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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) - Page 668

post #10006 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

On checks, for inspiration:


Maybe Greg can let us know what trousers he paired that day.

Gunclub and multi-thread plaids and checks are quite easy to pair actually. Or maybe I'm just lazy. Besides going for the SF darling of grey pants in all situations, I feel that navy trousers (especially cotton) play that role for cool color jackets/shirts (particularly anything in the grey tones). Brown cotton pants are also an easy go-to choice for anything in warm colors.

But, coming back to checks, the easiest is to look at the colors of the threads in the check and simply use trousers in any of those colors + derivations of those in lighter and darker tinges. Some of those choices may be more adventurous than other but nearly all will work from an aesthetic perspective. Only thing I would stay away from in that construct would be trousers in the same color as the dominant thread of the check - so here for example, do not wear with the same tinge of beige as the dominant beige in the coat. But a darker or lighter would be fine. Grey and brown, as represented in the check, would be great matches too - in a range of shades.
post #10007 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mktitsworth View Post

I agree about the 42R, but I disagree about the two Eidos pieces. The jacket falls okay but has no shape - the chest is too full and simply makes the guy look like he lost just enough weight. The blobbiness around the middle can probably (and only to a certain extent) be dealt with by a good alterations tailor, but nothing is going to help the chest look as if it was made for anything other than a mannequin.

Thanks very much for your feedback. It's interesting you mention the chest fullness because it's honestly something I cannot see yet, but the eidos jackets definitely feel less roomy than the navy suit jacket. The boxiness and lack of shape, though, are now apparent to me and I'll have to decide if I can live with the imperfection at this point in my sartorial learning.

If you wouldn't mind clarifying one point for me - when you say the cut is wrong, do you mean generally this suit does not fit my body type, or is it just too small and sizing up might fix some of the problem in the chest (if not create a new problem of not fitting in the shoulders).
post #10008 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

How about SuitShop? Cheaper than P Johnson but still MTM.

 

As for the shoulder question, I'm not sure what you mean by "natural" shoulder. I was under the impression that the vast majority of suits have "natural" shoulders, with the other main options being roped, and unstructured. Perhaps you mean spalla camicia, which to me is still a type of natural shoulder.

 

You might also consider asking this question on the Australian Members thread. 

I've had a few things made at SuitShop in Melbourne, and Matt and I agreed that my shoulders would benefit from a shoulder without padding (Sorry for the confusion - this is what I mean by a natural shoulder, and may be mistaken when doing so). However, I'm told that SuitShop isn't able to make suits/jackets without padding yet, as the factory isn't up to scratch in that regard.

post #10009 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by V1KTA222 View Post


Thanks very much for your feedback. It's interesting you mention the chest fullness because it's honestly something I cannot see yet, but the eidos jackets definitely feel less roomy than the navy suit jacket. The boxiness and lack of shape, though, are now apparent to me and I'll have to decide if I can live with the imperfection at this point in my sartorial learning.

If you wouldn't mind clarifying one point for me - when you say the cut is wrong, do you mean generally this suit does not fit my body type, or is it just too small and sizing up might fix some of the problem in the chest (if not create a new problem of not fitting in the shoulders).

 

I don't think it fits your body type that well. Taking in the waist my help though. I've posted this before, but here's my jacket in the same cut, for comparison:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #10010 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by mktitsworth View Post

I agree about the 42R, but I disagree about the two Eidos pieces. The jacket falls okay but has no shape - the chest is too full and simply makes the guy look like he lost just enough weight. The blobbiness around the middle can probably (and only to a certain extent) be dealt with by a good alterations tailor, but nothing is going to help the chest look as if it was made for anything other than a mannequin.

Mkt: by "full" do you mean that the chest looks a bit big for him, too roomy and in that way a bit "flat"? I can see that.

I also suspect that this would work fine for the OP in the real world if he can get a bit more shaping in the waist. There may be cuts that are more flattering, though, and perhaps he should bide his time?

OP where's the navy suit from? Pic of jacket in better light, 42R?
post #10011 of 37396
MF
It could be that he's a 40 or 41L in that cut. I prefer the length in the eidos suit. You can see the difference in how you two fill out the chest. I'm surprise that your waist looks more suppressed but perhaps that's an artifact of still photo and/or how you fill out the chest?
post #10012 of 37396
I read @sugarbutchs comment as "keep the hell away" from the Eidos jackets, and agreed whole-heartedly. To find that he actually meant keep them, emphatically, has me confused. I'm with @mktitsworth on this one.
post #10013 of 37396
This last set of exchanges is going to confuse the OP who came for advice. I don't see why a very negative reaction is warranted. He got a good deal on a well made jacket with excellent credential and there are positive aspects if the jacket

Take the 42L from what we can see L flatters more than R at hips)

The shoulders are clean
The length is good
The stance is good
The quarters open enough.
The lapels lie straight down

The waist needs some shape and the main issue now is the chest. It could be a bit big for him in the chest (cf MFs damned ejidos jacket smile.gif ).

It would be good to see side and back shots.

The advice I'd give him is that it might be too big in chest or at least doesn't flatter and it has no shape in waist. There are limits to how this can be addressed, but will it matter to him in the end outside if this venue? If not then take to tailor and see what can be done and then decide. I think a bit of suppression in waist by a good tailor will do wonders bringing it closer to MFs fit. After that the op should bench press a bit ( see earlier noodles discussion).

My two cents
Edited by TweedyProf - 8/10/14 at 6:24am
post #10014 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by V1KTA222 View Post

Hi Noodlers,

Looking for some more fit advice.

First, in my quest to find a staple navy suit, here is where I'm at:  
42R on Left, 42L on Right (Click to show)






Thinking the 42R is a good starting point. Would need to take it in slightly in the waist (both trouser and jacket).

Also, I was able to get the following Eidos pieces from Bloomingdales.  Neither fit a staple that I'm looking for, but the price was right.  Should I keep them? If so, what are your suggestions for shirt and tie pairings?
Eidos Jacket and Suit (Click to show)
AppleMark


AppleMark


AppleMark


42R is the better option.

I'd keep the Eidos if I were you and nip it in the waist a little. They fit you well for RTW and the discount helps. The issue that is getting confused is if this is the optimal cut for your body type. I'd say you'd look better with something more structured and extended to balance out your hips like the one you are wearing above the eidos.
post #10015 of 37396
Agree with Kulata on an issue not touched upon. The 42L is a better length and it makes a difference to the overall shape. The R accentuates the hips in a not as flattering way (slight pear). On eidos, if on or the other, then on fit alone, go with the 42L.
post #10016 of 37396

Yep, nip it in the waist and spend a couple of months in the gym and you'll see a huge difference. It does look a bit short though, but that might be the angle.

post #10017 of 37396
Sup, tits?
post #10018 of 37396
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post

Agree with Kulata on an issue not touched upon. The 42L is a better length and it makes a difference to the overall shape. The R accentuates the hips in a not as flattering way (slight pear). On eidos, if on or the other, then on fit alone, go with the 42L.
I think you misunderstood me. The extension I was referring to is in the shoulders but the jacket could use 0.5 inches or so in length but hey this is RTW though, so I am really not bothered with the slightly short length, not a deal breaker for me.


And I'll repeat my mantra. 10-15 body weight pull ups if you are going to be buying RTW biggrin.gif
post #10019 of 37396
Ah I see. Still the long looks better.
post #10020 of 37396

Wow, Bloomingdales charges $260 for shipping a suit to the UK, not including any customs duties. That's probably the most expensive I've ever seen.

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