Jacket - Lapel width - Gorge height - Real or false lapel buttonhole - Button stance (high, normal, low) - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low) - Shoulder padding - Armholes (tight, normal, loose) - Sleeve taper/circumference - Real or false sleeve buttonholes - Number of sleeve buttons - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing" - Jetted or flapped pockets - Single, double, or no vents - Jacket length (long, normal, short) - Inside pockets (up to you) Many of these options depend on your own body shape. Trousers (lot more simple) - Button or zipper fly - Pockets (on the seam or slightly angled) - Rear pockets (both buttoned, one buttoned) - Fork height (tight, normal, loose) - Leg taper - Leg width - Cuffed (height of cuff) or plain - Single, double, or no pleats, forward or reverse - Square latch, latch with button loop (that thing above the fly that closes the rest, I don't know the proper name for it) - Belt loops or brace buttons ... and that's all I can think of right from the top of my head. Edit: You might want to consider the silhouette that's best for you. You can use a RTW suit that you like as a base model. Your first suit probably won't have EVERYTHING you want it to have, simply because 1) you forget some detail or fail to prompt for it, or 2) the guy making it forgets or fails to ask. Communication is KEY. Guidelines I use: I'm short. I'm thin. My jacket therefore has the following: - Lapel width: A little more than half the space between the edge of the "V" and the shoulder seam - Gorge height: Very high - Real or false lapel buttonhole: Real (of course!
- Button stance (high, normal, low): High two-button, with the topmost button a little above my natural waist. - Breast pocket height (high, normal, low): Normal, but my next one will be a quarter-inch higher because I'm picky. - Shoulder padding: Minimal. - Armholes (tight, normal, loose): Tight, meaning high. - Sleeve taper/circumference: More so than usual, thanks to my thin wrists. - Real or false sleeve buttonholes: Real. But this is entirely up to you. I chose real because I think the false ones look a bit too goofy, or at least the way they make false ones over here. - Number of sleeve buttons: 4, but this has nothing to do with my body shape. - Sleevel buttons normal or "kissing": Same here, nothing to do with my body shape. But I like kissing buttons. - Jetted or flapped pockets: Flapped, because that's what Flusser recommends and because I sort of like them. - Single, double, or no vents: I always go double. The vents end right at the height of my pockets. - Jacket length (long, normal, short): Short. I hate how longer jackets make me look. - Inside pockets (up to you): I don't use them much for anything. I think I have two regular buttoned pockets, one pen pocket, and one for a cell phone or something. Remember: If you're getting a short, fitted jacket, get pants that either break lightly or rest on the top of your shoe. If you're going for a more roomy fit, get roomier trousers with a larger break. Nothing is more awkward than seeing a guy with a roomy jacket wearing rail-thin trousers. The whole idea is to make the transition from jacket to trousers a consistent one.