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Friday WAYWRN Challenge: CM does SWD. - Page 12

Poll Results: MC does SWD

Poll expired: Nov 4, 2013 This is a multiple choice poll
  • 7% (12)
    Holdfast
  • 8% (14)
    UrbanComposition
  • 18% (31)
    NOBD
  • 0% (0)
    luv2breformed
  • 1% (2)
    Orgetorix
  • 14% (25)
    Mr. Moo
  • 2% (4)
    Digmenow
  • 31% (54)
    EFV
  • 8% (15)
    timotune
  • 3% (6)
    Cotton Dockers
  • 0% (1)
    Rick's Tailoring
  • 3% (6)
    Sprezziamo
  • 0% (0)
    kulata
  • 25% (43)
    Kaplan
  • 21% (36)
    in stitches
  • 1% (3)
    Caustic Man
  • 22% (38)
    Pingson
  • 2% (4)
    bourbonbasted
  • 19% (33)
    gdl203
  • 37% (64)
    Tirailleur1
  • 1% (2)
    Kai
  • 13% (23)
    SpooPoker
  • 7% (13)
    Claghorn
  • 1% (2)
    Coxsackie
  • 7% (13)
    FlyingMonkey
171 Total Votes  
post #166 of 431

The only black shoes I have are captoe bluchers and oxfords. I figured both would be too formal for the look. I have noticed that few people wear brown shoes in WAYWT. Mostly gray, black, or white.

post #167 of 431

Good suggestions re: SWD / CM crossover, so long as it doesn't end up becoming another split.

 

I tried to take pics of what I'm wearing today but I'm a terrible photographer when it comes to taking pictures of myself, so I'll think about what to do about this later...

post #168 of 431
Thats a thing too. I see great pics of mediocre fits getting a lot of thumbs sometimes and vice versa.
Oh well, life aint fair.
post #169 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crat View Post

MCC or SWD? I think there are mishaps in both. MCC has seem to become overly Dad-ish imo. (or was it always like that?)
SW&D has stuff i just dont 'get' (Goth Ninja) but also some very aesthetically pleasing non-MC fits.

yeah, i think our convo got spliced. i was talking about MC CW. certainly there are mishaps everywhere, but as far as a mishap due to a fit being in no mans land, i find that happens in MC CW most often. where is in MC WAYWRN or SWD WAYWT the mishaps are just mishaps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirailleur1 View Post

I might go with this instead...  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


like this better. DAT SMIRK!!

--

clags, i like that, and thought of doing something similar, but i decided i did not want to do a fit with dress trousers for this challenge. too close to MC for me. ymmv as there are plenty of dress trousers in SWD, including parkers recent masterpiece, but i felt for this i wanted to try without.
post #170 of 431

Kin Julien the shoes are YSL

 

 

and yeah Clags I like the Derbies, But u could have entered gawd status with some Raf era Jil Sander Derbies. 

post #171 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


clags, i like that, and thought of doing something similar, but i decided i did not want to do a fit with dress trousers for this challenge. too close to MC for me. ymmv as there are plenty of dress trousers in SWD, including parkers recent masterpiece, but i felt for this i wanted to try without.

SWD seems to be far more about how the clothes fit and the way in which individual pieces interact than the actual nature of individual pieces. Except for something like a tie (and even then), I'm not sure a SWD-MC dichotomy works with regards to the nature of clothes. There are many things which are not CM, but there are few things which are not SWD. 

post #172 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai View Post

Jeans: Pure Blue Japan
Linen Shirt: Luxire
Fair Isle Sweater: William Fox & Sons
Jacket: Barbour
Boots: Shell Cordovan Wolverine 1000 Mile
Fair Isle Socks: Chup
Watch: Seiko SARN
Sunglasses: Hackett

 

I don't think I've ever seen anyone so unhappy to be posting their pictures on a men's fashion forum.

post #173 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

SWD seems to be far more about how the clothes fit and the way in which individual pieces interact than the actual nature of individual pieces. Except for something like a tie (and even then), I'm not sure a SWD-MC dichotomy works with regards to the nature of clothes. There are many things which are not CM, but there are few things which are not SWD. 

i dont quite agree. there are less things that are inherently not SWD than there are things that are inherently not MC, but there are still lots of things that are not SWD. (dress trousers not being one of those things, this is a separate point)

either way, while i have nothing against dress trousers here, and while i agree that dress trousers are not at all uncommon in SWD, and your fit is very nice, i will still say that they are by far the minority of pants one sees in SWD. and of the dress trousers one sees in SWD, by far most are not the type of dress trousers you see in MC, like the ones you are wearing.

to be clear, i am in no way hating on your fit. it looks very good, and i was inclined to do something very similar. i am just stating that personally i decided i wanted to do something for this challenge without any MC items. i might fail my face off, but i wanted to stick with items that are more organically SWD. not items that are more organically MC, but could work in a SWD fit.
post #174 of 431

I tend to agree with Stitches here.

