I have read about changes in recent years at Armani. Any up-to-date information on EA suit construction quality? How it measures up against Collezione? Fused? Canvassed? According to their site, they are all currently made in Italy. Any up-to-date info would be appreciated.
Emporio Armani Suit Quality?
So you would say that this poster was misinformed? (first post on this link)
Probably just out of date; it's from over 3 years ago.
OTR Rank as of 2013:
1. Armani Black Label - Canvassed (retails for close to 5k)
2. Armani black label - Fused (retails for $2-4k)
3. Collezioni MTM - Half Canvass
4. OTR Collezioni - Fused
5. Emporio - Fused
one of the sales person at EA said the suits are canvased... I tried their suits on and they fit amazing. My EA suit from 3 years ago still look new. Someone please let me the long term test for these suit?
If you are buying a fashion suit you must treat it as such. Wear it once a week for about 30-40 weeks and then buy a new season version. If you wear it once a month you'll get 3-4 years out of it.
All that aside, if the fit and styling is to your liking, buy the suit. I have fused suits that have held up just fine for years. I just wish I'd known what I know now so I could have made a more educated purchase back then and understood the value proposition or lack thereof.
The fit of a suit is a very different thing from the quality of a suit.
A suit can be stitched entirely by hand (in an extreme example) and fit you like a sack. A suit can be entirely machine-stitched, with a glued/fused chestpiece, and yet fit you very well.
The fit of a suit is a subjective thing, as it not only depends on your shape, but also upon your preferences as some people like a tight-fitting suit, others like a more relaxed fit.
The quality of a suit is an objective thing, determined by the fabric used and the way that the suit is constructed.
Keep in mind that most on this forum would say that Z Zegna, Armani Collezioni, YSL and similar suits are "that bad" simply because they are fused. The suit may look great and depending on your usage, can hold up very well. But they are suits that are made with a cheaper production technique because it is cheaper and many customers are just looking for a great looking garment. If you wear a fused EA suit a handful of times a year, you will likely look more stylish and make a greater impression than someone who might have a very nice fully canvassed suit that just doesn't happen to have much flair or isn't particularly age-appropriate to the wearer. My point is that they're only "that bad" from a tailor's POV. Aside from subtle lapel roll and draping there are very few stylistic benefits to a canvassed suit. ALMOST everyone you see on the street, who appear stylish or not is wearing a fused suit. Just remember to dry clean SPARINGLY. Maybe once a year if possible.
I won an action for a used Emporio Armani suit on ebay for a mere $100. I thought why not. Everyone is right on the money with their opinions. Incredible cut and silhouette. The actual construction though is extremely cheap. The Polo blue labels I own put it to shame in that regards. Completely fused, and the fabric used is just ok. One of those 80 wool/20 polyester blends. The fit though, the best I've ever worn. Would never pay retail or anywhere close to that for one.
Emporio Armani - Rubbish Quality Suits
My first 'big name' suit purchase was an Emporio Armani in 2006. It was fantastic quality. Great fit - excellent quality and durable with that feel of luxury. That experience led me to purchase two more. However the next two 'Made in Italy' EA suits bought in 2010 and in particular 2012 were abysmal. The quality had simply vanished. The construction no longer had the feel of luxury and quality as the earlier suit.
Obviously, cost cutting and profit maximisation were a priority. Even little things like the labels and linings felt cheaper. The hanger and suit bag provided were very cheap and basic compared to the earlier suit (which had felt finish on the hanger and a thicker canvas like material for the bag (with carry handle)).
Back to the construction and quality of the suits....I paid approximately $900 AUD for each suit (40 - 50% off full price on sale) and what I got was:
1) Fused construction that bubbled across the front of the jacket (I only wear my suits once a week, resting them on their hangers afterwards. The jacket was never subjected to high temperatures, humidity or anything that would break down the glues used in the construction of the jacket). It was dry cleaned once only by a reputable dry cleaner I have been using for years for all my other suits.
2) The 96% wool, 4% elastane fabric began to deteriorate. Buttons could be pulled away from the trouser material almost like chewing gun from a park bench
3) Tacky EA branded gloss buttons
4) Frayed/loose threads everywhere
5) An unwearable, shoddy suit after only 3 years
Please don't be seduced by the brand name. I would strongly recommend you to find a reputable made to measure tailor that can guarantee canvassed construction and help you choose a quality fabric for your budget. The suit will most definitely fit better and more than likely be superior in quality to any of the big names can offer with their massed produced, off-the-rack drivel.
Fabric is stretching and pulling apart like chewing gum
Note the frayed thread on the glossy EA button
96% wool, 4% elastane - Made in Italy
100% fused and delaminating
Obvious from 10 feet away
Made in Italy 'David Line' by Emporio Armani