How did young men dress in an age of elegance? This Laurence Fellows illustration from Brooks Brothers, published in Vogue, August 15, 1926 has these recommendations for children aged 14, 12, 10, 8, and 6. "At fourteen years, the dignity of the long-trousered suit may be achieved in grey flannel or tweed. The suit for the younger man of twelve years still has short trousers, here in brown herring-bone tweed." The 14 year old's suit has a vest.
Brooks Brothers in the December 1, 1948 issue of Vogue has this advice for a young man's black tie. The first dinner jacket should be purchased at 15 or 16, in a single-breasted, peak label (not a shawl label). The fabric is a dress worsted wool, available in either black or Duke of Windsor midnight blue. The recommended shirt, surprisingly, is not cotton but plain white linen with a pleated bosom. The ensemble is completed with a black silk twill tie pointed at the ends, plain black silk socks, black or white dress braces, and patent leather oxfords or pumps. The first tailcoat should be purchased by the first year of college with a white, single-breasted cotton marcella vest, a stached neckband shirt, and a detachable wing collar.
For daytime wear, no student would be complete without a brown wool herringbone sack suit, single-breasted and unpadded, grey flannel trousers, a grey tweed jacket, and cashmere sweaters from Scotland.
From the same 1948 article:
A cashmere sweater in a surprisingly trim fit for Brooks:
Note the high rise on the evening trousers.
The rise on the trousers has to be high to lengthen the line of the legs, to give the impression of height, and to cover the waistband behind the vest (illustrated using a picture from outside the article):
A young man tries on his first dinner jacket:
A college student's first tailcoat. Brooks did not allow tails to be sold to minors:
A young man puts on a sack suit jacket.
Though the young man above is rolling his shoulders, with the natural shouldered suit, there are no large, stiff, unsightly folds of fabric that are bunching up, unlike in the modern picture below.
Edited by CrimsonSox - 11/10/13 at 7:01am