 

One thing that SW&D is much bigger on than CM is the notion of 'silhouette'. It's not that things 'fit' in the CM way, but that they create a harmonious or interesting line either when static or in motion. Parker's recent fit was so superb precisely because of the line created from the jacket, down the pressed flaired trousers to the particular form of the shoes. Of course, the quality of the individual ingredients and the coherence created by the subtle variation of colour were also important, but it was all about silhouette or line. To use a CM reference, it produced the kind of feeling that you get looking at those exagerated 1930s Apparel Arts pictures with their stretched, impossible elegance. CM does consider these issues but in much more restricted ways - shoulders and waist suppression on jackets, tapering on trousers, but very little attention is given to the concept of silhouette overall.

 

The motion thing is interesting too - hardly any attention is given in CM to what clothes look or feel like in motion, with the exception of the oft-discussed way in which bespoke coats should hold to the collar when in motion. Yohji Yamamoto's clothes, mentioned above, really have to be seen in motion to appreciate just how good a designer he is.

 

None of this is to say that SW&D's enthusiasm for certain fits is unarguable. I find some of the things that are liked a lot, very dull and repetitive. But then, the same is true in CM. However I think things can be learned both ways.


Edited by FlyingMonkey - 10/31/13 at 8:24pm
post #175 of 431

The idea of motion is interesting. On one hand, it's impractical for a forum where one posts pictures. On the other hand, it's far more applicable to real life, where one is rarely static. There is a great gif of the shah showing off his his pants in motion. There are a number of little things about CM that seem ill suited for looking good in motion. Narrow trouser openings, for one thing. Jackets without drape as well. On the other hand, dropcrotch pants also seem like they would look very poor in motion.

 

Other than the tie, I'm struggling to think of anything which is strictly CM and not also held, in some form, as part of SW&D. Even the suit, in the form of Yohji, carries over to SW&D. Perhaps certain types of shoes...

post #176 of 431
There's this from SZ (an artisanal oriented forum) - it's too big to be embedded in SF.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/shuitsang/Cinemagraph/hires.gif

vs

the static pics (which are already quite good at conveying motion IMO)





There's also some other gifs that people have posted here too over the years, some Yohji-esque, some more conservative.

Then you have people like me who take cell phone pics - sometimes in a mirror, sometimes from a makeshift stand on a desk with a timer.
post #177 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

Other than the tie, I'm struggling to think of anything which is strictly CM and not also held, in some form, as part of SW&D. Even the suit, in the form of Yohji, carries over to SW&D. Perhaps certain types of shoes...

 

Yes, but there's much more than that. There's a whole streetwear suits etc. thread in which you'll see that contemporary variations on the suit in the streetwear context, run the range from the very narrow mod-influenced type, through things that would not seem out of place in CM, to Yohji-types of deconstructed suits or suit-influenced clothing. Yohji is way out there, even for SW&D. It's not some kind of everyday thing (for the vast majority of people). Shoes too.

 

It's not that certain 'things' are bad or good. Ties can also be fine in SW&D contexts: for example, I would bet that most of Tirailleur's forthcoming line will not be worn by CM-type people, although I hope that some do (I will certainly be buying some!). It's about those contexts, how things are put together and why - and more than that, it's about the foundations of how and why you dress. Basically, you know that whole Vox 'town and country' guide to how to dress for beginners? That is completely irrelevent to SW&D. That's not to say that both CM and SW&D would not come to the same conclusions about a particular fit - but a suit fit would be judged in SW&D not in how much it conformed to basic principles and rules derived from historical norms, but whether it looked good* in itsself, however it conformed or didn't, to any particular set of external rules.

 

*As to how you judge what 'looks good', aesthetics is a minefield, but it's not just 'I like this and you like that'. Some people do seem to just have a naturally better eye, but for most of us it's about training our eye, the first step of which is to get past the cultural or personal blockages of 'that looks weird' or ' I couldn't wear that to the office'...

post #178 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post



Spoo Chainz

what. da. fuck.
post #179 of 431
Zoro FTW.

Clags, its not about weather or not an item in general is strictly MC and not SWD. Dress trousers, a tailored jacket, a conservative tie, dress shoes, dress shirts... Yes all of these things can be worked into a SWD fit, but that does not make them SWD items. And for the most part, most "dress" items that are truly SWD gear are not cut or styled or textured in the same way that that same "dress" item would be if it were an MC item.

Lets take your pants for example. Could one insert them into Parkers fit I have quoted below? Sure. But it would not have nearly the same effect as the pants he is wearing. They are both dress pants, they are both gray, but he is wearing SWD dress trousers and you are wearing MC dress trousers.

Again, there is nothing wrong with that. I am merely stating, that for this challenge, I personally felt it would be more of a challenge to me, not to wear any items that are in any way MC items that also happen to be workable in an SWD fit. Rather, I wanted to try and stick with items that are in essence made and styled to be SWD items.

So if one says, dress trousers are also SWD gear, that is not untrue, but its not telling the whole story. At least that is how I see it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

speaking of pants, wearing flares today

photo prkr1030_zps6b201b64.jpg


temple du jawnz lamb A2
roberto collina merino tneck
ww chan bespoke flannels (70s cop cut)
vassh boots
post #180 of 431
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

what. da. fuck.

you heard me.
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