though in these pictures it looks like a low gorge it might look better this way, will take better picture next time. They are also worried that the sleeve width, while looks good on their own, might make their hands/wrist look way too small, but we said for now we'll keep it as it is, thoughts? To not they don't want it to look like a woman's jacket (which unfortunately is exactly what happened with the other tailor), so for purposes of comments treat this as a men's jacket please.
Moda Republic Olive Moleskin Suit (mine)
Changes: They haven't sorted the cuffs yet, I do think moleskin is probably a more difficult material to work with, but I am less happy with the fit. I did ask for quite a slim waist but this needs to be let out, so we'll see for next fitting. Trousers will also be shortened (as pinned on left leg). I really like the fabric though, really comfy and warm (too warm here, but you know). They will be fixing the shoulder as well.
Moda Olive MoleskinModa Olive Moleskin (Click to show)
Changes: Asked them to lengthen the jacket as much as possible. I did specify to have them use a men's tailor/styling but I guess there's some communication problems because I overheard/heard the tailor mention when I asked for some changes that it "won't be like a women's suit anymore" even though we said from the start we don't want a feminine styling, because let's be honest when people mean women's styling they basically mean destroy-all-the-clean-lines-and strong-silhouette-to-make-hips-butt-and-boobs-bigger. Anyway they don't have much fabric for that so it's a bit worrying, but they will make jacket longer where possible and let waist out slightly so the skirt doesn't flare out. Right now I think it doesn't look great because the hips clearly look wider than the shoulders. I know SF likes open quarters but I think in my partner's case it need not be so extreme.
Also I asked for the trousers the thigh needs to bet let out more because it's hugging the flesh as opposed to having a clean line down, which I guess is hard with the material anyway, but it again accentuates the hips too much. The pocket seems to flare out even when standing straight, I have no idea how to fix that. Please advise? Sorry about the photos, it doesn't show what I mean too well.
Overall not too happy with the fit/styling as I did specify a few times about not having it too feminine, but the shoulders look okay, and I think that's the important part as the rest can mostly be changed. I wonder if the button stance can be moved up to make the jacket less short for the next jacket. I guess it's too late for the button stance, but I can change it for future jackets. Do you think perhaps a 3 or 3r2.5 jacket would be better for them maybe? Seems like the gorge is a bit too low, but I wanted it to make the torso/chest look bigger as their legs are quite long. Perhaps no change is necessary if the jacket is made longer.
Sorry for the long post, thanks for looking.post #11277 of 372529/3/14 at 3:14ampost #11278 of 372529/3/14 at 3:35amIronist, that looks terrible for bespoke. So many wrinkles everywhere. The trousers are way too tight, the fabric can't even drape cleanly, causing them to stack like jeans. The sleeve pitch is off, but that can be fixed. The way they correct for your dropped shoulder seems odd as well. I've seen bespoke on people with dropped shoulders, and a good tailor is usually able to hide it quite well. I think this tailor makes it more obvious. I hope you're not paying too much for it. I'm not saying bespoke should be flawless, but I wouldn't be satisfied with this. I think it's time to find a new tailor.post #11279 of 372529/3/14 at 3:48ampost #11280 of 372529/3/14 at 4:40am
Well that's unfortunate, I was quite happy with it, and for what it's worth it's not that expensive. Can you be more specific where the problems are, with which piece and where? I'm still hoping for substantial changes with the db blazer. Like I said the tailor (I assume you mean the glen plaid) is going to widen the trousers more at the calves (+ the right thigh) and he reckons that's what's causing most of the bunching. I'm not too happy right now with the moleskin either, but I don't know how much of it is down to the fabric. Also I forgot to mention but the tailor already noted the sleeve pitch and will be fixing it.
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