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Tailor for a Brioni in Seattle

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 

Hey there everyone, I'm a long time reader and first time poster.  I have been introduced, in my time here, to some of the most amazing insights in fashion. Seriously, the people here have helped me better understand quality and refinement in clothing and more importantly how to buy clothing that may cost more up front but has value for a lifetime.  I can only honestly and from my heart thank you all.  What I have also come to in my time here is to really appreciate the opinions and insights which can be had here and I find myself in the situation of needing those opinions.

I have recently have been handed down a couple of beautiful Brioni suits.  I really didn't realize how nice they were until I studied Brioni's here. I was told never to let a tailor touch them who hadn't heard of a Brioni before.  This was really sound advice but I didn't realize the half of it until researching here on what made an amazing suit amazing.  My problem is now that, these suits were made and tailored for a person with my same frame, but heavier then me and I need them altered and maybe tailored for me.  I am of course super nervous about who to bring them to in Seattle.  I don't want to experiment and ruin a good suit that I could wear for the rest of my life.  I've compiled a small list of possibilities and I've called them all and the only one which instilled confidence was the first.  I really would love some insight for the experts here.  My main concerns is quality and secondarily cost.  I know that's a hard combo, but I need to know the person can do the work, and I'm not getting ripped off for it.

 

My list:

 

Gian Decaro  (he knew what he was talking about and seemed excited to work with me, I also hear he's the tailor for Bill Gates, so I don't know that I can afford a piece of that)

 

Mario's Custom Tailoring  (all I know is they can be flaky but I'm not in a rush)

 

Mahriras  (They have people that say they are good and do bespoke, but just because you can make a bespoke suit, does that mean you can do a good job altering a Brioni?)

 

Adams Tailoring and Alterations  (There is a review saying a person had brought a Kiton and Brioni suit here, but what I can't tell is if the person who brought it there could tell if they ruined the suits or not)

 

Superb Custom Tailors (They say they can do all quality suit levels)

 

There is a guy in Bellevue that I brought one Brioni suit to, he was well regarded and considered very good.  He was affordable but I think I didn't know enough at the time to really understand what he had done to the suit and the things he did do I felt may have been taking advantage of my lack of knowledge.  For example he told me I should be replaceing the buttons on the suit with some other buttons because he said it had come a different way and tried to keep the ones that had come off the suit.  I don't know if it's common practice but I sure felt like it wasn't what should be going on and I went back a couple days later to ask for them back.  (He'll prob never have me back anyway)

 

I would really appreciate any insight you can share.  I am really new to to owning a good quality suit and I really don't want to get either taken advantage of or end up with a destroyed suit.  Thank you all so much in advance.

post #2 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by truthancisco View Post

Hey there everyone, I'm a long time reader and first time poster.  I have been introduced, in my time here, to some of the most amazing insights in fashion. Seriously, the people here have helped me better understand quality and refinement in clothing and more importantly how to buy clothing that may cost more up front but has value for a lifetime.  I can only honestly and from my heart thank you all.  What I have also come to in my time here is to really appreciate the opinions and insights which can be had here and I find myself in the situation of needing those opinions.
I have recently have been handed down a couple of beautiful Brioni suits.  I really didn't realize how nice they were until I studied Brioni's here. I was told never to let a tailor touch them who hadn't heard of a Brioni before.  This was really sound advice but I didn't realize the half of it until researching here on what made an amazing suit amazing.  My problem is now that, these suits were made and tailored for a person with my same frame, but heavier then me and I need them altered and maybe tailored for me.  I am of course super nervous about who to bring them to in Seattle.  I don't want to experiment and ruin a good suit that I could wear for the rest of my life.  I've compiled a small list of possibilities and I've called them all and the only one which instilled confidence was the first.  I really would love some insight for the experts here.  My main concerns is quality and secondarily cost.  I know that's a hard combo, but I need to know the person can do the work, and I'm not getting ripped off for it.

My list:

Gian Decaro  (he knew what he was talking about and seemed excited to work with me, I also hear he's the tailor for Bill Gates, so I don't know that I can afford a piece of that)

Mario's Custom Tailoring  (all I know is they can be flaky but I'm not in a rush)

Mahriras  (They have people that say they are good and do bespoke, but just because you can make a bespoke suit, does that mean you can do a good job altering a Brioni?)

Adams Tailoring and Alterations  (There is a review saying a person had brought a Kiton and Brioni suit here, but what I can't tell is if the person who brought it there could tell if they ruined the suits or not)

Superb Custom Tailors (They say they can do all quality suit levels)

There is a guy in Bellevue that I brought one Brioni suit to, he was well regarded and considered very good.  He was affordable but I think I didn't know enough at the time to really understand what he had done to the suit and the things he did do I felt may have been taking advantage of my lack of knowledge.  For example he told me I should be replaceing the buttons on the suit with some other buttons because he said it had come a different way and tried to keep the ones that had come off the suit.  I don't know if it's common practice but I sure felt like it wasn't what should be going on and I went back a couple days later to ask for them back.  (He'll prob never have me back anyway)

I would really appreciate any insight you can share.  I am really new to to owning a good quality suit and I really don't want to get either taken advantage of or end up with a destroyed suit.  Thank you all so much in advance.

Manu Mahiras has retired.

I was going to suggest Siegfried Hartmann in Bellevue but perhaps you already met him.

Give De Caro a try. I doubt he'd do anything too radical.
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks Coburn! My fear is the horror sorry I read here about someone who ended up paying Decaro 600 to get a suit shortened. While I don't have anything that I think needs that much work, those seem like pretty expensive alterations...Or maybe I just don't understand how much things like this cost.
post #4 of 13
One thing at a time. Have alterations done on lesser garments before letting a tailor work on one of those Brioni suits. An article about how to predict tailoring quality has been in the works for months and should be ready soon.
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
I would love to see even a rough Draft of that document! I really have no idea what I'm looking for. My second best suit would be a Lauren Ralph Lauren, that won't tell me anything I think.
post #6 of 13
The brand of the suit is irrelevant to both getting alterations and the value the suit has to you. If it doesn't fit you, it might as well be a zero-value goodwill sack suit. There is nothing particularly sophisticated or distinguished about the tailoring of a Brioni, especially one that wasn't tailored for you. I say all this not to be harsh, but so you will avoid getting ripped off when you go about this process. My advice is go with the true bespoke tailors, they will obviously have the most skill... I think there's one more in Belltown you didn't list.

Good luck finding a place in Seattle to wear a suit after 5 pm wink.gif
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
Gosh is that true Svenn? I know a good portion of the lining is hand picked silk on a Brioni. Am I being naive in thinking that not everyone is good working with that combo. I had gotten the impression that certain aspectd of the hands picking took more skill then others, and although a before tailor would definitely be able to make a fantastic fully canvased suit, they may not be as familiar with how to work with some finer material combos. I ask you honestly, because this is the crux of my challenge. I just don't know enough about what it takes to be a mate tailor and some one that is good at alterations.

I for finding a place after 5 to wear a suit in Seattle you are 100 % right! It's a shame too. Heck I always feel overdressed at the Symphony.

Who is Bellevue's bespoke person, Sieg fried?
post #8 of 13
You asking about Bellevue or Belltown?
Siegfried is in Bellevue.
There's also Kuhlman in Belltown.
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Oops sorry for the mistake. Yeah I did miss Kuhlman. I'll give them a call too.
post #10 of 13
Most custom tailors should be able to do the work. It comes down to communication and attitude. An "All work is final" sign indicates the tailor probably doesn't care much about doing things right. Another possibility is that the suit could not be made to fit well - some tailors might not realize or admit that. If the jacket fits well in the shoulders and chest and is close to the right length and the pants aren't more than 2 inches too big at the waist and have adequate length, the operation likely is very doable. Posting pictures would be an easy way to predict that. Don't rush into things.
post #11 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by truthancisco View Post

Gosh is that true Svenn? I know a good portion of the lining is hand picked silk on a Brioni. Am I being naive in thinking that not everyone is good working with that combo. I had gotten the impression that certain aspectd of the hands picking took more skill then others, and although a before tailor would definitely be able to make a fantastic fully canvased suit, they may not be as familiar with how to work with some finer material combos. I ask you honestly, because this is the crux of my challenge. I just don't know enough about what it takes to be a mate tailor and some one that is good at alterations.

I for finding a place after 5 to wear a suit in Seattle you are 100 % right! It's a shame too. Heck I always feel overdressed at the Symphony.

Who is Bellevue's bespoke person, Sieg fried?

You're right to be concerned. Use of non Brioni silk picking techniques could cause the suit to catch fire. This is a leading cause of death in some corners of Italy.
post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by manchambo View Post

You're right to be concerned. Use of non Brioni silk picking techniques could cause the suit to catch fire. This is a leading cause of death in some corners of Italy.

Hey, I dont know enough to be concerned or not, its why I asked. smile.gif
post #13 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by truthancisco View Post

Hey, I dont know enough to be concerned or not, its why I asked. smile.gif

You're getting extraordinarily carried away. They are nice suits, but they are still suits. Fabric held together with thread by techniques within the ken of any tailor.

Now, of course, you should use a skilled tailor for any alteration so they do a good job. But it isn't a brand specific thing.
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